ULTIMATE MOD OF THE SHOGUN FRAME (and one Walkera part) - Page 5

borneobear · 12-15-2006, 10:04 PM

Better pics and lower inverts. :wink:

borneobear · 12-15-2006, 10:05 PM

Grass cutting with heli gets you this:

borneobear · 12-15-2006, 10:06 PM

Oh well.

borneobear · 12-16-2006, 09:41 PM

Well, I didn't think there was much more mods to do. But I guess this will never end. :?

Anyway, I'm using this to mount my motor:

Which leaves me the original shogun motor mount to mod. I basically just cut it off at the yellow line and made two holes at the red dots:

borneobear · 12-16-2006, 09:44 PM

I then flipped the two servo mountings over (the original front alum mount is now used to mount the motor mount - does that make sense?)

Anyway, I now have to front holes for my next mod (arrow):

borneobear · 12-16-2006, 09:49 PM

With these front mounting holes, I intalled a square alum plate (red arrow) that I bent at about 45 degrees. Mounting was via two nuts and bolts:

I also added a support CF plate (?) - black arrow.

borneobear · 12-16-2006, 09:51 PM

The whole purpose of this was to make an elevated battery mount:

Which functions likes so:

borneobear · 12-16-2006, 09:54 PM

By elevating the battery higher, my horizontal center of gravity shifts higher. As I understand it, the closer the C of G is to the tail boom line, the easier it is to roll the heli.
Well, I don't know is this is the way to check horizontal C of G, but here's how I do it:

Hang the heli as close as possible to the tail boom line - by the main gear : :mrgreen:

And I find my head side is now slightly heavier:

borneobear · 12-16-2006, 09:57 PM

I noted three improvements by doing this mod:

1) Its now very easy to install and take out the Lipo batt due to is being closer to my canopy opening:

2) My canopy now does not carry any of the lipo weight - therefore I can grind down the canopy further to lose weight.

and 3) I DOES ROLL BETTER!!!!

I love this hobby. :wink:

borneobear · 12-17-2006, 02:00 AM

A vid of the CCPM mechanism: layout & movement:

borneobear · 12-22-2006, 10:22 AM

It feels real weird not having anything else to do -mechanically - to this bird. Its flying perfectly.

I'm bored.

Anyway, Chopchop at RCGroups posted this wiring diagram to improve power distribution:

Original post:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=23

borneobear · 12-22-2006, 10:27 AM

I modified it very very slightly to improve it further. The wiring basically involves A, B and C. "A" is to improve Earth by having an additional wire to the negative return. B is to improve positive (volt/power) to the two servos which work hardest at keeping the heli up in the air and another to the gyro (also power hungry). And C is where all the positive points from the servo to the BEC meet up.
Very simple really.

Will post pictures of the set up.
Happy flying.

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 07:52 AM

ENUFF SAID.

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 08:00 AM

Well, I haven't posted much mods lately. Mainly cuz there hasn't been any.

Which I think is a good sign that my model has finally reached its equillibrium.

I did however run into a weak spot yesterday:

The arrow above points to my servo arm connected to the push-pull rod. I'm using an aircraft connector (easy to adjust rod lenght). Where this connector is bolted to the plastic servo arm, I found tons of BINDING.

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 08:04 AM

Here's the offending item:

The plastic hole where the connector is bolted to binds it as its bolt is tightened. If it is tightened too much, it will bind more, while if I tighten too little, it starts to wobble.

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 08:14 AM

Here's the solution:

I use these copper bushings that were lying around my tool box.

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 08:16 AM

I can't recall where they came from, but I think it was from my original #36 bird's see-saw arm support:

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 08:20 AM

All I had to do was file the copper bushings to exactly the height of the servo arm, drilled a hole JUST big enough for it to be pushed in. Here's the end product:

borneobear · 01-09-2007, 08:26 AM

By lining the servo arm with copper bushing, I feel very little binding of the servo rod connector.
Obviously to get rid of all the binding - bearings should be used. But I don't have that size at the moment. Another way would be to use servo ball links.
But for now, I'm happy with my copper bushings.

Happy flying! :wink:

borneobear · 01-14-2007, 07:49 AM

Flying in the highlands of Borneo...

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12-15-2006, 10:04 PM	#81
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Better pics and lower inverts. :wink:

12-15-2006, 10:05 PM	#82
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Grass cutting with heli gets you this:

12-15-2006, 10:06 PM	#83
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Oh well.

12-16-2006, 09:41 PM	#84
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Well, I didn't think there was much more mods to do. But I guess this will never end. :? Anyway, I'm using this to mount my motor: Which leaves me the original shogun motor mount to mod. I basically just cut it off at the yellow line and made two holes at the red dots:

12-16-2006, 09:44 PM	#85
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	I then flipped the two servo mountings over (the original front alum mount is now used to mount the motor mount - does that make sense?) Anyway, I now have to front holes for my next mod (arrow):

12-16-2006, 09:49 PM	#86
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	With these front mounting holes, I intalled a square alum plate (red arrow) that I bent at about 45 degrees. Mounting was via two nuts and bolts: I also added a support CF plate (?) - black arrow.

12-16-2006, 09:51 PM	#87
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	The whole purpose of this was to make an elevated battery mount: Which functions likes so:

12-16-2006, 09:54 PM	#88
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	By elevating the battery higher, my horizontal center of gravity shifts higher. As I understand it, the closer the C of G is to the tail boom line, the easier it is to roll the heli. Well, I don't know is this is the way to check horizontal C of G, but here's how I do it: Hang the heli as close as possible to the tail boom line - by the main gear : :mrgreen: And I find my head side is now slightly heavier:

12-16-2006, 09:57 PM	#89
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	I noted three improvements by doing this mod: 1) Its now very easy to install and take out the Lipo batt due to is being closer to my canopy opening: 2) My canopy now does not carry any of the lipo weight - therefore I can grind down the canopy further to lose weight. and 3) I DOES ROLL BETTER!!!! I love this hobby. :wink:

12-22-2006, 10:22 AM	#91
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	It feels real weird not having anything else to do -mechanically - to this bird. Its flying perfectly. I'm bored. Anyway, Chopchop at RCGroups posted this wiring diagram to improve power distribution: Original post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=23

12-22-2006, 10:27 AM	#92
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	I modified it very very slightly to improve it further. The wiring basically involves A, B and C. "A" is to improve Earth by having an additional wire to the negative return. B is to improve positive (volt/power) to the two servos which work hardest at keeping the heli up in the air and another to the gyro (also power hungry). And C is where all the positive points from the servo to the BEC meet up. Very simple really. Will post pictures of the set up. Happy flying.

01-09-2007, 07:52 AM	#93
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	ENUFF SAID.

01-09-2007, 08:00 AM	#94
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Well, I haven't posted much mods lately. Mainly cuz there hasn't been any. Which I think is a good sign that my model has finally reached its equillibrium. I did however run into a weak spot yesterday: The arrow above points to my servo arm connected to the push-pull rod. I'm using an aircraft connector (easy to adjust rod lenght). Where this connector is bolted to the plastic servo arm, I found tons of BINDING.

01-09-2007, 08:04 AM	#95
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Here's the offending item: The plastic hole where the connector is bolted to binds it as its bolt is tightened. If it is tightened too much, it will bind more, while if I tighten too little, it starts to wobble.

01-09-2007, 08:14 AM	#96
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	Here's the solution: I use these copper bushings that were lying around my tool box.

01-09-2007, 08:16 AM	#97
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	I can't recall where they came from, but I think it was from my original #36 bird's see-saw arm support:

01-09-2007, 08:20 AM	#98
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	All I had to do was file the copper bushings to exactly the height of the servo arm, drilled a hole JUST big enough for it to be pushed in. Here's the end product:

01-09-2007, 08:26 AM	#99
borneobear Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA	By lining the servo arm with copper bushing, I feel very little binding of the servo rod connector. Obviously to get rid of all the binding - bearings should be used. But I don't have that size at the moment. Another way would be to use servo ball links. But for now, I'm happy with my copper bushings. Happy flying! :wink: