HK450 Build

[jmtyndall]

Alright, got started on my build today. Locktite-ing all my parts, setting up the tail and getting the head put together. One question, my align mainshafts came with a collar, that doesn't seem to be mentioned in the manual. There's a flat on the mainshaft. It's safe to assume that collar gets placed in that flat and a set screw goes in it, but there are two set screws. Do you use both or only one?

Also, it doesn't appear that I have any mainshaft shims. I assume these take out slop in an older design, and with this collar, I adjust its location to eliminate any vertical play in the mainshaft?

[Send Money]

Align Pro mainshafts have a collar welded on and require shims to adjust play; others have the separate collar and don't need shims, just move the collar and tighten it in place. If there are 2 holes in the collar, use both set screws. The main shafts and the holes drilled in them are not symmetrical. There's a top and a bottom end. The Align shafts have the name Align printed on them, and the part with the name goes downward.

Funny that you remarked that you don't know what you don't know. I think we all learn from building kits instead of buying RTF helis. That way we have a better idea what to do to make repairs later.

[jmtyndall]

That's what I was hoping... and I'm learning even more from an incomplete kit.

Sounds like I have the wrong mainshaft. This kit is a pro v1 clone. And I have the "sport" main shaft. Should I exchange them? Does the smaller collar make a difference in pitch travel? It seems like the bolt on collar is a better solution, so there must be a reason they decided to change for the pro

[Send Money]

I have a Sport (Version 1) and a Pro (Version 1), and an old Trex SE-V1 clone, all flybarred, and the same Sport collared mainshaft works with all 3. If you use a first gen FBL head with the follower arms like in your picture, the Sport collared shaft should also work. If you use a DFC head you need a shorter mainshaft though. I think the reason for the welded-on collar on the Pro shaft was to make more room for the swash plate to move downward. Probably not a factor for most of us.

[jmtyndall]

Oh then I'll use what I have instead of exchanging. All the mainshafts on hobby king have the collar. I only plan to run +/- 10 or 11 degrees anyways

[bgymr]

When building the TT version, be careful so the tail doesn't slide out on you. Once I figured this out on my HK450, it flies extremely well.

I put a screw into the torque tube from both gearboxes. The rear one is easy because there is a hole aready drilled by the tail fin. The front one I drilled the hole myself. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Do not put the screws into the tube past the thickness of hte TT. This will eventually sever your drive. Please be careful with this! Under such hard revolutions the shafts will bend in teh tube with the single bearing. Teh crews can easily be shimmed out with washers.

If you are not understanding what I just wrote, let me know and I will post pictures.

[jmtyndall]

I did notice the tailbox side has a hole, but doesn't come with a screw, I was going to look for a pin to put in there. Didn't think about doing one on the mainshaft side. I think I just need my servos to hurry up from Hong Kong, then figure out what blades to order. I was bored the other day and was going to balance my blades, when I noticed, one is a 315mm and one is a 325! The guy who sold me the kit really boned me.

[jmtyndall]

Got my servos in, and was going about installing them when I realized, I need to center them, but don't have a receiver yet. I'm planning to setup my ZYX-s with a satellite and dx6i. I'm just wondering, without an RX, can I just plug in power and the servos and have them center? or do I need a tx signal for them to center?

[bgymr]

You don't need a tx to center them. Put a horn on the servo and SLOWLY move it to it's end limit. A servo has just a bit more than 180 degrees of travel. When you can no longer move it, take your horn off, and put it just past the perpendicular line (longwise) of the servo. Then move it back as far as it will go. The horn now should be a few degrees past that perpendicular line again pm the opposite end. Now move back to the middle and that should be "about right". The fine tuning you will take care of once you fire up the zyx-s. Be aware that you will need a receiver to bind the satelite to the zyx.

You can use any receiver out of a car, boat, plane...anything to just center them as well.

[jmtyndall]

Good tip on centering them up. Got that done today. Tried to put the linkage balls on the servo horns with no luck. The holes on the horn are about half the size of the screw. Reamed one of the holes out to 1.5mm, but when I attempted to insert the screw, the end of the horn cracked

[jmtyndall]

Got back to it this morning, that link was bad, the others went fine drilled to 1.5mm.


Sanded down the anti-rotation bracket, as it was too stiff to allow easy movement of the swash. Now it moves very smooth. Got the servo arms and servos all installed and loctited. Except the tail. I was told the hk922 was a good tail servo, but it is WAY smaller than the servo mount. So I have to figure out if I'm going to order a bigger servo or make an adapter.

Found out my motor mount was upside-down. Turns out it goes in opposite of how the align manual shows it in order for the motor mesh to be correct. Then I found out my motor KV is too low for a 3s kit. So I'll have to add to my order list: Turnigy Typhoon 3550kv.

Had issues getting rid of the head slop with the Trex sport main shaft, and decided to try the pro mainshaft with the built in collar. Much better fit, but I need to pick up some shims for it because I do still have a few mm of vertical play.

Next big step is to order a receiver and satellite. Is there any reason, if I have both, that I shouldn't run them? I know the ZYX-S is capable of running on just the satellite.

[sp00fman]

Shims right here: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dproduct=12136

Don't get the typhoon motor. Its underpowered and has strange size bearings/shafts.
There are better ones out there.
What motor do you have? Perhaps you can just get a bigger pinion. I ran a 2800KV on 16T once and it was nice and quiet running for my first FF practice.


The Henge922 is a bare minimum for a tailservo. Chances are it wont get you past sports flying with it, sorry.
For a cheap but good one this works nice on my birds:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dproduct=23220
There are cheaper ones in that size but they just dont last. i have a pile of 6 of the other branded cheaspies here all with the motor burned, The 732MG is running on both my HK450's for over half a year now. not a hiccup.
Or get the 306HV servo (even faster), but that is the same size as the Henge922 and will need an adapter-plate for the PRO, or boom mount it.

[BladeScraper]

I'm running the Turnigy S306G-HV on the tail of my 450SE V2, switching from an Align DS410. Tail improvement is absolutely mind blowing. Tail no longer kicks with full collective punch.

[jmtyndall]

I grabbed the align shims at the lhs. Just as cheap, and don't have to wait.

The motor I have is 2900kv. Didn't think about a bigger pinion. I just want to maintain the ability to do flips, rolls, piro flips etc. Is there another motor you recommend? The typhoons seem to have gotten good reviews

Ill pick up one of those two tail servos. Didn't realize this one was a bare minimum servo

[sp00fman]

Both my 450 helis eventually settled on this motor. I'm still super happy with them.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_3700kv.html

They seem efficient, and depending on your lipo no tendency to bog. Did have to balance the bell and replace a bearing to get them super smooth,
Running one on a steel 12T (3000rpm governed) and the nightship on 11T (<3000 rpm v-curve throttle)

There is also the SK3. I have the 500 version on my bigger heli and is works well (monster power). If the 450 version is anything like it it will do just fine. Reviews are good so id say a good bet.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ize_heli_.html

Still, if your current 2900KV is a powerful enough motor just get the bigger pinion, or try a 4s pack.

[BladeScraper]

Originally Posted by jmtyndall

I grabbed the align shims at the lhs. Just as cheap, and don't have to wait.

The motor I have is 2900kv. Didn't think about a bigger pinion. I just want to maintain the ability to do flips, rolls, piro flips etc. Is there another motor you recommend? The typhoons seem to have gotten good reviews

Ill pick up one of those two tail servos. Didn't realize this one was a bare minimum servo

That's a low Kv motor, lol.

The Turnigy Typhoon 3500Kv is great. I am running a 15T pinion and 40A ESC and everything comes down barely warm.


Sent from my Blade mCP X BL using my Dx6i

[jmtyndall]

This is the motor I have. Only 500watts so I don't think it's powerful enough.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_2900KV.html

So I'll look at what you guys have linked. Why are you running the 15t, isn't 13 standard?

Got my blades today, cog and balanced them up. Got them pretty spot on. Is it worth balancing the tail?

[BladeScraper]

15T is for people who fly hard

The Typhoon 3550Kv would work with 13T, in fact that is what I had on it for a while. I just needed more power so I got the 15T. I think this is because the Kv is low-ish, so I need to compensate with pinions. Trust me, this motor has the torque to spin it with a 15T.


Sent from my Blade mCP X BL using my Dx6i

[jmtyndall]

Ahh okay. That makes sense. I dont need anything that crazy. The typhoon will fit my pinion that I have now, and is way lighter than the sk3, so ill probably stick with that

[BladeScraper]

yep. I had a Xtreme Spin 4400Kv in mine, but when I went to change the pinion it got stuck... I can spin the pinion on the shaft all day long, but no matter what I do I can't get the pinion to actually come off...