250se hardware junk!

[crzyhare2344]

I absolutely love my SE but every time i go to replace something the bolts strip out... i don't use alot of loctite either.. i've never had so many issues stripping bolts.. i was wondering it anyone else was having this problem.. and if there was a good replacement hardware kit by another company.. i'm really dissapointed in align.. everytime i have to bust out the dremel and make a slit so i can get stuff apart.. making it impossible to fix at the field i have a hard time keepin my tail belt tension due to the crappy hardware.. i even switched to the allum. boom lock.. i'm really getting frustrated any input would be appreciated! thanks!

[watdazit]

It sounds like you are putting too much strain on them, These are little helis and do not require a lot of gorillaring. Like the lady said, be gentle with me.

[ndoren]

Originally Posted by AddictiveRC

There is a simple way to stop that problem.
Buy the RcScrewz Kit for the 250.
here ya Go: http://www.rchobbyhelicopter.com/sto...eli_Screw_Kits
Cheers, JohnW

John, in all fairness, if you've been following the RCScrewz threads here over the past few years, you should point out that many of us had major concerns and problems with the RCScrewz and I personally don't recommend them. So, I see your point of view as a retailer... you want to sell the kits, but as for me, a hobbyist with no intention other than to make my heli the best it can be, I wouldn't use them on the 250. So, they may not actually be the "simple way to stop that problem," especially for someone prone to stripping the Align screws, as the heads on the RCScrewz snap off more readily than the Align screw heads strip.

[HeloJoe]

I think the biggest problem is with the 1.3mm hex wrench which Align ships with the kit. Quite frankly, it's junk.

Even if you're extra-gentle with the fasteners and use minimal loctite, you can still have issues.

In Finless' video where he claims to not have any problems with the kit, I note that the hex wrench he is using is NOT the same as the one in the kit. Not sure where he got his, but it is not the same wrench I got in my kit (look at the video carefully.)

In any case, what I have done (and a lot of folks on here have done) is to get high-quality drivers such as the MIPS Thorpe drivers. They are not cheap...but in the long run, well worth the expense.

What I did was to buy myself a set of the MIPS drivers and a bag of fresh Align screws. Then, if I have any issues, I remove the old screw (either with pliers or using the slot with Dremel method) and then replace that screw with a new screw and use ONLY the MIPS drivers (and minimal loctite.)

The problem I have read regarding these aftermarket "Screwz" is that they break off IN the heli. If that happens, you're basically screwed (no pun intended.)

Just my 2 cents...

[tbirg]

Just started building my 250SE last night and good portion of the screws were pre-striped.

I think it is a mixture of junk screws and junk driver. I will have to order a MIPs drive and some replacement screws.

[MatsSweden]

Originally Posted by HeloJoe

I think the biggest problem is with the 1.3mm hex wrench which Align ships with the kit. Quite frankly, it's junk.

Indeed it is.
MIPS are very good tools, and IMHO so is Hudy. (I'd say Wiha is almost as good, almost)
I bought this one: http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...1&kategoria=65
Works great.
When I build my helis I use a toothpick to put just a liiiiittle bit of blue locktite in the hole, not on the screw. Has worked out purty good so far

/Mats

Edit: If it's really locked down hard, use a soldering iron to heat up the screw a little, and then unscrew the tricky barstard.

[HeloJoe]

Going to have to check out the Hudy tools. They look really, really nice.

Originally Posted by MatsSweden

Indeed it is.
MIPS are very good tools, and IMHO so is Hudy. (I'd say Wiha is almost as good, almost)
I bought this one: http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...1&kategoria=65
Works great.
When I build my helis I use a toothpick to put just a liiiiittle bit of blue locktite in the hole, not on the screw. Has worked out purty good so far

/Mats

Edit: If it's really locked down hard, use a soldering iron to heat up the screw a little, and then unscrew the tricky barstard.

[Cullen Colapietro]

I've replaced alot of my screws with the HK 250 replacement screws. Just 2 dollars a bag if you were already making an order over at HK. You do need a star bit #4 driver for these however, so I spend another $15 on that, but no problems so far!

[CaseyDDR]

it was suggested to me to buy a better driver before even starting my build on my 250. I did and I've only stripped one bolt so far, and I've tore it down twice now. I really think the issue is in the supplied driver, not the screws themselves.

[Silverexpress01]

My 250 & 250SE came with a 0.9 mm hex head driver. I found out though that the screws are actually 1.27 mm or .050" hex. Why Align supplies a 0.9 mm driver I don't know. This is well documented on the Internet if you search for it.

.050" hex drivers are commonly used in RC cars, so there are plenty of tools in that arena.

Use that 0.9mm hex driver, and you will surely strip the screws.

[jk3256]

+1 on the .050 driver. The 1.3 supplied in the se kit worked well for first assembly but rounded on me on my rebuild after an unscheduled landing. Got a new pack of screws (align) and a .050 and noticed a very connected screw/driver feel. I too had read post about the MIP drivers and deceided against them simply because my LHS had it in stock. Time will tell but $6 for the .050 vs $15-20 (including shipping) for the MIP sealed the deal. In regards to the arguments about 1.3 is not the same size as .050, true, but I don't think 1/1000 of a Inch difference is going to make that big of a deal. At least it is not for me.

[Besen]

The align kit comes with a 0.9mm driver because there are a few grub screws that are 0.9mm. It seems to me they should include a 1.3mm also.

[rfaster]

So to the tune of "Buying quality tools upfront" prior to building the 250 - what tools (sizes) do you need? Also where do you buy Mips?

[Besen]

Here's one source for MIPS tools. I bought from them and was happy with the service. I think someone here posted another site that was a bit cheaper so you might want to do a search.

http://rjrcooltools.com/mip.cfm

MIP stands for Moore's Ideal Products.

[HeloJoe]

Just to clarify this, the 0.50" Thorp IS the 1.3mm replacement.

So, here is what I got and they fit all the Allen's in my kit:

.9mm Thorp
0.50" (~1.3mm) Thorp
1.5mm Thorp (this one is "iffy"...you probably can get by with most any 1.5mm, but I figured I'd go for the best.)

Just FYI, there ARE other good tools out there. Hudy, for example, makes good tools by all accounts. I got the Thorps by MIPS because they are easy to find all over the 'net.

Originally Posted by AddictiveRC

You need the 1.3mm thorp and .050 thorp drivers from MIP.
Cheers, JohnW

[Silverexpress01]

Originally Posted by AddictiveRC

You need the 1.3mm thorp and .050 thorp drivers from MIP.
Cheers, JohnW

I think 1.3mm and .050" (1.27mm) are pretty close that you only need one of each. For my Trex I have 3 hex drivers...

0.90 mm hex driver (Align)
1.27mm (or 0.050") hex driver
1.5 mm hex driver

Along with...
Align Screw Driver or
JIS #00 Screw Driver - (Japanese Industrial Standard - Moody Tools #2064 - similar to "Phillips") http://www.moodytools.com/MTI_Browse_4.html

Align Small Ball Link Tool (Very similar to tweezers)
Note: There is another metric allen wrench size that currently escapes my memory - it's the one for the main shaft collar. This is the collar that goes between the upper mainshaft bearing and the swashplate.

[Silverexpress01]

Originally Posted by HeloJoe

Just to clarify this, the 0.50" Thorp IS the 1.3mm replacement.

So, here is what I got and they fit all the Allen's in my kit:

.9mm Thorp
0.50" (~1.3mm) Thorp
1.5mm Thorp (this one is "iffy"...you probably can get by with most any 1.5mm, but I figured I'd go for the best.)

Just FYI, there ARE other good tools out there. Hudy, for example, makes good tools by all accounts. I got the Thorps by MIPS because they are easy to find all over the 'net.

Your too damn quick! Lol.

[Bill Geyer]

The Align 1.3mm driver in my plain 250 w/motor esc kit mikes .050 inch. I built the kit as Bob instructed, with Locktite, have repaired it a couple of times, and haven't stripped a single screw. No tail wag (with properly set gain). And original tail drive belt. Over 100 flights. The little 250 is just as easy to fly as a 450, maybe easier.

[watdazit]

And of course metric or imperial???? I fear some problems relate to using metric in imperial heads. Why can't you yanks get into metric.You kicked the British out in aboiut 1814 but held onto the imperial measurements. Metric is so much easier to use and for maths and science teachers it save heaps of work.

PS I agree with Mike. It's the best little heli I have ever had and I would not hesitate to recommend it to a newbie flier to learn on. It was the first heli I kicked the training wheels off it is that easy to fly (hover and foreward flight for me.)

[Bill Geyer]

Miked it in inches because some were buying .050" drivers, which seemed to work better for them.