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03-09-2016, 07:02 AM | #43 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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Thanks. I probably spent an hour messing with it before I thought about bending the connector. It was the best solution I could cone up with anyways.
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03-09-2016, 07:06 AM | #44 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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Flew it last night. It definitely makes a difference. I dialed down the throttle curve on Idle up 1 to a flat 30% so the heli doesn't spin much when I hit throttle hold. So take-off and land in Idle up 1 then switch to Idle up 2 once in the air. A buddy of mine was flying his stock so we got a good comparison. It's not as powerful as an mCPX BL but it is a significant upgrade.
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03-09-2016, 06:10 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2012
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Are you guys all using mCP X landing gear and larger lipos? If so, which lipo and what kind of flight time are you getting?
I ordered new Pulse 160 mah lipos to replace my worn down 45C E-Flites, and I ordered an MMW motor as well. I may pick up a 2nd later, and am thinking about the 2nd one as going BL with mCP X skids and the Lynx stretch kit for an outdoor only nCPS (yard heli).
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KDS Chase 360 - μBeast+ - Scorpion - HW 50A - KST 215MG - MKS DS95i Blade 230S / 180 CFX / mSR X / mSR XK K110 / Phoenix / DX6i
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03-09-2016, 06:39 PM | #46 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
The 180 CFX more closely resembles, in design and construction, the bigger helis but on a more modest budget and requiring less flying space. Like the better bigger helis, it uses a CF, instead of plastic, frame and TT tail instead of a direct drive tail. Servos are rotary instead of linear, and the tail servo has enough torque and speed, as its also used on the much larger 450 X. The bigger disc will give it slightly more 'float' and it will drop less like a rock when flipping from inverted. It has a very high head speed and uses still inexpensive 2S power instead of 1S. The 180 CFX would be much more capable in doing things like smooth tic tocs, or piro flips, then the mCP X, although it will be a little more to repair in a crash. Its harder to fly then the 230S, and it has no SAFE or 'Panic Recover,' but I don't think that's a big loss on a small, inexpensive 180 CFX. It would seem a better step up from an nCPS then either an mCP X BL or 230S, and the nCPS is still better suited then the mCPX BL to smaller indoor spaces.
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KDS Chase 360 - μBeast+ - Scorpion - HW 50A - KST 215MG - MKS DS95i Blade 230S / 180 CFX / mSR X / mSR XK K110 / Phoenix / DX6i
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03-10-2016, 09:48 PM | #47 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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A few corrections. The 180CFX uses a 3S 450mAH battery not 2S. It definitely does not use the same tail servo as a 450 heli. The tail servo is total crap. Four of the guys in my flying group have had the stock tail servo fail within 6 mo. Three of us had the tail servo fail in under 3 mo. Mine lasted 6 mo. We all upgraded to a EFlight 3060 tail servo but you need to install an after-market bracket to hold the larger servo.
Don't get me wrong. I LOVE the 180CFX but it needs over $100 in upgrades to really make it sing. The tail wags. HH tried to fix it with a software patch but the real fix is to replace the plastic tail box, bell crank and pitch slider with metal parts. If you hit the tail in a crash, you take out inboard gears that are a pain to replace. The fix for that is easy. You just need to make a clutch for the torque tube. The case tabs break off the servos in a crash and the servo gears strip easily. There are metal covers, metal gears and servo savers that will prevent these problams. If you want "Safe Mode" and bailout, you will need to upgrade the controller to a Micro iKon. That will set you back $100. When all is said and done, this $229 heli will cost you $350-500, depending on how far you want to go with it but at a minimum, you should make a torque tube clutch and install servo savers. It will save you a lot of heartache. The metal servo covers are a nice upgrade that will also pay for themselves quickly and the tail servo is a ticking time bomb so plan on ordering the bracket and a 3060. If you don't mind spending the money and doing the work, it is well worth investing in this little heli and some upgrades. It is a great size for trying new things and with an iKon, it can get you out of trouble if you lose orientation and are headed for the ground. Joe Quote:
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03-10-2016, 10:29 PM | #48 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
Even with the tweaking you mention, and cost range involved, I still think its peanuts for the end result: a micro that more closely resembles a larger heli in design and construction material, yet is 200 class and whose competition is the Trex 250 and the 230S. Which makes the 180 CFX the winner there IMHO. Side note: at the lower end of the upgrade range you mention, the 180 CFX is about on par for price with the Trex 250 & its 3gx FBL - so I'd take the 180 CFX hands down. And to me, with its plastic frame and direct drive tail motor, the 230S just isn't appealing. I saw, on sale and new, today an mCP X BL BNF and even though the discount wasn't much, its still tempting. Its a step up in price and 3D potential from the nCPS, though not indoor friendly for me, and I'm tempted to buy it now and the 180 CFX a little later. They are both good helis in their own respects, and I wish Blade had not discontinued the mCP X BL at a time when the new product coming to market is the FP 120S.
__________________
KDS Chase 360 - μBeast+ - Scorpion - HW 50A - KST 215MG - MKS DS95i Blade 230S / 180 CFX / mSR X / mSR XK K110 / Phoenix / DX6i
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03-11-2016, 01:05 PM | #49 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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I agree. As I said, I love the 180CFX. You just need to know what you are getting going in. When the Oxy 2 comes out, that may all change.
The 120S is fixed pitch and only 1S so it will be a notch down from the Nano CPS. If you want something that's between the mCPX BL and the 180CFX, take a look at the HiSky HCP100S. It is the size of the mCPX BL but has WAY more power and has Piro comp. Both main and tail motors are outrunners. Parts are dirt cheap too. It is a bit much for flying indoors unless it is in a gym but it blows away the mCPX BL in my opinion. You can get it from Banggood. You will also need a DSMX satellite receiver if you plan to use it with a Spektrum transmitter. Be sure to order from the Chinese warehouse. The U.S. warehouse stocks an older version that has some issues. I wrote a review on their site that explains in more detail but you definitely want the V3 version from China. Joe Quote:
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03-11-2016, 02:33 PM | #50 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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That hisky heli looks neat and cheap too. Do you think it's better to go ncps to something like that, or better to skip it and just go for 180cfx sized heli if flying out doors?
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03-11-2016, 03:40 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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It depends what you are looking to do. The 180CFX has a torque tube tail drive so the tail is mechanically connected to the main gear while the HiSky has a tail motor. So the 180 is more locked in and more capable but also more fragile and more expensive to repair. The HiSky responds more like a "real heli" than any other micro I've flown but the tail motor does have its limitations. For under $100, I think it is worth having as a midpoint between the two. You won't get sick of flying it even when you upgrade to a 180CFX or larger heli. The guys in my group fly everything from the mCPX to 700 class helis outdoors. We all have a HiSky now and it has enough power to handle pretty good wind outside.
Joe |
03-11-2016, 04:58 PM | #52 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: May 2012
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Quote:
The stretched nCPS with the MMW motor should be about as much as I have room to fly inside, so I'm looking at the 180 CFX for the outdoor yard flier. And I would bring it to the soccer field I'll fly my Chase at, as well, for extra flying space. I looked at 180 CFX part prices and they are close enough to their mCP X BL counterparts in price. I can get stock and many after-market parts for the 180 CFX here in Canada within a week.
__________________
KDS Chase 360 - μBeast+ - Scorpion - HW 50A - KST 215MG - MKS DS95i Blade 230S / 180 CFX / mSR X / mSR XK K110 / Phoenix / DX6i
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04-02-2016, 04:14 PM | #53 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Hey guys, much thanks for all the picks and data. I would like to confirm what i'm seeing with this install with what everyone else is.
1. normal mode inop 2. solid red led on board (unless you push panic, then blue/red) 3. throttle max out at about 52% channel command w/ dx9 4. tail motor spins slightly and constantly as soon as batt plugged in. gyro settings seem to have no effect on this. (stock tail motor) Other than that, this bird is now way more stable. I appear to have gained 45 seconds of flight time with 180 mAh electron pro batts (compared to stock time with same batt, 1 min subtracted for lvc "safe zone".) Panic still works normally despite blue/red led rather than just blue. Only thing i'm not sure is normal is the constant tail motor spin. It's not even enough to move heli on tile surface, but I find it strange. |
04-02-2016, 09:36 PM | #54 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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I don't have any of those issues. Are you using the SPM file I uploaded?
Joe |
04-02-2016, 11:48 PM | #55 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2015
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I am not, must have missed the attachments. I'll dig back through posts and give it a shot. The heli flies without an issue, I normally stay in the 100% throttle curve anyway, but will def redo transmitter settings when I find yours.
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04-03-2016, 12:14 AM | #56 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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I found the file. Thank you Joe. For anyone else looking to bump settings he posted it in another thread. Link follows: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=716793
I'll double check transmitter settings first, rebind (again) then look at my solder job I guess. After going through posts I see another did post that normal mode soft start was inop. Let me clarify what I meant, in normal mode the motor does a quick kick in, there is no auto level function (not that I care, never flew in that mode save takeoff/land but it was there with old motor and same transmitter settings) and the led remains solid red in normal, iu1, and iu2. I would like tail motor gremlin to go but it holds well in air. Signal lead was soldered onto point shown in page 1 of this thread, power leads were soldered color matching on top side. I'm not sure where else issue could be or why it popped up immediately after install before I started messing with values. Will report tomorrow if your settings work. |
04-03-2016, 11:56 AM | #57 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2015
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It was most def my setup guys. Joe's worked like a champ. IDK why mine worked with the brushed motor but not brushless, I missed something. Thanks again man, I now have a brushless Nano CPS with all modes working and tail motor doesn't spin constantly anymore.
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04-03-2016, 07:42 PM | #58 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Nov 2014
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I also made some adjustments to the throttle curves after I installed the brushless kit. They are not in the file I uploaded, since most are running the stock motor. These changes will give you a softer start in Normal mode and give you different heads speeds in Idle 1 & 2. These settings are only for those of you running the brushless kit. Don't use them with the stock motor.
Normal: 0% 20% 30% 30% 30% Idle 1: Flat 30% Idle 2: Flat 100% Joe |
04-22-2016, 07:18 AM | #59 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2014
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I installed the hh brushless all soldered. Using the rtf radio and everything works the same as before. I can go straight to iu and it starts just as before. All lights in all modes are good. It does drift forward in stability but probably due to the extra weight. Nothing a calibration couldnt fix i guess.
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