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450 Class Electric Helicopters 450 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 02-06-2010, 08:07 AM   #1
Michaelinpr
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Default Binding on main shaft lock ring and swash.

I was doing some fine tuning to my EXI mixed upgrade heli. I never really had all the cyclic and pitches dialed in. I now have it equal all the way around and at high mid and low. 7degrees cyclic and +/-10 pitch. Now at low stick with full aileron and full elevator all at the same time the swash just hits the set screws on the lock ring. I am not sure I would ever be using all these extremes in flight but you never know. I am annoyed too because I cant increase my pitch or cyclic anymore with out causing more problems.

Help please!

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Old 02-06-2010, 12:01 PM   #2
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If the set screws are sticking out very far, just try some shorter set screws.
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:58 PM   #3
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Back in the day when the V2 was most common we had to grind the set screw flush with the collar to get the increased pitch range.
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Old 02-07-2010, 06:59 AM   #4
Michaelinpr
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I tried grinding the set screw down a little on a spare collar. After I could not tighten it up. It doesnt have enough grab anymore. And I grinded it down the absolute minimum I need to pass the swash. I am going to try grinding the bottom of the collar to lower it a tiny bit. Not to much of corse. I still need a little of that part to sit on the inner race of the bearing.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:16 AM   #5
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I didnt find any smaller set screws. I grinded down the bottom of the collar a little. Gave me a bit more clearance but not enough. I then grinded down the set screws after I installed them. I didnt like doing it. I was afraid to get filings in the bearings plus now I will have to drill the set screw to change a shaft or a gear. It seems to be clearing the swash now. Lets see how much pitch I can get now.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:33 AM   #6
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Install "that" collar on the underside of the upper Main Bearing Block.

Also you can also add another collar on the top of the lower Bearing Block which balances the load between ALL the bearings a little better.

Anyways yes removing the collar from the top and installing on the under side of the Bearing Bock will most certainly work for this issue. A number have done this for varying reasons not only this without issue.

Only makes the Head removal in general is little more challenging but it will work well for this issue, I guarantee ...

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Old 02-07-2010, 01:43 PM   #7
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Woody that would require you to turn the bearing blocks upside down as well, as their isnt much holding the bearing into the block. And on the V2 frame the blocks are keyed into the frames so you have to grind off the tab. Frankly it is much easier to use the Pro mainshaft on the V2.
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:42 PM   #8
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It's an EXI 450 ?? Apparently the EXI use a plastic bearing block... On the plastic blocks of my SA the bearing(s) are supported on both side of the bearing. But yeah if not supported or with the aluminum blocks as you say I could see your point ... In that case I would certainly use a second collar above the lower bearing bock and green Loctite for the upper bearing and of course again with the collar under the upper bearing block. That would hold stop the shaft from going anywhere, IMO or JWIWD ...
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:33 PM   #9
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Is the swash hitting the head block on the other end of things? You may be able to get more out of the bottom(collar end) if you center the whole thing higher up. +-7 and +-10 isn't that much and shouldn't be hitting anything yet.
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Old 02-07-2010, 07:45 PM   #10
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I did have a little space at the top end but my links on the swash are as long as I can make them. The grinding I did worked. I went to the club today and was able to use +/- 12 with the mod I did. Which ate up the space at the top end. Wow what a difference in stopping power. Thanks for the help guys. When I am bored and want to tinker I will set it up with the collar on the bottom block and under the upper one.
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