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Old 01-14-2012, 02:53 AM   #21 (permalink)
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You will only get this one to cut about 28x43cm
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
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OK i have the mechanic parts on the way. Max working area will be something like 60x50 cm. Decided for 16mm shafts for x axis and 12mm for others. Not sure if the Y axis will work with 12mm shafts but well see.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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That's pretty small. I have a smaller machine and I have 20mm rods. You may get some flex in it. The Y axis should have the larger rod, since that will be your longest side.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:04 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Do you think the rods on X axis are fine? They are 16mm
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:14 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Do you think the rods on X axis are fine? They are 16mm
My x axis rods are also 16mm (5/8") but are shorter than yours. Mine are 12" and your's are about 19" so you will inherently have more flex. The longer the rods, the thicker diameter you will need to counter flex. Also the distance between the 2 X axis rods makes a difference. Spaced wider is better, closer is less ability to counter tool deflection. It's all a trade off but I think you will be OK as long as you are ok with having to slow your cut speed down to prevent flex.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:19 AM   #26 (permalink)
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My CNC router will be here Thursday...anybody want a build thread?
PLEASE!!!!!
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:22 AM   #27 (permalink)
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PLEASE!!!!!
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=374453
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:52 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My x axis rods are also 16mm (5/8") but are shorter than yours. Mine are 12" and your's are about 19" so you will inherently have more flex. The longer the rods, the thicker diameter you will need to counter flex. Also the distance between the 2 X axis rods makes a difference. Spaced wider is better, closer is less ability to counter tool deflection. It's all a trade off but I think you will be OK as long as you are ok with having to slow your cut speed down to prevent flex.
Yes I was thinking the same. At least for the very first version. I can change it in time if i needed. Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:09 AM   #29 (permalink)
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just finished building my cnc router. It's a little larger at 4ft x 4ft of cutting area. I purchased my parts from CNCrouterparts.com. That cheap controller you might want to replace soon as they are not very reliable from what I understand.. Suggested replacement is a geckodrive G540. On CNCZone there is a thread by romanlini about some Hall-effect limit switches which would be a good first project for you.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:35 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Actually, the enclosure they build is very well made. Obviously, not on the level of popularity of a gecko, but I would say from what I've read the trouble most people have is not knowing which end of a screwdriver to use...by that I mean end user error. Especially when people get to wiring and building themselves.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:46 AM   #31 (permalink)
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just finished building my cnc router. It's a little larger at 4ft x 4ft of cutting area. I purchased my parts from CNCrouterparts.com. That cheap controller you might want to replace soon as they are not very reliable from what I understand.. Suggested replacement is a geckodrive G540. On CNCZone there is a thread by romanlini about some Hall-effect limit switches which would be a good first project for you.
Nice looking setup CD! with a 4' by 4', any issues with flex? what plans did you use to build it?
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:33 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I used the CNCRouterparts.com plans. So far I'm still testing. There really doesn't seem to be alot of flex so far but then I've just finished building it. I broke a 1/8" bit instantly when I forgot to start the router and started the cutting run for a case for a hall effect sensor. My upper gantry is made from 3060 aluminum extrusion which is pretty beefy. The gantry supports are steel.
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:25 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Thanks.

One another question about bushing blocks. What do you think of these?

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/rectangle...ocks-lg25.html
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:32 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Solidworks is all you need.
Solidworks is ALOT of money for 2D frame profiles.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:41 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Frankly my experience with goodlucksell has been dismal. Your mileage may vary. On another note, those are just the linear block and not the rail. Personally I'd keep looking
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:45 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Yes. Those are blocks only. I will buy the rails from a local shop because goodluckb. have no 1m rails in stock.

I ordered a a shipment 2 weeks ago and payed EMS cost. They haven't shipped it yet.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:29 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Solidworks is ALOT of money for 2D frame profiles.
Yeah, but he already has it that's why I said that. I agree, SW is a lot. Work just got me a copy of 2012 and it cost twice what my mobile workstation cost.

Also, even though you only need a 2D frame profile to cut it on a router, you have to build it in 3D if you want to assemble it into an entire heli and see how all your components will fit together virtually before you start making parts. This is where SW pays for itself.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:19 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I started to build mine.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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The Y axis

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Old 03-06-2012, 02:04 PM   #40 (permalink)
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