JR Vibe 500E 3D Pro Build + Review + Log

[huskynox]

Nice build

Couple of quick questions if you don't mind....

1.) Will full size 8717's fit the stock frames?
2.) What motor are you using? Looks like a Scorpion HK-3026-1000 will work. Are the pinions 5mm?

Thanks

[riccardoc]

Hi huskynox,

Thanks, I will build it with a E-flite Power 25 1000Kv.
I don't think you can fit the 8717, the Manual says DS821 or the Mini DS3517.
If you have 3 of the 8717 you can send them to me and I will try

[corona007]

Sweeeeeeeet,,,,,,Thats some quality parts, I wanted one but I ended up with the Vibe 50 (already have most of the electronics). I'm really liking my Lepton's quality too just needed to iron out some bugs.


Does that frame have the nut inserts for the servos?

[riccardoc]

Originally Posted by corona007

Does that frame have the nut inserts for the servos?

Thanks corona007,

What do you mean by that?
I will be using the DS3517MG in mine so I had to use the Servo Adapters which uses Nuts and screws to hold to the frame.

[corona007]

For some reason I though the kit came with preinstalled nuts for the servos, It's a feature that make putting servos very easy since the threads are already there but in a insert form,
Some of the after market frames have these for vibe 50, I dont know why I tought they had them! Nice job so far though!!

[CatchmyCorsair]

821's are full size servos so 8717's sound like they would work. But man, that's some serious overkill!

[riccardoc]

Hi all and thank you guys for your input.
I had some time in my hand after i went to the SD Fun Fly today.
Here are some more pictures...

[riccardoc]

So we finally got moved in into our new home and I started a new job with out even a break from my old one, oh well. I had some time to work on my Vibe a little bit more. I have to tell you guys, after a long day of work and you come home and start working on some quality stuff, you forget everything around you. Anyways here are more pictures.

[Thrasymedes]

subscribed.....

[GMRO]

riccardoc,

Very nice pics of your build! Wait till you get the heli in the air, it very much rocks! I've had mine for a few months now...and the more I fly it the more I likes it!!!

I'm using the E-Flite motor and Align500 ESC with Align 500 main rotors and the Thunder Power 2700 MAH 30C Pro Power packs. I chose the smaller pinion that comes with the kit and have the ESC set up for mid timing. I get 6:30mins of great power with good reserve to not hurt the packs.

Good luck finishing your build!

[kdii02]

Great to read about the 500E here. I have been wanting one myself but havent heard much about it until now. Read the RCHeli article too and it sure looks like a killer bird!! Keep the pics coming!!

[kdii02]

Originally Posted by GMRO

riccardoc,

Very nice pics of your build! Wait till you get the heli in the air, it very much rocks! I've had mine for a few months now...and the more I fly it the more I likes it!!!

I'm using the E-Flite motor and Align500 ESC with Align 500 main rotors and the Thunder Power 2700 MAH 30C Pro Power packs. I chose the smaller pinion that comes with the kit and have the ESC set up for mid timing. I get 6:30mins of great power with good reserve to not hurt the packs.

Good luck finishing your build!

_____________
Best Regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO

Hey Ron, that sounds like a great setup 6:30 mins flight times??? Preety sweet!! So you like the E-Flite motor?

[GMRO]

Yes the E-Flite motor works very well IMO. There could be hotter motors out there I'm sure but this motor is no slouch. I know if I ran high timing and added the higher count tooth pinion included in the V500E kit the motor would pull it fine and pump out more. There is plenty of power with the setup I chose. I wanted the flight time vs. all out crazy power. BUT again it's not weak by any means. I land at 6:30 and I see 21.8v on the 6S pack...immediately when I check it after the flight and there is almost no heat on the pack. It usually rebounds to mid 22v...so really I could get 30 sec to 1 min more I'd suspect. Packs are new so I'm just learning the discharge rates. I'm putting back in approx. 2100mah in these 2700 MAH rated packs.

I'm very happy with this heli and the equipment I chose thus far!

I also chose the JR 770/3500G on t/r and JRPS3517MG on cyclic. I have a Spektrum 7000 for guidance. I will likely get 1 of the new Spektrum 2048 mini full range RX's for it...but they are not available yet.

Here are a few pics of my rig...

[Rob43]

GMRO - Thanks for sharing!

A couple of items I'd like to probe relating to the review in this month's RCHeli...

1. They noted cracking the race on one of the tail grip bearings during assembly, and commented that they are delicate and care must be take not to damage them. Not sure what this was caused by. Can you comment?

2. Phasing pins...they also noted that the washout base can drop below the phasing pins - this is normal when everything isn't hooked up yet, but not when operational. Of course the washout base can drop below the phasing pins since this is necessary for assembly. They went on to comment that "care must be taken when spooling up as the washout base can be lowered below the pins". This sounds like a range of travel versus link length issue, but I couldn't tell with the minimal info they provided. I have never seen a setup with permits this when center stick is set for zero pitch and the pitch range is in the usual values of plus/minus 10-13 degrees. In their setup it was 13 degrees each direction from zero, so apparently, when the swash travels to the bottom of the pitch range, the phasing pins were out of engagement of the washout base in their setup! This is alarming, suggesting that a full negative pitch input, the washout would drop below the pins and be out of phase! If it then misaligns, it would be unable to travel back into position! Not good! Can you comment?

[GMRO]

Hi Rob43,

Sure I’ll try and answer your questions per my experience with the Vibe500E.

1st - I did not have the t/r grip issue. I did nothing different then when I assemble/attach the grips to the hub as I would when assembling ANY heli. I’ve owned and built and flown JR helis since 199? - when the first Ergo’s came out. If I understand what you said, 1 of the radial bearings that is pressed into the metal t/r grip was bad or damaged upon the bolt being passed thru it, to attach it to the metal t/r hub? Maybe when they pressed the bearing into the grip it was at an angle and it damaged the bearing? Not the builder but JR? I think if I remember correctly the grips already had the radial bearings in them…from memory…I built this heli MONTHS ago and just can’t remember. I’ll have to consult the manual and see if they are already installed in the package. Just trying to make sure I understand where the issue is and what part a builder would be performing. I just can’t remember if I had to put the bearings in the grip or not… either way I used no fancy tools or assembly tricks to accomplish this. It just worked and I did not ruin any parts while doing the assembly.

2nd – the pins on the base…yes you can have the swash fall below where it would normally RIDE and have the mixing base come out of the pins, drop below, and rotate – BUT not in flight, only on the bench. Note - all JR helis are this way, but not speaking of the NEW 90SG – I don’t have 1 to check. Basically if you handle a 50 or 90 by the mainrotor grips, we all usually carry our helis this way to the field, you can rotate the grips and the swash falls below its normal range and the mixing base will fall below the pins and usually rotate a little. THIS is IF the radio is off. Servos will not allow this to happen if the radio is on. SO if your heli is off and you carry it by the mainrotor grips you can have the grip rotate from the weight of the heli below it and the base can drop below the pins. I always make sure before I power up the radio’s on my JR helis that I check to see that the base is in place since today’s servos and better linkages can be super smooth. You can very easily move them by hand and induce this. To me this is NOT uncommon on all JR’s. In flight you will not have this happen unless you have your linkage lengths all messed up so the swash goes way below the normal range and drops the base way below where it was designed to be…this is an extreme case of mis-length on the rods. So I’ve seen this on JR’s…not a problem, it’s been this way on 50’s, 90’s and even the 60’s back in day.

{Just re-read your post – I have no idea what pitch I have. On smaller helis, than a 30, I do not use a pitch gauge as the blades are too small for my old school and trusty M/A pitch gauge. But I do have my TX set up for max top and bottom pitch window. Center T/C is zero…and top pitch is not binding but allowing the mixing base to become flush with the bottom of the metal hub. So using a number for swash mix of say 82, you get even movement of top and bottom where as ZERO is centered and if your linkage is assembled right you are at the center of the usable movement. My swash is not falling below to let the PINS become an issue at full bottom or negative. Hope this makes sense…}

What I did notice and alerted the folks at JR of is a diagram that is wrong in the manual for the auto assembly area. Did the magazine mention this? Page 17 on the right in the manual...there is a note in a text box that says "note the proper direction to install the auto rotation collar is as shown". Then there is a nice pic. But the pic is inverted. If you install the part like the pic shows the main gear will have top to bottom slop, it can be moved up and down and CLICK on the mainshaft, and it will not feel right. I installed that collar with the THRU bolt hole more on the bottom and now the maingear will not slide up and down on the mainshaft or CLICK. The collar should be installed with the hole more on the bottom. Farther back on page 52 in the manual you can see a view of this part installed like it should be. Likely this was just a cut and paste issue when the manual was created. It is not a part issue or fit issue.

Lastly on pages 8 and 9 I ran short on the 2.6 X 6 screws. I must have used them on page 8. When I got to page 9 I didn't have enough to use 6 for mounting the battery tray. I removed the screws from other places and replaced them with slightly longer ones so I could use the shorter ones on the battery tray. ALSO the 6 flat head screws that hold the carbon tray to brace mounts are easily to strip. I had to drill out 2 of them as the cross point drive slipped and wiped out the heads on them. No spares in the bag…so I just re-ordering them. Past that I had no issues with the kit.

I’m a pretty good builder and have built a lot of helis over the years. I find the Vibe500E very enjoyable to build. AND even more enjoyable to fly! Yes I’ve had other helis that required more assembly and had more issues. The things I call out in my V500E build - are not ones that I would give the kit a black eye for. I had plenty of hardware and all the parts fit very nicely with no forcing and are of great quality.

I have not read this article you speak of. I don’t get that magazine. I hope they liked the performance. I very much like this heli. It is solid and flies like it is on rails in the sky. I really don’t think it’s a heavy bird. I auto mine all the time and see no issue with its flight.

Thanks for the read…I hope this is helpful.

[Rob43]

Thanks kindly for your prompt reply. Much appreciated. RCHeli seemed to be very impressed with flgith characteristics like yourself. They made light of the airframe cost and much of it's excellent performance, superb quality and even liked the motor and esc recommended by Horizon. I think based on your feedback and that of another or two, if I opt to plung on the 500e, I'd go with a Scorpion motor and a superior esc such as CC or even the very decent Align 60. I really favor the precision stuff and the quest for silky smooth machinery. Flight normally comes with. I view the 500e much like a larger edition of the Beam E4. I noted the drive arrangement is virtually identical. I've never heard a poor review of the Beam yet, with people citing virtues much like that of this machine. With an orange canopy like the Beam factory option, it might even look like an older bro. LOL! Just can't decide if I want another 500 ep vs a larger machine, and at the same time, it would build for about the same dollars as a value priced 50n, or an Outrage 550. Apples oranges and bannanas comparison's I know, but it's all about finding what we dig on limited funds.

[GMRO]

I chose the Align 60 since it has a pretty good track record. In my experience with 450's my Align ESC's work very well. Add that you can set your BEC voltage, I chose 5.2v, on the Align and it really works well. Spool up is very very nice. I don't use gov's so can't comment on that. I have it set for heli soft start...and just flip to ID1 or 2 from dead stop. ESC does the rest!

I've got a CC or 2 in a 450 as well and they work well...just harder to program less the PC interface at the field. The Align is super easy to TX program.

Thanks!

[Rob43]

No, RCHeli made no mention of this error. My guess is they didn't build it. In fact, I am apt to conclude that they have someone build the heli's they review such as a factory rep who is already aware of the issue. Interesting that they didn't clarify the phasing pin issue a bit. I understand your response and can envision how this ocurrs. I really dug this bird when I saw it at Toledo, but still scratching my head about spending the loot for this airframe compared to the larger bird I could afford of the less expensive brands. Maybe they'll let me try some stick time to convince me...I think they did this last year for the Vibe 50. Just being close at hand to witness flight tells a lot too.

I plan to do some serious "window shopping" at IRCHA to examine this model more closely, as well as a few larger machines. I flew my Beam E4 and T-Rex 500ESP today, and with the wind, I could have used the confidence of a heavier bird with the power to reduce the effect of wind on my flying. Funny thing was I think it was the best day of flying I've had yet in spite of the breeze. The fun size of 500's makes the Vibe alluring. Just the same, I may look more closely at either a Vibe 50 or the new Outrage 50N. I am narrowed down to about 3 or 4 possible next projects including this one. I think the Outrage 550 would be a blast to fly as well, but I am almost to the point of either sticking with the 500 size for a while, or jumping to 50 nitro. Not sure. The 500's really handle the wind pretty well all things considered. I don't think our 10-15 mph breeze today was much of an effect on my buddy's 50 nitro's, whereas my Beam got pitched back at me a bit...glad I had some altitude during the tic toc! In between is the 500 size ship. Nice, fun size capable of excellent performance on affordable batteries. Have you flown the 500e in some significant wind yet? Would like to know how it handles it compared to my T-Rex 500. Every time I fly it, I am more impressed.

[GMRO]

Rob43,

Got it. I don't doubt that many publications don't actually build the kits... shame. When I review kits I do it all from build - select components etc...to flying. But to each his own.

I'm not headed to IRCHA this year or I'da let you have some stick time on my V500E. I have to stay home per a dog who just had major surgery and just can't be that far away while she recovers. BUT I'm sure you'll have a good time. I hope you get to see the heli up close and check it out again. It's a great heli, IMO. I ran the try the Vibe50 campaign last year @ IRCHA. We had a great group of folks who came up to wiggle the sticks on that heli. Not sure what they have planned this year as I'm not on the playbill...

I've had both my 450's and V500E out in steady winds of 15MPH or so. Sure the power is fine on both but the 500 really holds much better and handles it well IMO. Disk size and servo's prolly add to a 500's ability to cope with wind. I've not flown a Trex500, a buddy has one and I hope to try his and see how my V500E feels vs. it.

Good luck and thanks for reading!

[samscasa]

If this thread isn't dead, I have question about the Vibe 500e I am in the midst of building. Is is correct that when the swashplate goes up the blade pitch goes positive and when it goes down the blade pitch goes negative? If so, I cannot get my Spektrum 6100 Rx and DX6i Tx combo to program correctly. I can either adjust the radio to get the blade pitch correct but the cyclics are all backwards or adjust the radio the get the cyclics correct and then the swash is backwards.

I have the swash type set to 120 deg and am adjusting between the reverse menu and the swash mix menu to find a combo that works but have had no luck. It would work perfect if the swash mechanical action were reversed. Hence, I am questioning the mechanical action of the swash/blade pitch interaction. I have reviewed the ain rotor build instructions repeatedly, looked at pics online and it apprears to be assembled correctly but something is backwards.

Any help would be most appreciated!