Build/Review: Just-Heli 500D using a Blade 400

[BlackTitanium]

What's in The Box:

This is Just-Heli's Hughes 500D fuselage, from Century-RC, it is their Green N23CP version.

*Fiber Glass scale fuselage x 1
*Pellucid canopy cover x 1
*Horizontal stabilizer x 1
*Vertical stabilizer x 3
*Molded Plastic Landing Gear x 4
*Aluminum Skids x 2
*Frame Stand Wood Board 1
*Frame Stand Wood pack x 1
*Screw Pack x1

[BlackTitanium]

In this 500D build, I will be using the E-flite Blade 400 3D Helicopter.
I picked up the PNP version for $279, a Spektrum 6100e Receiver and will be using the stock configuration with a Carbon fiber main rotor upgrade.



Note: Be sure to perform a full setup routine with the Blade 400 out of box.
I did find that some adjustments were necessary and one of the tail rotors was on backwards.


Horizontal and Vertical Stabilizer Assembly



Using a 5 minute epoxy, assemble the horizontal and vertical stabilizer components.
Set aside and allow epoxy to cure.




Landing Gear Assembly

Assemble the Skid and Strut assemblies.
Position into place the landing gear assemblies.



Tip:
Apply masking tape to bottom of the fuselage, around the struts, to prevent epoxy from dripping through.



Apply 5 minute epoxy to landing gear struts contact points.
Set a weight, i.e., Lipo pack, onto the fuselage floor of the fuselage, the weight will aid in keeping everything level while the epoxy sets.




"T" Tail Assembly

The vertical stabilizer is pre-drilled for mounting on a T-Rex 450 tail assembly, and the mounting hole spacing is slightly larger than the Blade 400's.




Align the 500D and Blade 400 vertical stabilizer, and drill a new hole into the 500D's vertical stabilizer.




You should now have a oblong hole in the 500D vertical stabilizer.
The hole will be hidden when the washer and screw is installed.

[BlackTitanium]

Helicopter Mechanics Prepartion

Using a Blade 400 that has been fully set up and flight tested, remove the canopy rod, landing gear, tail boom support rods, horizontal and vertical stabilizers.
Disassemble the tail rotor gear box assembly.





Tip:
Tri-fold a piece of masking tape, adhesive side out, place it between the belt loop and attach to tail boom sides.




The gyro, in the stock installed position, will obstruct the Blade 400 from fitting into the fuselage.



Reposition the gyro 90 degrees, and this will clear the obstruction.



Reposition the second servo rod guide forward to prevent obstruction inside the fuselage tail boom.




Insert the Blade 400 into the fuselage, and determine the required height of the wood pieces you'll need
to stack on the fuselage base. Secure the wood pieces into place using CA or Epoxy.



Review Notes:
1. 14 wood pieces are included in the kit. I found that I needed to use 22 wood pieces, for the Blade 400 install.

[BlackTitanium]

"T" Tail Mounting

The mounting holes for the vertical stabilizer are obstructed by the fuselage.
some Dremel work will be required, in order to access the mounting holes.





"The Stinger"

When landing on uneven surfaces, i.e., grass fields, the 500D's tail may tilt back, and can result in a tail rotor strike. I installed a "stinger" on the bottom of the vertical stabilizer.




Vibrations:

To aid in minimizing vibrations I applied some acoustical foam between the Blade 400 and fuselage frame.



Vibrations were being transfered from the Blade 400's tail boom where it made contact with the fuselage tail boom. A strip of acoustical foam was applied to the Blade 400 tail boom.




Obstructions:

Some Dremel work was needed to remove linkage rod obstructions.

[BlackTitanium]

Tail Rotor First

Before securing the Blade 400 to the fuselage, reassemble the tail rotor assembly.



Attaching the "T" tail assembly will require some long screws, washers and spacers, that are not included in the kit.





Tie Down:

I find that using cable ties is the best method for securing the Heli mechanics to the Hughes 500 class fuselage.
It is too difficult, for access, to use a screw down method.
When having to perform maintenance or repairs, simply cutting the cable ties allows for quick access.





Center of Gravity:

To achieve the center of gravity on this build, I added a total 140 grams of lead weights in the nose section.




Completed Build

[BlackTitanium]

Shake Down:

After a few flight test I found that excess vibrations were being transfered from the Blade 400 to the fuselage.
The problem persisted after installing the acoustical foam on the base and tail boom.

The servo rod guides on the Blade 400's tail boom was making a rigid contact with the fuselage tail boom.
This was the source of all the nasty vibrations. I removed both servo rod guides from the Blade 400's tail boom.
Doing so also resolved the servo rod interference that was causing tail wag and poor tail hold performance.




I installed acoustic foam on top of the tail boom, where it was making contact with the fuselage.



Another point on contact was where the tail boom exited the fuselage. The "T" tail mounting bracket was contacting the fuselage.





Blade 400 Flight Performance:

Using Zippy 2250mah 20C 3S LiPo packs, the stock Blade 400 carried the fuselage's weight and flew very well!
After a 5 minute flight, the battery and all the electronics were cool, and the Align Multifunction Tester showed 40% battery remaining.

After tweaking the Aileron and Elevator swash mixes down a bit, I find this pairing to be a very stable and convincing scale flying machine.




The metallic green looks beautiful on this fuselage.
The fuselage makes the Blade 400 look big in the air. The "T" tail and the white markings all give very good visible queues for orientation.

[ben1101]

Nice!

Hows the red one with the spread legs coming along?

[BlackTitanium]

Originally Posted by ben1101

Nice!

Hows the red one with the spread legs coming along?

I haven't started work on that one yet.
It looks like I would need to position the struts 4mm toward the centerline to achieve the correct angle.
I shopped for a right angle attachment for my Dremel, to widen the mounting hole, but found that there is none for my model Dremel tool.

[ben1101]

There must be a more barbaric way to get the job done??

Also, you could try what Koal did and extend the gear, it looks pretty good but I don't think he widened the stance of the legs too. That would be killer!

Man, I can't wait to get my own N23CP haha!

Ben

[BennyTRD]

Nice Guys!!