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Atom 6HV, 6HVU and 550 Ultimate Compass Atom 6HV, 6HVU and 550 Ultimate Model Helicopter Discussion |
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06-21-2011, 02:07 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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help with 6hv wiring
ive never had a heli that runs 2 lipos at once. what connectors do i need. im using the HW esc and WR herc bec. i know the bec runs off 1 lipo, but how do you connect it? sorry, im just new to this side of the hobby. all help is appreciated
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Synergy E7se 14s Compass 6hvU |
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06-21-2011, 06:04 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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As a newbie who just completed his 6HV and got it hovering without a hitch, i can vouch that it's pretty easy. You either just make a y-harness or buy one. I made one and it was no problem if your soldering skills are decent. Check this thread: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...ight=6hv+build
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06-21-2011, 09:10 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
You will have to make or buy a Y-harness (you can look them up for an idea of how to construct one yourself) and then either add in the parallel part or remove one of the legs of a purchased Y-harness and splice in your BEC connector. I can go snap some pics of mine real quick and show you about how it's done (for either BEC connection), but it will take me a few minutes to load them.
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Tim KBDD TEAM PILOT --Si vis pacem, para bellum-- |
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06-21-2011, 09:23 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Here are a couple of diagrams, both including the current Hobbywing implementation of the spark arrestor. The top one shows the BEC running off 6S and bottom one shows the BEC running off 12S. The spark arrestor connector is just a bullet connector. As Tim said, you could use any connector for the others; I used EC5s.
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Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people. Last edited by TheBum; 06-21-2011 at 10:34 PM.. |
06-21-2011, 10:09 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Here are a few pics of mine. After looking at the pics though, I don't think I showed much detail as to how it goes on the entire heli, so I'll try to explain with each photo.
Here's just the wiring harness. You can see the two Deans at the top. I CA'd the two end-to-end to hold them in place. I took some brass bars from a Traxxas connector and soldered on both sides of the + and - terminal of the backside of both plugs which is what make them in series. I then took the main leads and ran them down to the main female connector of the ESC at the bottom. You can also kinda see how I have it pig-tailed off in parallel for the BEC connector (smaller wires). Another view: This is how it connects to the main packs. Pretty simple on this end. Doesn't matter which battery cable goes where. I just like to lay them flat on the tops of the packs and then strap them down with the pack ties. Ok, this one shows pretty close the business end of the wiring harness. You can see the pig-tail for the BEC and how they are basically attached. THis is where some decent soldering skills come in handy because the heat-shrink can be a pain to manage, but will turn out nice if you take it slow. This is how the connector looks in use. I put a 180* bend in it so that way I have a decent amount of clearance for soldering and it looks pretty clean. This is basically how the wiring will look on the heli's side. Two male connectors, one each from the ESC and BEC. I ran the BEC leads through the frame because the leads were too short to reach any other way, even with the extensions I put on them, so they are semi-permanent like this (but I love how nice it looks [can't even see the wiring!]) so I just went with it. You could run the two BEC wires through one frame side opening to make it removable later on. I just figure I'll cut it out because the only time it'll ever come out is if I wreck the frame to begin with. And then last, but not least....Here are the wires just before being attached (couldn't fully attach because I didn't want it to go live). The BEC lead gets plugged in first to power the RX and FBL unit. Once they fire up, I plug in the ESC to make that go hot. After that, slap on the canopy and go wild! The nicest feature of doing it like this is being able to just plug in only one lead at a time, so in case you need to do an RX op-check, you totally leave the motor off and no need to un-plug motor wires or fuss with that part of your heli. They go on and off in much the same procedure as powering your TX, then RX - RX then TX, etc... It also makes the connections convenient because they are both in exactly the same place. Almost like flying a 450 all over again! Here's what it looks like on the heli: I like how it wraps the wires around the front of the packs. THey tuck right into the canopy without a lot of fuss where I've seen others (and where I used to) struggle getting the lid on. It also nails the COG pretty much perfect with 3300 packs depending on actual weight, but it does just as well with 3000's and 2600's (just gotta slide 'em down a smidge) Here's the BEC itself: And the ESC side. Barely any wires visible on either side and they stay pretty well protected that way. I think I will add some of the wire sleeving next time because I rashed up my 500's ESc wire not long ago from a sliding crash. It was fixable, but could've been prevented (I think) with some mesh. Normally I'm not that OCD though.
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Tim KBDD TEAM PILOT --Si vis pacem, para bellum-- |
06-21-2011, 10:35 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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you guys rock!!! thanks for the help. that was above and beyond skunk but it made the difference in me actually understanding. My bec is the "super" i think. its the one from nankin thats $99
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Synergy E7se 14s Compass 6hvU |
06-21-2011, 11:01 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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No problem Jman. I've been meaning to upload them so others could duplicate it if they liked it. I know a lot of guys really liked my FBL wire job, so I try to share as often as possible.
Bum's image definitely shows the cleanest way to represent the wiring, but it looks a bit different seeing it hooked up for real (like in my pics), so if you get lost/confused, please let us know and we can help straighten you out. Glad you enjoyed it though.
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Tim KBDD TEAM PILOT --Si vis pacem, para bellum-- |
06-21-2011, 11:03 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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There's a place for both representations. Mine is more appropriate for the planning stage; Tim's for the implementation stage.
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Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people. |
06-21-2011, 11:08 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Agreed! Thanks for sharing 'Bum! I wasn't sure where I could find a diagram like that so I'm glad you could help.
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Tim KBDD TEAM PILOT --Si vis pacem, para bellum-- |
06-21-2011, 11:17 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Great diagrams and examples/photographs, gentlemen (I new your wiring would be ulta-neat Tim).
I actually deleted the connector between the "Y" adapter and the ESC on my last set up (the Punch R/C ESC). I soldered the red wire from the ESC to the positive post of one connector, then the black wire from the ESC to then negative post on the second connector, the ran a wire from the free positive post of the one connector to the free negative post on the other. This is not my idea, someone else on the forum had done it. I realized that I never, ever disconnected the plug between the ESC and the "Y" harness (I had the plugs taped together so they could not come apart in flight.
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KBDD-Team Captain, JR DFA Team Pilot. Forza 450, Forza 600N, Forza 700, Compass 6HV-U, Warp, 7HV,Knight Pro,Knight 3D, Atom, Odin II, 6HV, 3D Plus, Knight 50, Chronos, Velos, Steam 550 and 600, OMP M2 (and anything else I can get my hands on...). |
06-22-2011, 12:53 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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I've seen it done that way as well. Less safety, but also less wiring to deal with too, so I guess it would be for some people, but not all (especially accident-prone bozos like me! ). All good examples though. Like they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat.
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Tim KBDD TEAM PILOT --Si vis pacem, para bellum-- |
06-22-2011, 06:52 AM | #12 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people. |
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06-22-2011, 10:43 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Alan,
"The only reason I want the extra connection is to be able to run the electronics without powering up the ESC and still run the BEC off 12S. If you run the BEC only off 6S, you can do that without the extra connection." I do run the BEC from only 6S.
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KBDD-Team Captain, JR DFA Team Pilot. Forza 450, Forza 600N, Forza 700, Compass 6HV-U, Warp, 7HV,Knight Pro,Knight 3D, Atom, Odin II, 6HV, 3D Plus, Knight 50, Chronos, Velos, Steam 550 and 600, OMP M2 (and anything else I can get my hands on...). |
06-22-2011, 06:46 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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While reading about the all the castle failures I read several post where people were saying the deans isn't a good option for hv setup. But you all have no issues. I personally would prefer deans so I can use my atom lipos wo a separate adapter.
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Synergy E7se 14s Compass 6hvU |
06-22-2011, 07:14 PM | #15 (permalink) | |
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Deans would actually be OK for a HV setup as long as a spark arrestor was used. HV setups typically pull less current than 6S 500 or 550 setups, so current carrying capacity probably isn't an issue. Gradual destruction of the connector from arcing is an issue if a spark arrestor is not used.
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Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people. |
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06-22-2011, 07:32 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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Got a link for one of these spark arrestors?
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Trex 700 Pro DFC - Compass 6HV - Vcontrol - Neo #nodroneshere - 104 |
06-22-2011, 08:13 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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It's built into the Hobbywing HV power leads.
Somewhere I saw a spark arrestor and series adapter in one package. Or, you could do it yourself. In addition to the usual series connection components, you just need a 10 ohm resistor (2W-5W), some medium to small gauge wire, heat shrink tubing, and a mating pair of large bullet connectors. The diagrams I posted above show the spark arrestor; the bullets go where the rectangles under the resistor are. The connection order is significant: the bullets must be connected last.
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Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people. |
06-22-2011, 10:15 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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Thanks Bum.
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Trex 700 Pro DFC - Compass 6HV - Vcontrol - Neo #nodroneshere - 104 |
06-23-2011, 04:04 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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Man, you guys are awesome! I'm in the process of building my 6hv {just got all the electronics today as a matter of fact}, and your pics and diagrams are a BIG help for me. Thanks guys.
Chris |
06-23-2011, 10:47 PM | #20 (permalink) |
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Another quick question here since it's still wiring related.
Is spark an issue with the BEC if one is wired up like in the examples where it's running off 12s but can be plugged in without powering the esc? That's how I plan to wire mine when I eventually get it. I just recieved my Vbar, 610 servos and BEC today.
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Trex 700 Pro DFC - Compass 6HV - Vcontrol - Neo #nodroneshere - 104 |
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