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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 04-07-2009, 10:51 PM   #1
fretman
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Default New weighted tail grips, question.

I noticed my new tail grips with the built in weights have a slop between the grip and the hub. My original one that came with the set didn't have that slop. Anyone else notice this also or is it just mine?

so far the new tail grip did pretty much nothing to improve the occasional slight wag I have.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:58 PM   #2
electricdurango
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My original hub, updated hub, and new weighted grips and hub all have had that slop between the grip/hub. Its like the tail grip screws are not completly tightened into the hub but they are.
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Old 04-08-2009, 04:11 AM   #3
Grant_beltcp
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I got mine through the post yesterday and put them on the 250 last night. I was abit annoyed that they had ALOT more slop in than my old "updated" hub.
The weight on them looks far too small to make any difference too.
The metal tail control arm appears to be a good upgrade so far and removes some of the slop, but the new blade grips have added alot more......
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Old 04-08-2009, 04:26 AM   #4
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The 250 for my part atleast has been more of a curse than anything else... Really got to wonder if they even test the crap before they release it. Cant understand why they can produce decent parts without a ton of slop. After 50 or so flights on my 250, the head is just silly, slop slop slop.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:22 AM   #5
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The 250 is a great heli, but the quality of some of the parts, main bearings is just SH*TE....
Thats why i'm leaning towards flybarless set-ups to get rid of all that slop in the head as its really effecting how it flies now.
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:10 PM   #6
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Darn... was hoping to hear that it was just mine.

At least I know I'm not alone in this, still doesn't make things better though.
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:21 PM   #7
helidude3
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my control arm doesn't have any less slop than than the original. I might add the getto sandwich bag mod.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:23 PM   #8
gixxerjeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helidude3 View Post
my control arm doesn't have any less slop than than the original. I might add the getto sandwich bag mod.
Are you talking about the new metal control arm? when I switched mine over,It measured .003 smaller than the plastic arm.I did replace the pitch slider at the same time as the ball was worn down pretty good.Mine fits pretty good,have done away with my sandwich bag mod.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:07 PM   #9
caseyjholmes
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That's why you guys need a steel ball in there.
The new arm doesn't seem too much smaller of a socket.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:50 PM   #10
helidude3
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how's that setup working? that is the same as mine with exception to the metal ball thing.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
how's that setup working? that is the same as mine with exception to the metal ball thing.
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It's a custom home turned jobber modeled after/idea swooped from T Moore's custom pitch slider.

The hard part was drilling out the align steel ball

I have one of those tiny washers under the ball and a .9 threaded screw in holding it together.

So far so good. Very minimal play between the ball and the arm socket. More play between the grip and the yoke through the links than in my slider to arm socket. Linkage perfectly smooth, but play in the new weighted grips at the bearing is more than the old non weighted ones it would seem. From what I am told, this was put there on purpose to promote some sort of tail coning or something.
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:30 PM   #12
gixxerjeff
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Casey,
On your home turned pitch slider,why didnt you just thread the ball into the slider?
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:07 PM   #13
caseyjholmes
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Didn't want to shave down the threads on a steel ball.
Those balls are very hard to work with being steel. You don't realize it until you try to modify one.

That's why I'm kinda surprised they snap right off the aluminum bits so easy

The screw I have in there did not need to be shortened after I put a washer under the ball. I had to remove the shoulder from the steel ball to make this all line up right. (not easy either!) I ruined 6-7 of those balls trying to get one just right for this slider.

The wall of the pitch slider is very thin around the bearings. (I actually cut it very slightly oversized for this application) There is not much material to thread in to. The thread of the screw has to be the perfect length. I did not want to mess with filing the screw and chance a dodgy thread on such an important part.

You can see a second hole I did in the slider. that was the first time I tried to thread the screw into the slider and messed up. I was not satisfied it was a solid connection, so I drilled a new hole and tried again. The second time, the screw seated very solid as hard as I could screw it in with loctite. I have about 50 flights on this pitch slider with the plastic lever, and 5 flights on this pitch slider with the new aluminum lever.

I have since tried to make more of these pitch sliders for other people, but have not been able to do it again this solid. Go figure..

But I do have video proof that it works. Look hard at my heli on spool up for the aluminum slider shining in the sun. =)
http://holmesrc.com/files/Trex_250_T..._St_3-8-09.wmv

Here's some more pics for you to gain ideas.












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Old 04-09-2009, 12:47 PM   #14
mflander
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Can you make the slider thinner for more travel?
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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.

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