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Old 03-20-2010, 10:34 PM   #161
jauguston
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If any of you have been reading speculation that a Hitec HSG 5084 MG is not supposed to be used on 6v I e-mailed Hitec tech support and they say 6v is fine.

I am wading through the Aurura 9 manual and setting it up in one of my 450's. This is one amazing radio!!

Jim
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:55 PM   #162
rotorfan
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Hoverless were about in washington are you? Im in Port Orchard (its near Gig Harbor)
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Old 04-11-2010, 06:52 PM   #163
CPV2
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Update on the EXI 500;

As some of you may have read that my ESC went up in smoke a few weeks ago.
Got around to installing it last weekend and come to find out that when it smoked, it took out my Logictech 6100 gyro and servo.

Contacted Logictech and will have to send both in to Korea to see if they will warranty them.

My Kyosho 700 build I am going with all JR servos and gyro cause the warranty is good.
I had two DS285's that stripped the gears in a crash, replaced the gears and both still did not work.
Contacted Horizon Hobby(JR warranty dealer) and told them that they went bad after the crashes, sent them in and received two brand new DS285's, no charge , now that is service.

I hope I can get that kind of service from Logictech...

Clarence
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Old 04-24-2010, 12:55 PM   #164
JimmyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPV2 View Post
Jim;

Remember when we used to pack car and truck front tapered wheel bearings by hand when we did not have a bearing packer ?

Clean the bearing you are going to pack.
Put a glob of grease in one palm.
Take the bearing by the other hand and smack/ push the bearing into your palm of grease and keep doing it all the way around the bearing, basically hydraulicing the grease through the bearing until it comes out the other side.

Since these heli bearings are small, I just dab grease on my index finger while holding the bearing in my other fingers and poke the grease through.(poke, poke poke, add more grease and poke, poke poke like you are poking someone in the chest).
Probably takes me 5-10 minutes to do a bearing, but that is what it is.

These bearings on heli's are not sealed, you can pack/ hydraulic the grease through them.

I use a military grade lubriplate that is just thick enough to stay in the bearing and does not sling.

Hope this helps.

Clarence
Clarence great right up,I have been looking into a 500 and might look into the EXI,they have them on for a decent price right now.
You might look into fasteners from a industrial supply company if you are having problems with shearing bolts,you can buy grade 12.9 in bulk(50pcs) for almost the same price as a few from the OEM,I think I did
2-450s for just under $15,this including 100 2mm nuts,not really sure the strength of stainless hardware,always thought it was around a grade 5 bolt.
I use to remove the little clip on the outer race holding the shield in place and remove one shield and grease them this way when I ran cars but with the 450 they are getting way too small to handle.
Found this a few years ago and makes the job alot easier...

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/kevin.maxfield/greaser.htm

James..
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Old 04-24-2010, 10:08 PM   #165
jauguston
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Something else I have learned related to small screws stripping out trying to remove them. In many cases blue loctite is too strong for the tiny screws we deal with. I found Permatex brand purple low strength #24024 is perfect for the small screws. It holds but will release before you strip the head out. With two 450's and a 500 I have never had one come loose and never had to resort to heat to get things apart.

Jim
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Old 04-25-2010, 05:52 AM   #166
CyprusDave
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Or use Locktite 222, which is also purple, and designed for screws of 6mm or less. Hard to find though, most places only stock the common blue Locktite 242 or 243, and the high-strength red Locktite 262
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:10 AM   #167
jauguston
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I think the 24024 Permatex and the Loctite 222 are the same product. The story I heard was that Loctite brand was purchased by Permatex some years ago then recently Loctite brand separated from Permatex and are now independent again.

It is not easy to find as you say but is really a good option for what we need.

Jim
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:37 AM   #168
SpeedDemon
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I know this thread is old, but thought I would chime in on the tail grip bolt breaking issue.

I myself have experienced this on my EXI 450 SE v2...twich actually. What I have found is that IF you tighten the screws that connect each grip to the slider too tight...it will cause the bolt to break (note: not the bolt that connects the grip to the hub itself).

I have found a tail assembly which looks like either an aftermarket upgrade 450 piece, or quite possibly a 500 tail assy (I say this because the links in the pic are aluminum and stock 450's have plasic links).

Im sure that putting in a better grade bolt will surely help the situation...but still, one needs to be aware of just how tight the linkage points are attached. This is definitely a part that needs locktite...because if you try to tighten it to the point it wont come "undone" ...it will bind and break...causing the tail grip to come apart in a ballistic fashion.

I have a 500 CF on order now...was the reason I found this thread as I like to get my reading done while waiting. Lots of good info here that I am sure to find useful once I start my 500 build. Thanks to all the contributors.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:45 PM   #169
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thanks for the useful build info clarence,
I'm putting an exi 500 together right now, went through the tail to loctite everything and 1 bolt that holds the tailblade holder to the center piece snapped right off.
Well I got an align one on order to replace it with, AND I did replace the main gears too because the jesus bolt went in at an ange and the taildrive gear was wobbling real bad. I'm currently waiting on cyclic servo's(ds510) so I can get it set up.
I made it to pg 4 or 5 on this build and I will read some more tonight.
again, thanks for the helpful info, rich
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