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450 PRO Class Electric Helicopters 450 PRO Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 03-28-2009, 12:23 AM   #1
Holeshot114
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Default 450 Pro question

Im having trouble installing the servos...do you have to take the whole frame apart to get the servos installed per the instructions?
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:12 AM   #2
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ahhh the joys of being the first peeps! No idea I am sure you may wait a few days as so few peeps have them.
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:15 AM   #3
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I just setup my servo tonight. I couldn't get one canopy mount off so I had to install servos with the bearing blocks on the frame. Once I had the servo's installed I got all the servo's moving in the right direction, with pitch/elev/aleron set. Then I removed each servo and set the arms to 90 degree. when installing the elev servo you will need to use the allen that came in the parts bag. also I had to use alot of sub trim with the ds410.
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Old 03-28-2009, 02:20 AM   #4
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I also put together the tail sections and checked the tail for locktite. Make sure you check the tail blade grip bolts. mine didn't have any locktite.
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvrc View Post
I just setup my servo tonight. I couldn't get one canopy mount off so I had to install servos with the bearing blocks on the frame. Once I had the servo's installed I got all the servo's moving in the right direction, with pitch/elev/aleron set. Then I removed each servo and set the arms to 90 degree. when installing the elev servo you will need to use the allen that came in the parts bag. also I had to use alot of sub trim with the ds410.
I thought it was not OK to use any subtrim with any eCCPM system
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:57 AM   #6
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You can use sub trim on the swash, is only on the tail that is not recommended, but the trick is to use different arm to try and get to 90, once you have them as close as possible then you use the sub trim.

Robert
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Old 03-28-2009, 06:09 AM   #7
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I dont have a pro, but to me it looks like you should take the bearing block/servo mount, out of the frame, secure the servos to it, then mount it back in the frame.
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:52 AM   #8
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You can use sub trim on the swash, is only on the tail that is not recommended, but the trick is to use different arm to try and get to 90, once you have them as close as possible then you use the sub trim.

Robert
That is what I do, I take a 4 way arm and twist and turn until one of the 4 sides makes 90 then cut of the remaining 3
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Old 03-28-2009, 08:23 AM   #9
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I wouldnt think to check the tail for locktite since the frame had a ton of locktite on the allen bolts good tip, thanks

. I took the head block bolts out but couldnt get the top block out because the canopy holder studs stick out too far. How do you take the canopy all thread holders out? I guess i have to take all the bolts out of one side of the frame to get the blocks out, what a pain, why would it even come built!! lol, im lazy i guess.

As far as the servo horns go, Align gives you arms that are only one arm, not four like the Hitec servos give you.
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holeshot114 View Post
I wouldnt think to check the tail for locktite since the frame had a ton of locktite on the allen bolts good tip, thanks

. I took the head block bolts out but couldnt get the top block out because the canopy holder studs stick out too far. How do you take the canopy all thread holders out? I guess i have to take all the bolts out of one side of the frame to get the blocks out, what a pain, why would it even come built!! lol, im lazy i guess.

As far as the servo horns go, Align gives you arms that are only one arm, not four like the Hitec servos give you.
You can try to double nut the stud for removal....take two nuts and lock them together on the stud, that should provide enough holding power to remove the stud.
You screw the two nuts on then tighten them together (lossen one/tighten the other) try to line them up..then turn them as a pair, they will usually grab on to the stud...
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:30 PM   #11
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You can try to double nut the stud for removal....take two nuts and lock them together on the stud, that should provide enough holding power to remove the stud.
You screw the two nuts on then tighten them together (lossen one/tighten the other) try to line them up..then turn them as a pair, they will usually grab on to the stud...

Only thing the stud is 2.5mm
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:51 PM   #12
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Does the stud have a hole in the end for a hex key? The body mounts for the 250 are the same way but the studs are put it with a hex key.
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Old 03-29-2009, 12:30 AM   #13
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Stud doesn't have the key hole.

Also from the Servo screw bag, there are two different size flat washers 6 for the cyclic machine screws and 4 for the tail screws.
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Old 03-29-2009, 02:23 AM   #14
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Pull the servo blocks out to put the servos in.
The studs have a hex key hole. It's just in the bearing block side.
Double nut to remove.

Check everything for loctite. Nothing will break when you pull it apart like the 250.
Add more grease in the thrust bearings too.

Add glue to the tail pitch slider ball.
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Old 03-29-2009, 04:04 AM   #15
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Hi,

I am using DS520 for tail servo on 450pro. i couldnt center this servo like futaba tail servos, are you guys adding subtrim on rudder to center? or is it ok to center as much as you can and leave it? also the ball link on the tail pitch slider and ball link on tail servo horn doesnt line up, are you guys having the same issue? did you guys bend the tail control rod to move it freely?

Please advise.

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2009, 01:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvrc View Post
Stud doesn't have the key hole.

Also from the Servo screw bag, there are two different size flat washers 6 for the cyclic machine screws and 4 for the tail screws.
The stud has a key hole according to the manual. Looking at the manual posted it clearly shows a hex hole in the description of the stud, maybe those damn align techs found a way to put them in backwards(wouldn't put it past them).
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Old 03-29-2009, 05:31 PM   #17
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Ok, figured out the servo thing. What a huge pain in the butt!!

How are you guys routing your wiring and placing your electronics? Im going to try and put the esc under the battery tray and the receiver in the back mounted to the frame not the bottom tray. Any ideas?
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