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Old 07-02-2009, 03:15 AM   #41
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Right. I did NOT touch the temp probe wires, just the two pairs going to the valves and the one pair going to the fuel pump.
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:37 PM   #42
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Finally managed to get the clear on the canopy over the weekend, heres what she now looks like.







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Old 07-13-2009, 03:34 PM   #43
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Nice

Looks a real neat job.

MM
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:25 PM   #44
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Spent an intresting day at the field today, it was windy as hell, we reckon we were getting anywhere from 0-35 mph winds and totally inconsistant changing direction and strength continuously so you had to be on your toes as the helis were getting bounced about all over the place and the light was horrible at times going from bright sunshine to deep grey overcast which would put the heli into sillohette playing all sorts of tricks on your eyes and orientation.

Flew both the Avro and 700 Turbine, which again performed fautlessly. Did some duration testing on it today to find the flight time using my extended tank. It seems to have achieved what I wanted, 10 minute flight time including 30 second warm up and spool down, leaves around 1/2 inch of fuel in the main tank and the air trap full. So I'll set the timer for 10 minutes and use the last 1/2 inch for landing and spool down.
But it was like the old saying "Time flies when your having fun", as it only seemed around 5 minutes when i was flying.

Still no video Im affraid but have a few in flight stills on the way which I'll post when I get them.
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:27 PM   #45
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Here is an inflight picture taken yesterday. Don't you just love the heat haze out of the exhausts.

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Old 08-09-2009, 03:02 AM   #46
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Blew another gallon of fuel through the 700 yesterday and it again performed faultessly.
Only issue I've had so far is the tank that I joined, although it seemed OK and pressure tested fine, last time I flew i left around half an inch of fuel in the tank and after about a week and a half noticed i had a drip. Upon inspection found the fuel had leached past the joint.
So as an interim fix I used 2 700 tanks mounted side by side, but it worked so well I'll probably keep the twin tanks now as it also gives an extra minute of flight. Currently they are connected in series, as i was short a T-Piece/Y-Piece, but once I get hold of a connector I'll try them in parallel as the CoG shifts slightly in flight as the first tank in the line empties.
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:14 AM   #47
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It's hard to weld plastic without getting porosity and brittleness. Glade to see you are flying all weather endeavor though. ;-)
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:27 AM   #48
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Oh yes, fly all through the winter, Benny hat, fingerless gloves and warm up by the gas fire in the club shed, only time don't fly is in the rain. However yesterday was too perfect, dead calm and 25c. Find it odd actually flying in a dead calm as it seems strange not having to correct for the wind.
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Old 08-09-2009, 04:48 PM   #49
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Had my first flameout today luckily was only up around 8 feet just after take off checking the trim, so it got it back down in a mini Auto.
Checks afterwards revealed it was not the motors fault, but the operators, got disturbed whilst i was fuelling and DOH, forgot to put the cap back on to seal the fill tube, it sucked the air trap dry then cut. So I learnt 2 things today, dont forget to cap the fill tube and I have around 1.5 minutes of fuel in the air trap.
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:50 AM   #50
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I also had to RE-learn a valuable lesson on Saturday at IRCHA....

Do NOT forget to unplug the vent line before going flying...It only lasts about 3 minutes....
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:57 AM   #51
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Chris

From some of the videos that have been posted on here, by the Helifreak crew, IRCHA looks like it was a great event.
Wonder what sort of load you're little 'DOH' moment put on the pump and did it not flatten the airtrap.
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:17 PM   #52
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I flew it immediately after, and again later that day. Doesn't seem to have bothered either one...
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:33 PM   #53
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hi kevin,
we exchanged a few PMs.

My 44 will be here in about a month.

If you get the time, could you post a few good-res close up of the mod'ed parts of the frames;
the front of the side frames, lower base plate and anything else.

that would be really appreciated.

when I build mine, I will also take pic's and post them. that way others can benifit from this great mod

thanks!
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:20 PM   #54
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Tom

You'll love the 44, its a work of art, I'll see what I can sort out in the way of photos, however I know I don't have any of the components, so most of them will be in situ shots, but I should be able to create some basic diagrams of any bits where you need a bit more clarification.
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Old 10-13-2009, 04:34 PM   #55
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Just spent a couple of hours fitting the FAD 7.6:1 mod1 gear set, its tightened up the gear mesh no end, previously with the Microheli mod1 gears I had around 0.010" backlash, now its virtually nil and only just detectable. Will give it a run over the weekend and report back on the difference, based on initial calculations it should give somewhere around 1800 head speed, whereas before it was around 1650.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:13 PM   #56
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Be prepared to be AMAZED!!!
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:33 AM   #57
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hi kevin,

done 95% of the frame mod' on my t-rex 700. The 44 is in there now, looks good!

Went in very easily. Very easy mod to do.

Kevin.... my canopy is very tight, in fact I am not so sure I can use it, or maybe I will have to move the mounting bolts and trim here and there.
Which canopy are you using? If it's the 700, did you have to mod anything?


There's no way I can get the fan shroud in. The lower bolt clashes with the engine. Without that lower bolt the fan shorud will move and rub the fan. Simply won't fit.

I am hoping to do without the fan shroud (waiting for an email from wren on this). There is plenty of free are around the hot part. Plus on the Predator wren conversion there is no shroud, and most people don't even fit the fan.

(after all in the manual wren say that the fan shroud is not really to cool the engine as such, but to stop anything around it getting too hot).

I stuck some heat protection around the heli frame around the engine to stop any platic melting.
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:30 AM   #58
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Tom glad it went fairly easily, I had to grind a bit hear and there on the fan shroud and the ali spacer that goes through it, to get it in, took quite a bit of trial and error. Also my canopy is tight I had to move the front mounts down a bit and trim a bit off the lower edge to get a bit of clearence around the front of the frame and legs. I actually used the front fan shroud mount for the canopy posts. Used Red loctite to screw a long grub screw into the ali canopy post leving around 10mm protruding. Once set, the post is then screwed in to hold the fan shroud as well.
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Old 10-16-2009, 11:48 AM   #59
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I did it without the fan shroud as well. There is no reason to add this part as the gear box is liquid cooled from the inside and outside air provides minimal cooling.

Michael

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcarpenter View Post
There's no way I can get the fan shroud in. The lower bolt clashes with the engine. Without that lower bolt the fan shorud will move and rub the fan. Simply won't fit.

I am hoping to do without the fan shroud (waiting for an email from wren on this). There is plenty of free are around the hot part. Plus on the Predator wren conversion there is no shroud, and most people don't even fit the fan.

(after all in the manual wren say that the fan shroud is not really to cool the engine as such, but to stop anything around it getting too hot).

I stuck some heat protection around the heli frame around the engine to stop any platic melting.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:47 PM   #60
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i've trimmed all I can and there is no way the fan shroud is going on,
and from what I read here, else where and in the manual it is not essential for the shroud.
The engine won't get damaged; just ensure the frame doesn't melt!

I put metal heat shield tape on the underside of the electronics box thing, and on the inside of the heli frame that goes around the middle hot part of the engine.



Engine in. next job is top plumb the fuel lines in.
I took a few build pictures, I just need to figure out how to add photo's to posts!
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