How to remove Screws?

[Bruno28]

Hello,

My trex 250 has some screws that the tool does not work, as the metal from the screws are too soft and end up enlarging the area in which the tools should go in.

How do I remove the worn out screws?
I've tried a bigger size allen key, but its too big to fit in.

[CNP835]

you can try the MIP thorp drivers or the good old dremel set and cut a slot for a flat head screw driver across the top of the head. I hated my 250 until I got the MIP tools

[Bruno28]

Originally Posted by CNP835

you can try the MIP thorp drivers or the good old dremel set and cut a slot for a flat head screw driver across the top of the head. I hated my 250 until I got the MIP tools

great idea about the flat screw driver!

[Ron~FordTech]

My 250 is used, and 95% of the various screws have their sockets rounded. I had a devil of a time removing the head-securing screw! (Since the Dremel is a bit like a sledgehammer-to-kill-a-fly scenario...I used a small file and created opposing flats on the outer diameter of the button head. It allowed me to grab the head with needlenose pliers - worked like a charm)

Anyway I wanna replace essentially ALL of the assorted screws ASAP. I checked the manual, and many of the screws are identified as T1.5 x 3mm. In my mind, the "T" at the beginning denotes a Torx head/socket. That's not the case here though, is it?

And the ones in greatest number -- which I need to replace ASAP -- (socket: 1.3mm) are described with this rather cryptic notation:

0# x 3mm

The head screw (socket: 0.9mm) is described as this:
0#x6mm80



I guess what I'd really appreciate is a short list; the two or three ultra-tiny ones as mentioned. What size are they, anyway?

And have we found a good source for stainless replacements/upgrades besides RC_Screwz? I have a hi-grade driver, but until I get the crappy ones out it is of little use to me. And until I know the sizes there's no sense stumbling around online or in stores.

Please & thank you!

[JoeW]

The T screws have a machine screw thread.

I've been using Align hardware with MIP Thorpe hex drivers.

Best combo IMHO.

[jfh666]

The align hardware is average at best: the hex size has too much 'tolerance' to it and the metal is so soft i could chew it. But the MIP makes it ok.

[Ron~FordTech]

Gad - I can't believe how difficult it is to source a simple hex driver in Canada!! My brothers on the other side of the ditch don't know how good they have it when it comes to selection, availability and -- especially -- price on stuff.

I've been calling all over and the MIP/Thorp driver is not in stock anywhere within a semi-reasonable distance...and where they DO have one it'll cost me several dollars to have it shipped. AND I have to wait for it. Very frustrating.

Even good old Amazon -- despite having it at a decent price -- won't even mail it across the border! And (as usual) the Cdn Amazon website has...well...books. Thousands of books - yes - but SFA outside of that.

[Ron~FordTech]

Originally Posted by jfh666

The align hardware is average at best: the hex size has too much 'tolerance' to it and the metal is so soft i could chew it. But the MIP makes it ok.

Yes - I completely agree.

That said, when I do get started removing the crappy (chewable) screws...are there better replacements without buying the expensive (and iffy quality) RC_Screwz kit?

[ahahn]

Originally Posted by Ron~FordTech

Yes - I completely agree.

That said, when I do get started removing the crappy (chewable) screws...are there better replacements without buying the expensive (and iffy quality) RC_Screwz kit?

FWIW, with the MIP/Thorpe drivers (0.9 and 1.3mm),I've had no issue with the standard Align hardware.

Back to another of your questions, the #0 designation is just the bolt size, like #2 or #4. These are not metric. I too found it was unusual to see these, I just figure there is no metric equivalent in that size range (??). the x3mm is just the bolt length.

[Ron~FordTech]

That was my guess too. Any thoughts on the 80 part?

So...if the micro screws are not metric, what are they? Surely not Imperial?! And what about thread pitch? I'm just apprehensive that it'll be hard to find replacements.

[Bladecpnitro]

I had to file down an allen wrench to fit the grub screw on the pinion on my HK 250 when it got rounded out a little. I used a slightly larger allen wrench in inches like a 2/32 or something close to that. Mark one side with a felt tip marker and hit the tip with a bastard file maybe ten times turn it a notch file ten more times. Do that until you get all the way around and repeat the process until it fits the bolt perfectly.

The HK 250 kit uses Torx screws and they work fabulously. The only problem with them is they work so good you have to be careful not to strip the aluminum your screwing into. You won't be stripping the bolt head any time soon if you get the driver in place correctly. I've never stripped one out.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...crew_Pack.html

I believe Tarot 250's use Torx head too but couldn't fine any.

There are some cheap parts on the HK 250 and I have about $50.00 worth of Align parts on it that I put on as the HK stuff failed but I always put those Torx head bolts back in instead of the new Align bolts. I love em.

[dbennettya]

Originally Posted by Ron~FordTech

That was my guess too. Any thoughts on the 80 part?

So...if the micro screws are not metric, what are they? Surely not Imperial?! And what about thread pitch? I'm just apprehensive that it'll be hard to find replacements.

0-80 is SAE for #0 and 80 threads per inch. It is a standard size for the USA.

Good Luck, Don

[Ron~FordTech]

Really?! NON-metric?? Thanks for that - it's very useful!

[litehawkdown]

I got this at Crappytire. works for me. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

[Ron~FordTech]

Before I go any farther I wanna say sorry to Bruno! I originally muscled in with a question that I thought was extremely relevant, and which I projected would generate some interesting & helpful reading for him and anyone else who may have wandered by. If it now seems like a heavily-armed hijack, I apologize.

Okay!

Now that the identity and dimensions of these confounded screws has been made...where can I order some [better] replacements? I'm not spending RC_Screwz money, but I have heard that the hardware for a HK250 is superior. Several search attempts have yielded nada; does anyone have a link?

Eventually I want to replace most or all of the crappy black screws...but at this moment I am down for the lack of just one: the haed -> main shaft screw. I'd like to use a socket head as opposed to a button head, but I can't find the blasted size online!

[vertico]

Here are the HK Torx screw, they are excellent:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...crew_Pack.html

And you can't beat the price with a stick!

[Ron~FordTech]

Outstanding - thanks very much!!

[toonttm]

For removing stripped heads try a set of vice grips to get the head turning then a normal driver should allow you to remove them. You can also try cutting a small slot into the jaws of an old set of pliers. I found the dremel to large, even a small file seemed to large to cut a slot, those heads are tiny.


As for screws, I have some of the RC-screwz, I don't know if they round because they mainly seem to snap before I can even get them tight. I've got a set of Align screws on the way and will only be using MIP drivers from now on. (on Ebay, about $12 each).

EDIT: Just looked at the HK screw set, wow, that is cheap, definitely worth a look

[wonderd]

What about a driver for the torx screws? will the HK 4in 1 set be good enough?

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by wonderd

What about a driver for the Torx screws? Will the HK 4 in 1 set be good enough?

A Torx driver came with my HK 250 kit and I've never had any problem with it. The T5 should work fine on the 250 screws.