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Blade Helicopters (eFlite) Blade Helicopters (eFlite) CP, CX, mCX CX II, CX III. and others


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Old 06-02-2006, 12:44 PM   #1
supertrex2
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Default Fully modified CP

anyone tried upgrading their CP?
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:50 PM   #2
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The lipo, brushless moter, and symetrical blades upgrade is mandatory IMHO. Some people have done the direct drive tail motor but I have read mixed reviews on that...moters burning out.
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Old 06-02-2006, 04:19 PM   #3
supertrex2
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ohh... I just bought my E-flite CP of Ebay. $150... Not sure if I got ripped off or not. Any metal upgrades available for this heli?
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Old 06-02-2006, 05:46 PM   #4
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why are there two of you?
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Old 06-02-2006, 10:25 PM   #5
zooland1
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Just had to stick my nose in and say I haven't lost the tail motor since I went DD. My mods include 3s lipo, brushed 8t motor, Bell-hiller head from HB CP2, landing gear froim MX400 using century mount, DD tail with GWS E50 motor and GWS 3" push on blade, sym blades and numerous amounts of CA and epoxy as needed. Oh yeah, a lot of link balls drilled out with CF rod through them to hold them back together.

But hey, after seven months, I have only "had to" replace three sets of blades. Nothing else. Everthing else is by choice.
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Old 06-03-2006, 01:17 AM   #6
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CNC frame, brushless main motor, metal swash, DD tail, driven by my 9CHP radio. Flies great

Looking for a brushless TR setup now.
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Old 06-03-2006, 05:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Just had to stick my nose in and say I haven't lost the tail motor since I went DD.
Good to know. I may have to do this one. Does this make much difference?
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Old 06-03-2006, 10:38 AM   #8
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I've seen differing opinions, but it made a huge difference in mine. The tail is more stable and responsive and I don't have to worry about the gear coming loose. If you're interested, check out bladecprepair.com for more info.
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Old 06-09-2006, 02:30 PM   #9
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I like it too. My original tail motor only lasted a few flights. Its a HB CP2. Same size motor but may be different. I have heard differing views on the stock ones.

The GWS lasts longer but they burn up too.
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:31 AM   #10
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Not sure if I've mentioned it on this forum, (I participate on a lot of 'em) but with my DD setup and the GWS motors, I cut down the GWS 4530 props to 3.75" by cutting 3/8" off each and and then balancing them. They still provide plenty of tail authority, but don't work the TR motor so hard.

Other folks have said they run the GWS 3030 or even 3020s with good result.
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Old 06-10-2006, 06:21 AM   #11
Gary JP4
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I was thinking about trying that. I have read about folks using the 3030 or 3020 also. I cut down a tail rotor on an FP once. I used a pair of calipers as a scribe from the center hole and cut with scissors.

Do you get the same torque reaction (tail moving with power) as before? Or is it worse?
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Old 06-10-2006, 11:30 AM   #12
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My tail is pretty solid with the cut down props. It took me a couple battery packs to find the sweet spot with the proportional and then I set the gain all the way up and redunced it until the tail stopped wagging. I do get a little tail wag if I have to get aggressive with the collective, but that's to be expected without a HH gyro.

All in all, if the motors were of better quality, it'd be a perfect solution for me. As it is, I still keep a couple extras on hand - just in case. Too bad E-flite doesn't make a 4-in-1 that'll power brushless main and tailrotor motors.

Oops.. I forgot to mention I'm controlling my CP with my Futaba 9C Tx. The E-flite Tx is in its box collecting dust.
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:20 AM   #13
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I second the brushless. I ask in the other thread but I will ask here too.

How does your tail hold with power changes? My DF4 holds better than this.

If I understand it correctly the proportional adjustment basically centers the rudder trim and doesn't seem to change the amount of rudder you get with power changes. At least it doesn't seem to change mine. If I add more proportional I just have to change the trim. Torque reaction is still the same. This was the same with the stock tail set up. Makes me wonder how it would react to revo set up on separates or just a good Tx for that matter.
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Old 06-15-2006, 06:47 PM   #14
Rick Rotorhead
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I get yaw with changing the collective too - its ok while you can see whats happening, but once I lost orientation at a distance and gave her more collective to climb whilst I worked out which way she was facing, but naturally the tail went well out of line and coupled with my temporary confusion I dumped her badly. The proportional, screw on my 4 in 1 doesn't do much at all, in fact despite my previous post, I still need plenty of left tail trim it seems. Funny thing is she doesn't always need lots of left trim, only for most flights, so how is that a variable? Must be a 4 in 1 problem I guess - maybe the gyro! My stock tail rotor is cut down from about 15cm to 12cm - tail motor is definitely cooler.......
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:23 PM   #15
Skiddz
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The tail holds about as good as can be expected considering the <ahem> gyro. I can't just nail the collective and hope the tail holds, but it's acceptable for the flying I do. (Some FF, basic circuits but mostly trying to land on inverted trash cans, the picnic table, the toolbox on my truck.. ehehhe) I'm kinda considering selling this one off and scratch building a micro with a belt driven tail, HH gyro etc... I have to determine how many nights on the couch that's gonna cost me with next year's tuition bill due at the end of the month.
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