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| Blade 400 Blade Helicopters (eFlite) 400 Helicopters |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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Registered Users
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Can't stress the use of Loctite enough. Long stroy short. This weekend while watching some guy's set blade tracking on a brand new Trex700 , a ball joint on the swash backed out.{You can only imagine the destruction of the heli.} Source of Cause.Lack of/No Loctite on the ball's.
So this morning after going thru entire heli, I take it out for alittle hovering to get warmed up. Well after 1st pack. Everything looked good,trimed,blades tracked,,etc... I pulg in 2nd pack and notice the rudder is not responding to my input's.So after inspection I noted that the set screw holding the blade grips to the shaft had backed out. Yep you guessed it I forgot to put Loctite on it' after last build. Didn't cause any damage, because I found it prior to lift off, but would have been a real bummer if I would've just put the "peddle to the metal" and just went for it. So moral of the story...become good friend's with good ole red and blue!!! Guess that wasn't such a short story........... |
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#2 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Dont and wont use it, Mabye on the swash balls. But there are 2many parts you can get in into in the head I dont wanna take the risk.
The old guys at my local feild told me I should be cheking all that stuff before the 1st flight of the day. Using loctite is just somthing to make you feel better about not cheking things like we all know we should be before each flight. Im guilty somtimes of just wanting to get it up in the airand not cheking everything. Thats been my method from day one, and I have yet to have any problems with my heli flying apart. Ive also read just as many people online tell me not to use it as many as there are people here telling me to.. hehehe Nothing is a guarentee of safty except for inspections... even the not 100% hehe If you do use it, I wouldnt suggest using the Red. Its WAY to strong for what we would need. U might need to get somthing off someday |
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#3 |
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Registered Users
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I agree with not using red loctite, but just because you use the blue doesnt mean you shouldnt inspect the heli before a flight
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#4 |
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HF Support
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Regarding blue Loctite, I say use it or lose it on all metal into metal screws.
Just use it sparingly, the Finless method, and it won't get on anything else. ...And do preflight inspections. I usually do thorough post flight inspections after every flying session. Then I'll look over items of concern at the field between flights. JMO
__________________
Zen and the Art of Helicopter Maintenance Blade 400: E-flite 420H/35X ESC, AR6100e, HS65HB x 3, G401B/DS290G. (Ret.) CopterX 450AE V2: 430XL/35X ESC, AR6100, HS65HB x 3, LTG2100T/HSG-5084MG. T-Rex 550E V1 Classic Flybar: 600MX/BL70G, AR6200, DS610 x 3, Quark/DS650, 16t/520mm blades. |
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#5 |
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Registered Users
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I have found that it is easier to place a very small drop on the INSIDE of the feathering shaft BEFORE you put the head grips back on...... this is a good way to keep loctite from getting into the thrust bearings when replacing the feathering shaft and/or head dampners...ive ruined a handful of thrust bearings by using too much loctite......just a dab will do ya...
__________________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. | TREX-500 SUPERCOMBO| | BLADE-400 | MD500D Fuselage w/ Lights | | TREX-450-SE/V2 |Align 3GX|Fusuno MD500E Fuselage|5 blade|
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#6 |
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Registered Users
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I've had a ball back out of the swash. I was luckily able to get the b400 over tall grass before hitting throt hold. Only broken part was the anti-rotation bracket.
For the feathering shaft, I role the locktite into the threads with my finger, let it dry a bit, then screw it in. That way it's not dripping all over.
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To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#7 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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I am not saying not to do a preflight inspection. I always do. However,due to vibration's while the heli is being flown, thing's sometime work there way loose. It's up to the individual whether or not to use a little insurance.
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#8 | |
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Registered Users
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Quote:
Of course, this might be your personal opinion, but using an assortment of loctite is imperative in our hobby. Have you build a heli yet? The manuals for, e.g., the Trex line are full of loctite requirements. The kits even come with blue and green loctite, and in addition require CA here and there. Rule of thumb: - Use blue loctite on every metal-to-metal fastener (but on lock nuts). - Use green loctite to secure ball bearings to metal parts where the manual says so (e.g., on the T450/T500 on the metal seesaw and the metal flybar cage) - Use CA only if required by the manual (e.g., on the T450/T500 on the ball studs that go into the plastic mixer arms) - Use red loctite almost NEVER (only if explicitly required by the manual) When applying loctite or CA, always clean the parts with denatured alcohol first. Then apply just a very little amount to the thread of the bolt (first 1-2 mm of the thread max). Wipe off any exessive liquid from the bolt (I use a regular tissue to wipe off, so that there is liquid only between the thread). Fasten the bolt with reasonable force and let it sit (best over night). Good luck, Frank |
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#9 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Manitoba Canada
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I don't use much at all , after flying I go over the heli and check every nut and bolt.
Just like I do after running my nitro truck's. Kevin
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Blade CP-PRO---Blade 400-----Blade MCX |
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#10 | |
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Registered Users
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Quote:
Let me get this straight.....You don't use locktite because there are too many parts?
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T-Rex 600 Nitro Super Pro T-Rex 450 SE V2 on 4s PZ 27C Stryker (yea, it's a plank) |
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#11 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2008
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No its not a joke. I didnt post anything to make it seem like this was jest. Seriously, read more carefully.. I even said use it (just not the red) I just stated why I dont and what Ive done differantly to achive the same results. Ive had the 400 since launch and had no problems at all with screws or blades flying out.
No I dotn use it on the head because Ive had it almost all together, Noticed somthing not right and had to take it apart, In the process ive gotten the little amount ive used onto the other parts(bearings an whatnot) Mabye I should have worded it differantly, I dont use any locktite in the head. I do pre and post flight inspections of my head, this allows 2 me to find the loosies before they happen. Mind you ive never had a loose screw to tighten. Mabye its just me but I dont have any vibrations in my head bad enough to make a tightend screw come loose and fly out in a 5 min flight. If I went 10 flights without checking then mabye. But following this , ive neve had a problem and I dont forsee having one in the future if I stick to this. Do what you will, DO what works. I was just painting the other side of the fence. |
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#12 |
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Registered Users
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Uhhhh.....I'm pretty sure i did.....
"But there are 2many parts you can get in into in the head I dont wanna take the risk." What did I miss? I have never got any loctite in bearings or any other head part. Just becuase you havent had a problem yet means nothing. BTW....This isn't an attack so calm down. There are plenty of post around hear to prove that not using loctite is dangerous. Do what you want.... ![]()
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T-Rex 600 Nitro Super Pro T-Rex 450 SE V2 on 4s PZ 27C Stryker (yea, it's a plank) |
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#13 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2008
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No no, my problem with your responce made it sound like I was saying there is to many parts in the head. What I MENT was 2 many small parts for loctite to get squeezed into where they shouldnt.
One thing I will say tho, 90% of the posts in the blade400 forum (dont know about the other ones) about horrible things happening without locktite are people who dont do proper pre and post flight checks. Blades flying off at spool up is not a problem of using locktite. Its a problem with not cheking your heli before the flights. I dont remeber anyone saying that they cheked there heli over found no problems, spooled up and the blades magicly flew off. Ive been building things forver, and honestly there is nothing in the 400s head that should require locktite if its looked after right, its not that complicated.... baring some problem that would make your heli vibrate to death... hehe Mabye this is more of a RTF problem, as people open the box and fly. And the habit carries over to every flight.. I danno... Its not just me, ALOT of people I fly with dont use loctite. I didnt come to this by myself. I was told to do what I do from people I know know alot more than I do so listened and in 1.5years havent had anything fly off my 400. |
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#14 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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#15 |
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Registered Users
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Though I use loctite in metal to metal screw threads and CA in some metal to plastic fastening where appropriate BUT I do strongly believe that the pre-flight check is the crucial part of ensuring a flight worthy model. I'm pretty new to this hobby but common sense says even a model running 325 blades can be pretty dangerous if it's badly maintained and/or out of control.
I go through everything before each session whilst I wait for the electronics to acclimatise. I will even check key parts between flights. "It's all good fun til someone loses an eye." ![]()
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- EF Blade 400 - HS65mg/DS760/DS8910/440H/HW40/SAB325/3s/10t - Flight Log: 308 - - MSH Protôs Carbon - HS-5245mg/DS760/DS650/SportBEC/MSH26-10/Jeti80/SAB425/6s/13t - Flight Log: 76 -
- BUILDING! - MSH Mini Protôs Carbon - HS65mg/Quark/DS8910/Scorpion/YGE/SAB325/3s/16t - Flight Log: 0 - - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. - |
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#16 | |
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HF Support
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Quote:
__________________
Zen and the Art of Helicopter Maintenance Blade 400: E-flite 420H/35X ESC, AR6100e, HS65HB x 3, G401B/DS290G. (Ret.) CopterX 450AE V2: 430XL/35X ESC, AR6100, HS65HB x 3, LTG2100T/HSG-5084MG. T-Rex 550E V1 Classic Flybar: 600MX/BL70G, AR6200, DS610 x 3, Quark/DS650, 16t/520mm blades. |
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