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Old 11-22-2009, 06:34 PM   #1
Holmquist
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Default Aligns Super Starter...

Is the Align Super Starter worth buying or is there a good reason why I should consider another? Thanks

Austin
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:38 PM   #2
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was using a Sullivan Dynatron running on a old 6s pack Worked great for starting my 90s but was heavy and I got sick of the switch sticking. I bought the Align starter and love it. Super light plenty of tourque to start a 90 and uses a relatively cheap 3s pack for power. Have mine since early October. Hope it holds up in the long run as the Dynatron is definatley built better but thats where the weight comes from. Also love the carrying case it comes with.
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:47 PM   #3
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Sweet glad to hear. This would be my first starter and it will be for a OS .37 so I'm just makin sure there is not something that I am over looking.

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Old 11-22-2009, 06:53 PM   #4
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Great starter overall. The shaft can get hung up in some starter couplers though, I was told by another flyer at a funfly that they fixed that problem. I don't trust Align batterys though, I would steer clear of the combo that comes with the lipo. my glow driver actuall fits in the case right next to the starter also, one less thing to remember.

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Old 11-22-2009, 06:57 PM   #5
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I'd put it this way:

If you are new to Nitros, and need a starter, try the Align.

If you are in need of a new starter because your existing starter died, get the Align AND some new starter couplers for your models.

If you have a good starter that's working for you, keep it.

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Old 11-22-2009, 08:45 PM   #6
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I bought mine as soon as it came out and it has been great so far. I have only charged the battery once since I bought it, and I only have an 1800mah batt in it. I bought it because I was weary of using a cordless drill and was in the market for a starter and the Align came out in the nick of time. Had it not been for the Align, I probably would have just kept using the drill rather than cobble something together.
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErichF View Post
I'd put it this way:

If you are new to Nitros, and need a starter, try the Align.

If you are in need of a new starter because your existing starter died, get the Align AND some new starter couplers for your models.

If you have a good starter that's working for you, keep it.

Erich
I bought one recently from GrandRC during its Black Friday sale. I see now why you need couplers. This thing is like an impact drill. It is smooth and true until you stick it into the coupler. Sounds rough and feels like it wants to wreck the coupler. Is this normal?
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:27 PM   #8
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Default Yes...........

It's normal. It's a gear driven system and is nothing like the other direct motor spin starters. It sometimes reminds me of a hammer drill and I know of an airplane version starting a 50cc monster plank so torque is not going to be a problem.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:05 PM   #9
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It is like a hammer drill under load and destroyed several starter shafts on my Kasama srimok but that is more because the starter shafts are soft and the coupling design bad, than the fault of the starter.

the battery compartment is a bit too small for the 3s cells you might have lying around. I had to really jam mine into it.

otherwise, it feels solid and does the job. I charge it without taking the battery out, the balance lead and deans are accessible.
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:52 PM   #10
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I got one to start my trex 700 turns it over like its a 30 size motor i have a yak 50cc gaser going to try it on to see if it will start it like they say but first have to buy the planker set up
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Old 12-03-2009, 05:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
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It's normal. It's a gear driven system and is nothing like the other direct motor spin starters. It sometimes reminds me of a hammer drill and I know of an airplane version starting a 50cc monster plank so torque is not going to be a problem.
Ed
It's bad on my vibe, a little tolerable on the 700. But still, me thinks it could damage something just by using this.
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Old 12-03-2009, 06:40 PM   #12
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I will say it seems slightly jack-hammery on my 50, but I have several gallons worth of starts on it with no signs of wear or damage at all. Being that it is cold now, I have to crank more, but ut still starts fine. In the summer it started fast. Could be a factor of the battery being used too. If a tired, low C battery is used, it will crank slower than a fresher higher amp battery does, I saw that when trying different batteries I had. It is awesome on my Outrage bat, and I will probably put that one in and treat myself to some new batts for the 450 in the spring. For now, the Air Thunder 1800 in it now is working pretty good considering that is under the recommended minimum mah for the starter.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:11 AM   #13
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I will say it seems slightly jack-hammery on my 50, but I have several gallons worth of starts on it with no signs of wear or damage at all. Being that it is cold now, I have to crank more, but ut still starts fine. In the summer it started fast. Could be a factor of the battery being used too. If a tired, low C battery is used, it will crank slower than a fresher higher amp battery does, I saw that when trying different batteries I had. It is awesome on my Outrage bat, and I will probably put that one in and treat myself to some new batts for the 450 in the spring. For now, the Air Thunder 1800 in it now is working pretty good considering that is under the recommended minimum mah for the starter.
I did a little experiment with the starter. I wanted to see if the the hammering on the starter is transferred to the coupler down to the bearing and bearing block. It does not. I can feel no vibration/hammering on the bearing block. So I guess there is no unwanted hammering on the heli itself.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:15 AM   #14
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I have to have one.

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Old 12-04-2009, 07:32 AM   #15
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I did a little experiment with the starter. I wanted to see if the the hammering on the starter is transferred to the coupler down to the bearing and bearing block. It does not. I can feel no vibration/hammering on the bearing block. So I guess there is no unwanted hammering on the heli itself.
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Whatever you feel going on in your hand holding the starter, is also happening inside your engine. The crank, conrod, and wrist pin are what takes the stress, not your bearing block or crank bearings.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:51 AM   #16
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For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Whatever you feel going on in your hand holding the starter, is also happening inside your engine. The crank, conrod, and wrist pin are what takes the stress, not your bearing block or crank bearings.
Then again, with every revolution of the crankshaft while running, an explosion occurs between the head and the piston and transmits that shock into all of those components. This is normal, and the engine is designed to handle it.
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:56 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyc863 View Post
It is like a hammer drill under load and destroyed several starter shafts on my Kasama srimok but that is more because the starter shafts are soft and the coupling design bad, than the fault of the starter.
A friend at my field was disappointed because the shaft was so soft. He had a really hard time on a Raptor (I think), so he "upgraded" his starter to the Align, which promptly rounded out.

By the coupling design, you're talking about the joint between the shaft and the starter? Or the socket on the heli? What coupling would be better? I'll pass the info on.
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ErichF View Post
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Whatever you feel going on in your hand holding the starter, is also happening inside your engine. The crank, conrod, and wrist pin are what takes the stress, not your bearing block or crank bearings.
Yeah, that isn't even a factor. The engine parts see more stress in 17,000 rpm operation than from a starter.

Reminds me of the debate over transom savers on outboard boats. People insisted that while driving down the highway with the outboard in the up position on the trailer that it was over stressing the transom. What they failed to understand was the transom sees a lot more stress when the boat is running in rough water and that outboard is constantly leveraging the transom while under way. But you couldn't convince them that a transom saver is a useless fear driven marketing gimmick.
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:01 AM   #19
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I just want to be certain I am not killing the heli with this thing. Been reading about couplers and starter shafts breaking.
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:05 PM   #20
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Default I look at it this way.........

I have to carry way to much crap to the field when I want to fly. Any reduction in size and weight of equipment and yet remains reliable is a positive thing. I just love when it takes me 15 minutes to unload my gear to fly a heli for 12 minutes, but I guess that's all part of the game and with any luck, I may even get multiple flights.
Ed
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