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HBFP V1/V2 E-Sky Honey Bee V1 & V2 Fixed Pitch


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Old 12-26-2009, 01:20 PM   #1
Viet-Lama
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Default Main motor stopped working? KING 2 ESC!

If your flying your HoneyBee V1 or V2 and the motor suddenly quits in flight you may have just blown the main motors ESC (Electronic Speed Controller)
If you crash and do not cut the throttle quick enough you can also destroy the main motors ESC. When the ESC’s chips (called mosfets) blow its usually followed by an electronic burning smell and a little smoke.
Conduct this test to make sure your main motors ESC is blown and not just the motor itself.
Plug the tail motor (TM) into the main motor (MM) slot of the 4in1, does it work? Now plug the MM into the TM slot. If the MM works in the TM slot but the TM doesn’t work in the MM slot then you have officially blown your 4in1s MM ESC.
There are two cures for this, one, buy a new 4in1 which cost around $50. Second option is add an external ESC which will bypass the internal ESC.
I prefer the Esky King 2 ESC for several reasons, its small, lightweight, cheap, powerful and works great. This can bee purchased from DX for only $8.33 with free shipping to the US and the UK. $8.33 sure beats $50 +
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15581

The down side is DX takes up to 3 weeks to receive your order. If you want one right away you can order from here.
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/ek2-...20-p-2953.html

Others stated Fast Lad ships very quickly. Costs a little more plus shipping charges but worth it when you need it in a hurry.

Is there an advantage to the external ESC over the fuse mod?

Yes, the fuse mod only protects the internal ESC of the 4in1, it doesnt raise its power level. The Bee V1 internal ESC blows at 9amps and the V2 I believe at 11 amps. The King 2 ESC can safely run up to 20 amps.
With this external ESC you can run 3 cell lipos in the Bee V1 or safely run the Xtreme 380 with 2cell lipos (do not run the Xtreme 380 with 3 cell lipos!)
On a Bee V2 you can feel at ease knowing the heli wont suddenly drop from the sky as V2’s have been reported to blow the MM ESC during mid flight using the stock lipo and configuration.


Do I need a fuse mod with the King ESC?
A fuse mod cant hurt. If you’re a new pilot you may crash and forget to cut throttle which can still damage the King 2 ESC. If installing a fuse mod use a mini “quick blow” auto fuse. The King 2 ESC runs up to 20 amps so a 15 or 17amp fuse will protect it without ever blowing during mid flight.

OK, now that you know the symptoms and the cure lets continue with the 4in1 hack.

I will demonstrate both solder and solderless methods. I prefer the solder method as its more durable and if I ever need to replace the external ESC the 4in1 section becomes “plug and play”.

This hack is actually pretty simple, dont let the lengthy tutorial scare you. I went into greater detail then necessary for those a bit worried about working with electronics. Besides you were going to throw it away anyways right. LOL

KING 2 BRUSHED ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROLLER



First remove the 4 tiny screws holding the 4in1 together and separate all the parts as shown here.



Solderless will bee working with the left section and Solder method will bee working with the receiver on the right (shown below)



SOLDERLESS METHOD:
Snip off the servo plug on the 3 wired lead and expose a small and equal length portion of each wire. Twist each braided wire for strength and stick into the black box (THE TOP AS SHOWN) that coincides with the circuit board labeled R3 (row 3) Place the wires BLACK – RED – WHITE from the outside working in.







Now simply reassemble your 4in1, the hack is already almost completed!
(note: you will have to cut away some of the 4in1s plastic housing to accommodate the wires)
Reassembled 4in1 shown without case



Skip to REASSEMBLE THE 4IN1:


SOLDER METHOD:
You will bee removing the short pins on the circuit board labeled R3 and replacing them with longer pins that run equal length to the other side.

To remove the old pins place the iron on the weld while lightly pulling on the pin with pliers.



Heres the board with all 3 pins removed.



CREATE NEW PINS: I chose to use a large paperclip but it’s a snug fit, a small paper clip is easier to fit through the circuit board and plastic housing.
Snip the paper clip to a length equal to the pins on both sides as shown here (make 3 pin)




MOUNT NEW PINS: Place a drop of solder on the irons tip. The solder helps transfer the heat and also flows into the circuit board for a secure connection.
Hold the pin with pliers and press in with gentle continuous force while holding the iron close to the board. When properly heated the pin will slide right into place.


WORK FROM THE BOTTOM PIN UP SO YOU DON’T BLOCK YOUR WORKING AREA. ALSO BEE CAREFUL NOT TO MELT THE OTHER CONNECTIONS.




Here are all 3 pins securely soldered in place. Scrape off any excess solder blobs as you see on the top left pin



REASSEMBLE THE 4IN1: (solder method) Snip off the plastic “bridge” on the 4in1s case then plug in the servo lead from the ESC



Splice together the 4in1 battery lead and the ESCs battery lead
Make sure you connect the wires BLACK TO BLACK and RED TO RED then heat shrink each wire. (I also used a large heat shrink as a finish cover)



CONNECT THE MOTOR: Heres a trick, if you replace the black plug with a JST you can then change stock V1 / V2 motors or the Xtreme 380 just by plugging them in.
I retained the black plug as I wanted to test the King 2 motor.



FINAL ASSEMBLY: As they say a picture is worth a thousands words.



TEST RUN:

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Last edited by Viet-Lama; 12-26-2009 at 02:21 PM..
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Old 12-26-2009, 02:34 PM   #2
ferrettmerr
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Awesome job!!!!!

I plan to be doing this soon, will definitely post feedback.

Thanks so much again VL.
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Old 12-26-2009, 04:39 PM   #3
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Yes, awesome is the word VL. A lot of time and effort gone into that my friend.
I will be doing this mod. Thank you so much for sharing
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2 x Nano heli's - now passed on to Megan, HoneyBee V1.....Awaiting test flight, T-Rex 250 V1, Hitec 5084MG tail servo, DX6i, Walkera 4#3A (it's in fairly good hands Bugster).
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:37 AM   #4
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brilliant thank you as soon as i have built the 450 i will do this mod i allready have the parts.Maybe you should publish an HBFP magazine i'd buy it cheers
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Old 12-27-2009, 05:08 AM   #5
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When the super sticky is up and running.......you know what I'm gonna say
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2 x Nano heli's - now passed on to Megan, HoneyBee V1.....Awaiting test flight, T-Rex 250 V1, Hitec 5084MG tail servo, DX6i, Walkera 4#3A (it's in fairly good hands Bugster).
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Old 12-27-2009, 05:33 AM   #6
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Brilliant thread VL and a pleasure to sticky
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Old 12-27-2009, 06:50 AM   #7
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Thanks for the kind words my friends.
I figured with all the new HoneyBees bought on Christmas I needed to get this tutorial finished.
I was actually going to do a mini "sub tutorial" on splicing the two battery leads without having to touch a knife or snippers, the only thing you need is heat shrink.
Ill add it another day if you guys want.
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Old 12-27-2009, 07:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viet-Lama View Post
I was actually going to do a mini "sub tutorial" on splicing the two battery leads without having to touch a knife or snippers, the only thing you need is heat shrink.
Ill add it another day if you guys want.
Yes we want

In my experience many owners do not want to solder nor have they the kit to do it so any solderless repair will be popular.
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viet-Lama View Post
I was actually going to do a mini "sub tutorial" on splicing the two battery leads without having to touch a knife or snippers, the only thing you need is heat shrink.
Ill add it another day if you guys want.
FANTASTIC JOB VL
two questions though and they may be pretty dumb

how do you and what is "heat shrink" ?
is it easy to change a battery connector ?

forget the fact that i`ve had my `Bee` for 2yrs :o i know jacks##t about the tech side
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugster View Post

In my experience many owners do not want to solder nor have they the kit to do it so any solderless repair will be popular.
i do have a big thick old solder Chief but i don`t like using it the last time i used the solder it made a loud bang(whilst i was holding it )and all the plug sockets tripped off
so as you`ll probably be able to tell i`m not keen on soldering
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:45 PM   #11
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Get a fuse mod for it 247..PDQ!!

Heat shrink is black tubing you put over joints. You heat it with a lighter or heatgun and it shrinks tight over the joint and insulates it. Maplins sell it in lenghts in different sizes. Also good for removing the ratchet on your throttle stick, which I'll explain in my video later.
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If you make a mistake and learn from it, that's progress


2 x Nano heli's - now passed on to Megan, HoneyBee V1.....Awaiting test flight, T-Rex 250 V1, Hitec 5084MG tail servo, DX6i, Walkera 4#3A (it's in fairly good hands Bugster).
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oliverdots View Post
Heat shrink is black tubing you put over joints. You heat it with a lighter or heatgun and it shrinks tight over the joint and insulates it.


which I'll explain in my video later.
so i won`t need the old soldering gun for the heat shrink then

what video i do like a nice "video"
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:57 PM   #13
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Excellent mod VL. Thank for posting!!
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Old 12-28-2009, 04:04 PM   #14
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Congrats on it becoming a sticky VL. So deserved and so useful for a long time to come
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If you make a mistake and learn from it, that's progress


2 x Nano heli's - now passed on to Megan, HoneyBee V1.....Awaiting test flight, T-Rex 250 V1, Hitec 5084MG tail servo, DX6i, Walkera 4#3A (it's in fairly good hands Bugster).
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:39 AM   #15
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V-L, just one question.Why do you still connect the Rx ch3 to the 4in1, why not connect it directly to the King ESC ?
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:11 AM   #16
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The way I show is the easiest and strongest connection weather solderless or solder method.
Solder method the pins do not have to protrude to the left side (left as shown in pic) of the 4in1 but you still have to solder the pins to the right side. If you didnt make the pins as long they wouldnt fit into the black box thus providing the added strength. They would just bee held by the thin circuit board and tiny amount of solder.
The original pins must bee removed and replaced to the other side anyway, making them longer makes the entire proceedure much more durable.
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:27 AM   #17
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Hey after I do this mod, would the performance be better with 3 cell lipo's and the stock motor or with the 380XC and 2 cell lipos? And hows about that king motor?

Thanks
J.R.
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Old 12-31-2009, 12:40 AM   #18
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You get much more power with a 3cell lipo and stock motor, afterall thats the difference between the V1 and V2. The V2 uses the same stock motor as the V1, only the 3cell lipo and larger current ESC in the V2s 4in1 make the difference.

With 2cell lipos and 380XC I couldnt tell a difference in performance. The difference is you wont have to worry about the heli dropping from the sky.

I havent tried the King 2 motor yet. Both my bees are up and running with other configurations. The only reason I even bought the King 2 ESC was to do the tutorial for you guys.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:34 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viet-Lama View Post
The way I show is the easiest and strongest connection weather solderless or solder method.
Solder method the pins do not have to protrude to the left side (left as shown in pic) of the 4in1 but you still have to solder the pins to the right side. If you didnt make the pins as long they wouldnt fit into the black box thus providing the added strength. They would just bee held by the thin circuit board and tiny amount of solder.
The original pins must bee removed and replaced to the other side anyway, making them longer makes the entire proceedure much more durable.
I thought so too. Just in case there is a short in the ESC or FET, maybe only 2 wires protrude to the left side, negative and signal.

Good job anyway
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Old 12-31-2009, 08:10 AM   #20
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Thank you very much
I didn't think it would be so simple

but could i put a brushless ESC the same way?

I thought if your hacking it, why not make it brushless along the way
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HBFP V1/V2 E-Sky Honey Bee V1 & V2 Fixed Pitch

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