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Old 04-09-2010, 06:55 PM   #61
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I too am cusious to hear from Mercuriell as to why he thinks this may have happened. This doesn't sound like normal performance from Turnigy's.

David
I guess it comes down to you get what you pay for - naturally I balance/discharge on timer <80% and all the usual things - my DN Lipos and Desire packs are still going strong after 50 cycles - I emailed Desire and asked if they could match Turnigy prices and they basically said no because of the quality of materials used. Way that I look at it Turnigy's are 30% of the price of top line packs so might as well get used to the idea of getting 30% usage out of them - they're still very fliable but the TDR doesn't pop along on them so enthusiastically as when they were new
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Old 04-11-2010, 06:54 PM   #62
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Default Another one takes to the air.

I flew my first two flights on my new 6HV today.
It is awesome!!!!!!!
I flew my Outrage 550 all last year which is a great heli, but this 6HV is just awesome.

Greg
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:15 PM   #63
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Really nice looking heli Greg!

Can I ask why you decided to go with the 600e tail servo mount instead of the frame mount?
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:21 PM   #64
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Yes you can ask.
The Turnigy batteries are a little on the heavy side. I mounted the servo on the boom to get the balance point correct. Also it gives me more room to mount the receiver inside the frame on the rear and more room to tuck the wires away. There still would have been room with the servo mounted on the frame though, but it would have been tight.

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Old 04-11-2010, 07:41 PM   #65
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Yes you can ask.
The Turnigy batteries are a little on the heavy side. I mounted the servo on the boom to get the balance point correct. Also it gives me more room to mount the receiver inside the frame on the rear and more room to tuck the wires away. There still would have been room with the servo mounted on the frame though, but it would have been tight.

Greg
I fgured that was the reason. Just waiting for someone to confirm it. Seems all the test pilots told us it would balance with 2600-3300mah batts???

My 6HV isn't together but I hung all the components on it in about at their mounted locations to check balance and it did not look to me like the heli was gonna balance with the Turnigy 3000s.

Have ya noticed that most of the 3D flyers are all flying 2600s in their latest vids.?

Wish I had known what batts. ACTUALLY allow balance before I spent $350 on batts. that are to heavy!
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:54 PM   #66
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I fgured that was the reason. Just waiting for someone to confirm it. Seems all the test pilots told us it would balance with 2600-3300mah batts???

My 6HV isn't together but I hung all the components on it in about at their mounted locations to check balance and it did not look to me like the heli was gonna balance with the Turnigy 3000s.

Have ya noticed that most of the 3D flyers are all flying 2600s in their latest vids.?

Wish I had known what batts. ACTUALLY allow balance before I spent $350 on batts. that are to heavy!
where did you mount your esc? if you mount it closer to the back, it will help you with balance.
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:56 PM   #67
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RMG2
I hear ya, I would have bought different batteries if I had it to do over again. Also did you notice looking at the pictures that I notched the front of the frame so that I could get the batteries to slide back a little more. The canopy would hardly fit before I did this. The front corners of the battery were hitting the canopy causing it to bulge out.

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Old 04-11-2010, 08:06 PM   #68
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RMG2
I hear ya, I would have bought different batteries if I had it to do over again. Also did you notice looking at the pictures that I notched the front of the frame so that I could get the batteries to slide back a little more. The canopy would hardly fit before I did this. The front corners of the battery were hitting the canopy causing it to bulge out.

Greg
I didn't notice that in your pics. but Mercuriell had suggested that same idea to me. I guess I'll get the Dremel and sanding block out and cut out a little of the frame. Either that or put my new, still in the boxes batts. on the classifieds???

David I have the ESC as far back as the frame allow with the motor leads swinging around and entering the frame from the rear. Can't get it any further rearward. Also have the BEC mid on opposite side with RX rear on that same side.
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:44 PM   #69
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She's here!

Thank you Nankin

Pictures to follow
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:01 PM   #70
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Hello all you 6HV builders, I have a quickie.

My question is, should I break down the kits bearings and re-pack them with grease? Or can I just fly the bearings the way that they are?

Also, I pulled the mixing arms of my kit and felt that one of the bearings was a bit stiff/notchy. Any advice?

Thanks in advance Cullen
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:43 PM   #71
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Hi Cullen,

it's enough when you grease the thrustbearings in the main- and tailbladeholders !

Grtz,
Dirk
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Old 04-15-2010, 05:06 PM   #72
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Thanks Dirk.

By the way, does Grtz by any chance mean thanks in Flemish?

Cullen

PS I've been to Bruge and Liège while studying French in Europe.
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Old 04-15-2010, 05:09 PM   #73
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Grtz is like short for greatings or in Flemish we say "groeten"
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Old 04-16-2010, 02:46 AM   #74
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Hello all you 6HV builders, I have a quickie.

My question is, should I break down the kits bearings and re-pack them with grease? Or can I just fly the bearings the way that they are?

Also, I pulled the mixing arms of my kit and felt that one of the bearings was a bit stiff/notchy. Any advice?

Thanks in advance Cullen
No need to re-lube the main grip bearings - just clean up and Loctite in the spindle bol;ts. wrt the mixer arm it may be a bit tight so worth just backing off the bolt a bit and see if that frees it up
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Old 04-16-2010, 03:41 AM   #75
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Hi Cullen,

it's just like "Flexis" explained ! Nice to hear you have been to Brugge, i live only 4 km away from this nice historic city !!

John tells not to lube the bearings in the main grip, but it never hurts to look if the thrustbearings are lubed, mine weren't ! But maybe that was because my kit was a testkit

Grtz,
Dirk
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Old 04-16-2010, 04:16 AM   #76
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when i checked/degreased/locktited the spindle shaft i also took a look at the thrust bearings and they were well greased in my case.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:42 AM   #77
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Thanks for the help so far guys. As I was assembling my heli last night (the build vids came in hand by the way, especially w/ the main shaft collar retainer), I was a bit surprised at the amount of resistance in the autorotation gear. I have only worked with Align helis and have never used a belt drive aut gear and though it should spin freer. Are yours moving a bit stiffly? Will this loosen after the first few flights? Also, this isn't a belt tension issue, I set that by pulling on the boom only until the tail gear would no longer slip on the belt as I turned the tail rotor and held the main shaft in place.

Any thoughts?
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:54 AM   #78
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"Are yours moving a bit stiffly? Will this loosen after the first few flights? Also, this isn't a belt tension issue, I set that by pulling on the boom only until the tail gear would no longer slip on the belt as I turned the tail rotor and held the main shaft in place."

The belt will be a bit stiff when brand new. It will free up remarkably within a few flights.
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:05 AM   #79
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The belt will be a bit stiff when brand new. It will free up remarkably within a few flights.
Is this due to the belt actually becoming more flexible or because the bearings move more freely. As far as I can tell by feel, the "resistance" that I feel is coming from the bearings trying to roll in the heavy grease they are packed in AND from any added tension on the belt.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:49 PM   #80
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Is this due to the belt actually becoming more flexible or because the bearings move more freely. As far as I can tell by feel, the "resistance" that I feel is coming from the bearings trying to roll in the heavy grease they are packed in AND from any added tension on the belt.
When I pulled the gear assembly apart I sprayed out that grease with electric motor cleaner and dryed with an air compressor. Then I relubed the bearing with a few drops of 30wt. motor oil like I always use on other helis.
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