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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-19-2010, 07:59 PM   #1
HeLiJerSey
 

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Default DS610s on cyclic issues

i have a question for people who are using Align ds610s for cyclics.
when installing them on the Align servo horn does the ball link rub on the servo?
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:20 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by HeLiJerSey View Post
i have a question for people who are using Align ds610s for cyclics.
when installing them on the Align servo horn does the ball link rub on the servo?
I have clearance, not much but I can see daylight
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Old 01-19-2010, 09:55 PM   #3
HeLiJerSey
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I have clearance, not much but I can see daylight
how much clearance do you have,nightflyer? i am guessing enough not hitting the servo label. :notew orthy

what is that sig you have, you have to earn it i would say.
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:43 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by HeLiJerSey View Post
i have a question for people who are using Align ds610s for cyclics.
when installing them on the Align servo horn does the ball link rub on the servo?
There's just a ray of light shining through between the servo plate and the ball. So, no problem there!

What I did find as a problem was ball links rubbing against the servo wheels. Servos are sitting too low and the links end up pointing just a tad outwards. I had to install one or two CF spacers between servo and the frame to get the links straight (parallel to frame) and stop the ball link ends rubbing the servo wheel.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:38 AM   #5
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how much clearance do you have,nightflyer? i am guessing enough not hitting the servo label. :notew orthy

what is that sig you have, you have to earn it i would say.
Just enough to get 2 strips of paper through
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:18 AM   #6
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Good observation,just checked mine,one hits the label enough to mar it up a bit.Cant really feel it dragging but it is.The other misses it .
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:37 AM   #7
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I had the same problem with my 600cf. Installed a set of the carbon spacers along with the plastic set I already had in there and now it's good to go. At least this is an easy fix..
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:33 PM   #8
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I had the same problem with my 600cf. Installed a set of the carbon spacers along with the plastic set I already had in there and now it's good to go. At least this is an easy fix..
How does a spacer/shim between the servo and frame prevent the ball from rubbing on the servo?
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:43 PM   #9
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How does a spacer/shim between the servo and frame prevent the ball from rubbing on the servo?
It's not the ball..the ball link..inorder for it not to rub it needs to be almost perfectly 90
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:28 PM   #10
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i have the same issue. having read Nighflyers frequently asked questions thread i put some spacers tell the rods were at square to the frame. the odd thing is that one side took 2 spacers and the other only took one. i checked the bell cranks and they are the same distance from the frame so the only thing i could think of is that the servo horns sit further down on the servo. i have not confirmed this but i cant think of anything else. with the spacers i now have clearance. but what i did not like was i had to move the elevator arm over a bit to make those arms clear. now that is not centered. my question is how far off is going to make a difference as far as cyclic response? it has been pouring here so i have only got to hover her in the garage so i cant tell much.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:38 PM   #11
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i have the same issue. having read Nighflyers frequently asked questions thread i put some spacers tell the rods were at square to the frame. the odd thing is that one side took 2 spacers and the other only took one. i checked the bell cranks and they are the same distance from the frame so the only thing i could think of is that the servo horns sit further down on the servo. i have not confirmed this but i cant think of anything else. with the spacers i now have clearance. but what i did not like was i had to move the elevator arm over a bit to make those arms clear. now that is not centered. my question is how far off is going to make a difference as far as cyclic response? it has been pouring here so i have only got to hover her in the garage so i cant tell much.
Do you have the bell crack shims in place???
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:49 PM   #12
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Just like you said to i had to check them 2 or 3 times when i was fist building it to get it just right.
and as for the elevator i am still in the grooved out section but it is 2mm closer to the left side of the bird then the right.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:44 PM   #13
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On mine with the align 610 servos the ball links rub the case pretty bad, I had to put a small washer inside the servo wheel to space the wheel out about 1mm from the servo so the ball link would clear the case without rubbing it. I will go check to see if the linkages are square and see if that will fix the issue. If not, I may try ordering a set of Quick UK servo wheels to see if that helps. The ball links clear with the washer in the servo horn itself, but not the fix I really want to live with since I give up about 1mm of spline doing it this way.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:50 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Trnquill View Post
There's just a ray of light shining through between the servo plate and the ball. So, no problem there!

What I did find as a problem was ball links rubbing against the servo wheels. Servos are sitting too low and the links end up pointing just a tad outwards. I had to install one or two CF spacers between servo and the frame to get the links straight (parallel to frame) and stop the ball link ends rubbing the servo wheel.
I Used Futaba BLS451s in my 600ESp, and I had to put 3mm spacers between the servo flanges and the frame, as the servos hit each other in the middle otherwise. I made my own spacers out of scrap plastic, since they don't ship with the ESP. The ball links are really well aligned though. I guess the 610s must be a little shorter than the 451s.

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Old 01-20-2010, 03:53 PM   #15
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It is very very very tight. I cannot put two piecs of paper between it. You need to remove the plastic cover from the Align logo. You don't have this issue with Futaba servos. Maybe you have also noticed that the DS610s do not lign up correctly in the holes. The holes are measured for Futaba sized servos.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:58 PM   #16
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On mine with the align 610 servos the ball links rub the case pretty bad, I had to put a small washer inside the servo wheel to space the wheel out about 1mm from the servo so the ball link would clear the case without rubbing it. I will go check to see if the linkages are square and see if that will fix the issue. If not, I may try ordering a set of Quick UK servo wheels to see if that helps. The ball links clear with the washer in the servo horn itself, but not the fix I really want to live with since I give up about 1mm of spline doing it this way.
I just got a set of the QUK metal wheels for my 700N, but I'm a little disappointed in them. They are beautifully made, but they have 10 sets of holes instead of 8, and on Futaba/Align servos, this turns out to be bad. Futaba uses 25 splines on the servo output shaft, so the Align 8 position wheel gives you 200 possible servo wheel positions, so you can get within about 1.5 degrees of neutral without using sub-trim. On the QUKs, the 10 sets of holes ends up giving you only a few possible positions, so you will definitely have to use sub-trim to align things. Also, I couldn't get the QUK wheel to fit on an Align 610. They fit on the Futaba servos just fine. I suspect the Align spline is a bit oversize, just like their mainshafts are undersize.

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Old 01-20-2010, 04:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinrazrback View Post
On mine with the align 610 servos the ball links rub the case pretty bad, I had to put a small washer inside the servo wheel to space the wheel out about 1mm from the servo so the ball link would clear the case without rubbing it. I will go check to see if the linkages are square and see if that will fix the issue. If not, I may try ordering a set of Quick UK servo wheels to see if that helps. The ball links clear with the washer in the servo horn itself, but not the fix I really want to live with since I give up about 1mm of spline doing it this way.
Flyinrazerback, it does look like your servos are further from the frame. it also looks like the bell cranks sit closer to the frame so the rods are tilting in from the servo horn did you try using a smaller spacer?
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:14 PM   #18
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Also, I couldn't get the QUK wheel to fit on an Align 610. They fit on the Futaba servos just fine. I suspect the Align spline is a bit oversize, just like their mainshafts are undersize.
--Kevin
There's no standard for servo output splines, right? Hitech, Futaba, JR, etc. all seem to have different tooth counts and shaft sizes for each servo class. Is Align advertised to be the same as Futaba?
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:37 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by flyinrazrback View Post
On mine with the align 610 servos the ball links rub the case pretty bad, I had to put a small washer inside the servo wheel to space the wheel out about 1mm from the servo so the ball link would clear the case without rubbing it. I will go check to see if the linkages are square and see if that will fix the issue. If not, I may try ordering a set of Quick UK servo wheels to see if that helps. The ball links clear with the washer in the servo horn itself, but not the fix I really want to live with since I give up about 1mm of spline doing it this way.
Hey Flyinrazback! can you take a pic of the left and right side, servo to the bell cranks?
basically everyones fix is to put 2 carbon fiber servo plates behind the servo. this way it is parallel with the bellcrank... i think?
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:39 PM   #20
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I did try spacing them out, and it still binded either way. I found the fix and it took all of 1 minute to make it happen. The align ball links have a spacer built into them at the bottom, this extra 1.5mm added on to the bottom of the ball causes it to rub the align servos when using the align servo wheels. I took my dremel and recessed the plastic servo wheel where the ball link sits so that built in spacer on the ball link goes down into the plastic about 1mm when you tighten it down, and now I have about 1mm of clearance between the servo and the ball link. Kind of feel like an idiot for not thinking of this in the first place.
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