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4G6 / V120 Series Walkera 4G6 / V120 Series Helicopter Support


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Old 04-08-2010, 03:10 PM   #1
nutsak7
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Default Turbo Ace

Is Wow Hobbies the only place that carries this motor?
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:25 PM   #2
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Depends on wich Turbo Ace you are speaking of.
The Turbo Ace 31714 - inrunner - I have only seen this one at wow
The Turbo Ace 81220 (HP08-2) - outrunner - Terrence at chinesejade has these. So maybe others have these as well?

I haven't seen any other US dealers that carry these, but I could be wrong.
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:31 PM   #3
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I was talking about the inrunner.
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:38 PM   #4
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I've only seen that one at wow. But I haven't researched that one much. I just bought and installed the outrunner. Very nice!
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:50 PM   #5
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I believe that "WOW" is the only supplier offering the "Turbo Ace 31714 inrunner". I believe that WOW also handles the HP08 and ESC sold separately. CJ offers this motor in combo with the ESC and "no soldering required". When my own Turbo Ace 31714 fried, I looked all over the internet but it seems that only WOW offers this one. Seems like there's much more interest and satisfaction with the "outrunner" since the 31714 "still" runs hot.
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Old 04-08-2010, 09:36 PM   #6
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Overskyrc is the primary distributers of the YXmotor's HPO...series.
Pretty sure wow's inrunner is an AEO motor.
Turbo Ace is their rebrand.

I would definately get the HPO8 over the inrunner.

Amp
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:32 PM   #7
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here is one used.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1223775
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:54 AM   #8
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Used?

Ya gotta be kiddin! If someone offered you a used motor to replace the clapped out motor in your vacuum cleaner, what would it take to convince you that he's not gonna send you a similarly clapped out motor from his own defective unit? Unbelievable!
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:14 AM   #9
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In all honesty. Nutsak, you're a relative newb, right? Appologies if I'm wrong. Can you hover the 4G6 confidently for a full battery pack (tail in), time and again, and land it softly?

If you can't, then I cannot possibly imagine why you would want to upgrade to an HP08. It won't make you a better pilot, and I suspect will just get you into more trouble. If your original motor is toast, just replace it with an OEM motor or perhaps the 11,000kv brushless motor for the 4G3 (Novus CP). It's more motor than you or I will ever need until we're ready for 3D flight (if that day ever comes).

But by then, you will have already tossed the 4G6 into the trashbin and moved on to more capable (and better quality) helicopters.
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all-thumbs View Post
In all honesty. Nutsak, you're a relative newb, right? Appologies if I'm wrong. Can you hover the 4G6 confidently for a full battery pack (tail in), time and again, and land it softly?

If you can't, then I cannot possibly imagine why you would want to upgrade to an HP08. It won't make you a better pilot, and I suspect will just get you into more trouble. If your original motor is toast, just replace it with an OEM motor or perhaps the 11,000kv brushless motor for the 4G3 (Novus CP). It's more motor than you or I will ever need until we're ready for 3D flight (if that day ever comes).

But by then, you will have already tossed the 4G6 into the trashbin and moved on to more capable (and better quality) helicopters.
Lol! I'm already starting to move into 3D (far too soon-yea, I skipped backwards, funnels, etc..). And I need the HP08 for that, my rough flying style as opposed to Manuel C's smooth 3D style keeps bogging the stock motor down.

I've already tried the 11000KV, while it doesn't overheat as much as the 10000KV it's not as powerful both with the 12T and 14T pinion. The 10000KV is still a better motor especially with evaporative cooling.
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all-thumbs View Post
In all honesty. Nutsak, you're a relative newb, right? Appologies if I'm wrong. Can you hover the 4G6 confidently for a full battery pack (tail in), time and again, and land it softly?

If you can't, then I cannot possibly imagine why you would want to upgrade to an HP08. It won't make you a better pilot, and I suspect will just get you into more trouble. If your original motor is toast, just replace it with an OEM motor or perhaps the 11,000kv brushless motor for the 4G3 (Novus CP). It's more motor than you or I will ever need until we're ready for 3D flight (if that day ever comes).

But by then, you will have already tossed the 4G6 into the trashbin and moved on to more capable (and better quality) helicopters.
Hi there,

I definitely disagree here. I am a complete noob and I very much appreciate the HP08S over the stock motor. Of course, the increased headspeed causes more damage when crashing. However, in my noob opinion the following are very compelling reasons to go for the HP08S or likewise even if you are a noob:
  • HP08S will not get hot, where my stock motor will even call it a day after 1 lipo's worth flying on a warm day.
  • HP08S provides higher headspeeds, making the heli quicker to react to your inputs
  • HP08S will not bog until given very large pitch (>10 degrees), and yes, even flying tail-in only, it is fun to let your heli go up and down.
Then again, I completely agree that there are probably much more capable and better quality heli's out there. But not at the size of a 4G6 and for the price of a 4G6 + HP08S.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:59 AM   #12
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Yes I am a newb! But here is my dilemma... I had the heli for 1 day esc smoked got a new one and realized motor is smoked too. Instead of spending 20 on a factory motor which probably wont last, might as well spend 15 more and get the inrunner right? And I had issues with the tail servo but Helipal has just sent me a new one free of charge its the least they could have done so im happy with that.
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:54 AM   #13
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Nutsak,

If you're going to order the 31714 Turbo Ace "inrunner", make sure you order the "correct" ESC to go with it. WOW indicates that while the 4G6 "stock" ESC will "work" with the 31714, it's really not recommended if you "interpret" the fine print correctly..............basically, you'll burn it up if you use it with the stock ESC. If you log into WOW's website and bring up info on the "31714", you'll be directed toward the "right" ESC for the job. Otherwise, just go with the HP08 outrunner to avoid further cooling and "motor life" issues.

Mikey
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Old 04-09-2010, 02:30 PM   #14
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This is what i had ordered from Clubheli. Im pretty sure its the one there talking about?
http://www.clubheli.com/Walkera-4G34...p_113.html0A-L
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsak7 View Post
This is what i had ordered from Clubheli. Im pretty sure its the one there talking about?
http://www.clubheli.com/Walkera-4G34...p_113.html0A-L
For the Turbo Ace 31714 Wow recommends the CB-100 ESC
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:54 PM   #16
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This is my first post here, and I would like to start by mentioning what a valuable resource this forum has been over the past few months.

I am a total noob, and have gotten to the point where I can hover a 4G6, tail in, for as long as the battery lasts, or around five minutes for me. Over and over, I can hover until the battery dies. I have burned up four stock motors getting to this point. A beginner needs lots of practice to improve, and I think the 08 motor might be a useful tool for beginners, allowing more practice time without waiting for the motor to cool.

I burned up my first motor running twelve batteries through it, about an hour of continuous flight. It's all about stick time for beginners, and I think the 08 motor gives us more of what we need to improve. No idle up mode, just lots of hovering without worrying about frying something.

Learning RC helis is kind of like learning to ride a bicycle, or learning to juggle, or learning algebra. You struggle and struggle, and then one day something just clicks and you wonder how you ever were not able to do it. The 08 motor is a valuable tool for me , because it gave me more stick time and less cool down time.
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:22 PM   #17
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Four burned out motors! That sounds like a few too many to just attribute to bad luck.

Friction and binding is likely a motor killer in this small heli. The harder it has to work, the hotter the motor gets. You need to pay special attention to setting up this bird so that everything freewheels as easily (smoothly) as possible.

First make sure that there is a bit of lash between the pinion gear and the main gear. Better to err on the side of too loose rather than too tight. Next, you have make sure that the inboard tail rotor gear is not crammed up to tight against the main gear. That's where it gets tricky, because if you make it too loose you will strip that little gear every time you set the heli down hard (or if you catch the main blades a bit).

Thats what makes this heli such a pain in the @$$. Some people probably think: smaller and cheaper = less fiddling. Not so. This 4G6 requires careful tuning to perform reliably.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:42 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all-thumbs View Post
Four burned out motors! That sounds like a few too many to just attribute to bad luck.

Friction and binding is likely a motor killer in this small heli. The harder it has to work, the hotter the motor gets. You need to pay special attention to setting up this bird so that everything freewheels as easily (smoothly) as possible.

First make sure that there is a bit of lash between the pinion gear and the main gear. Better to err on the side of too loose rather than too tight. Next, you have make sure that the inboard tail rotor gear is not crammed up to tight against the main gear. That's where it gets tricky, because if you make it too loose you will strip that little gear every time you set the heli down hard (or if you catch the main blades a bit).

Thats what makes this heli such a pain in the @$$. Some people probably think: smaller and cheaper = less fiddling. Not so. This 4G6 requires careful tuning to perform reliably.
All Thumbs,

How do you go about as you say ".......Next, you have make sure that the inboard tail rotor gear is not crammed up to tight against the main gear. ............"??

Thanks
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Old 04-10-2010, 02:21 AM   #19
all-thumbs
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Where to begin?

A while ago, I was thinking that it would be a good idea to produce a Youtube video of how best to do this. Not that my method would necessarily be the best way.

After you have locked down the motor so that there is a bit of play (lash) between the pinion and main gear: make sure that the collar on the main shaft is set so that there is only the very slightest play (almost no play) when you try to move the main shaft up and down.

I have only stripped two forward (inboard) transmission gears. When I installed my third gear, I first installed the aluminum "holder frame" after fitting the new gear to the tail shaft. Pretty straightforward, so far. Next, make sure that the screw which locks the tail boom in place is plenty loose. Then, push the tail boom assembly forward so that the the tiny shaft gear will be fully engaged with the main gear. Now, before you lock down the screw (which secures the tail shaft), spin the main shaft/rotor assembly several times or more by hand. This way, the little shaft gear settles in nicely against the main gear before you lock down the tail boom. This way, it shouldn't be too tight or too loose.

Last edited by all-thumbs; 04-10-2010 at 02:27 AM.. Reason: boom, not shaft
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Old 04-10-2010, 11:06 AM   #20
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All-thumbs,

Thanks for the description.

I do the same except for one thing. I tighten the boom screw and the plate screws because the boom is a bit loose in the frame.

I will check how tight the main shaft collar is though.
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