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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-15-2010, 05:39 PM   #1
esmoglo
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Default G-Force Bearing Blocks?

Has anyone here tried the G-Force bearing blocks with thrust bearings? Are they any good? Just let me know.


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Old 01-15-2010, 06:24 PM   #2
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In two words yes and yes
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:03 PM   #3
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I love mine....
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:26 PM   #4
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I noticed the difference right off the bat. Excellent upgrade
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:29 AM   #5
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Do you guys have the v1 or v2? How do you change the radial bearings when they are due? Heat it in an oven like when doing a bearing change on an engine? Are the the radial and thrust bearings generic / availble through e.g rc-bearings.com?

I'll recieve my set of v2 blocks in two weeks time! Hoping for an extra second hang time in autos :-)
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:45 AM   #6
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Ok so its a good upgrade overall. My thing is how do the thrust bearings stay in place? I have the blocks now and they look like a loose fit....I have the Align metal blocks now and I will remove them today and install the G-Force ones.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:58 AM   #7
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Bad news for me I guess I tried fitting the new G-Force Heli Bearings blocks in my Trex 600 NSP and they will not work with the forward Elevator Arm (same as Trex 700) The arm hits the blocks because they are just too wide/fat. This sucks there was no warring on the package stating that they would not fit a Trex 600 NSP. I am a bit ticked off to tell yea the truth I paid $47 for them and now they are Useless to me now.


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Old 01-16-2010, 07:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esmoglo View Post
Bad news for me I guess I tried fitting the new G-Force Heli Bearings blocks in my Trex 600 NSP and they will not work with the forward Elevator Arm (same as Trex 700) The arm hits the blocks because they are just too wide/fat. This sucks there was no warring on the package stating that they would not fit a Trex 600 NSP. I am a bit ticked off to tell yea the truth I paid $47 for them and now they are Useless to me now.

Some guy here had a similar issue with 600LE which comes with the elevator arm upgrade. I beleive someone came up with a solution involving some filing. here is.

http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=175986
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:30 AM   #9
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they work fine you just have to be creative

i took a dremel and cleaned up the bearing block with a dremel for clearence. i took it rite to the outer bearing race. i had to clean up just a hair of the end of the arm more of a slight angle. moved the whole arm over less then a mm and away i went.

First let me state im not impressed at all with Gforces design,,, i dont believe the thrust bearings are ment to run at 2200 rpm constantly. i wish they put the thrust bearings on the inside not the outside
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:42 AM   #10
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I must have an earlier version of them. I am running the metal elevator arm upgrade and they don't hit anything at all.. Mine are kind of "X" shaped...
Out house, If they were on the inside, what good would they be?
The bearing is designed to take the load of the gear or the shaft collar when your upright or inverted. I think it's a good design..
I use a little triflo grease on mine and grease them every 2 gallons, and there is usually grease still in them. Bearings have over 10 gallons worth of flights on them and they are as smooth as the day they were purchased.
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashagain View Post
I must have an earlier version of them. I am running the metal elevator arm upgrade and they don't hit anything at all.. Mine are kind of "X" shaped...
Out house, If they were on the inside, what good would they be?
The bearing is designed to take the load of the gear or the shaft collar when your upright or inverted. I think it's a good design..
I use a little triflo grease on mine and grease them every 2 gallons, and there is usually grease still in them. Bearings have over 10 gallons worth of flights on them and they are as smooth as the day they were purchased.
almost ever other bearing block with thrust are designed with the thrust on the inside. supporting the inner race and it protects the bearing in wrecks and still handles side loads.

mine are not X shaped more I beam shaped with a circle in the middle.

hey if the thrust bearings last the year or even 6 months without wrecking ill be happy and ill change my stance, i just dont see that happening at the rpm there spinning
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:53 AM   #12
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Well its rather unsettling to have to dremil/grind a brand new parts (bearing blocks), I think the KDE blocks would have been a better choice since there is an indentation for the upper block. I will just put these in the for sale section and get the KDE ones. FYI these are the newer G-Force bearing blocks and it will take a lot of dremiling to get them to fit the NSP and I just can’t bring myself to do it. Perhaps there was a tolerance issue when these were made who knows, I have alot of G-Force stuff like fans, and frame support kits and they all fit like a glove except for these.
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:43 PM   #13
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i understand, when i bouth the heli it only had the lower gforce block in it and a stock plastic one up top lol.

i assure you it only takes a little dremel work to get it to clear and it doesnt hurt the design at all and you cant see the dremel work once installed.

if you want ill post a pic of the finished instalation.
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Old 01-17-2010, 02:50 PM   #14
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I dremeled mine too!
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:08 PM   #15
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Me to
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotorholic View Post
I noticed the difference right off the bat. Excellent upgrade
Can you explain what exactly is the difference? I just don't know what would be the improvement compared to the Align alluminium bearing blocks...
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:04 PM   #17
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Got that from G-Force reviews

Once you've accomplished this, there is only one small thing left to do which consists in checking the clearance between the elevator arm and the top bearing block. G-Force recommends adjusting the elevator position to achieve the desired clearance but I didn't want to change my elevator link geometry and since only the top of the elevator arm was slightly rubbing against the block, I choose to file the top corner of the arm (see picture 8). The clearance is now perfect for me.
The entire installation procedure takes a little over 10 minutes even if you are extremely careful and slow like myself.

http://www.helituning.com/images/sto...ks/g5/file.jpg
http://www.helituning.com/images/sto...g5/install.jpg

Pros
reduces frame flex
no lateral inserts make it much easier to line up the frames
reduces drag on the main shaft thus increasing engine performance and auto-rotation capabilities
since the thrust bearings take out the axial loads, the radial bearings last much longer
super quality finish. Better than anything else I've ever seen
Cons
even unnecessary, a 3rd bearing block (even with only a radial bearing) would be nice
installation isn't straight forward so one actually needs to read the manual
price (even though once you've tried them out you won't want anything else)
Final Considerations

I like metal parts even if they are pretty useless performance wise (also known as Bling) however, I think that G-Force has once again hit the nail on the head by supplying a product that not only looks as good as my wife's jewelry but also adds important improvements over the stock part. Anyone that thinks that these upgrades will only add unnecessary weight should think twice because the total added weight is 2.4gr... thats the same as 3 extra inches of servo wire or 5 squashed bugs on your blades(!). The added structural rigidity, the lower drag under load on the main shaft and the improvement in engine response alone justify the price of this upgrade. If I had another 600N, I would have ordered another set right away.
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-CC ICE50,Scorp2221-8+12T,Sonix Head&Tail,5A BEC,HS65HB,Quark+3500G,AR7000,Align Carbon blades,TRex500 Skids,Flymentor.
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