how to assemble this main rotor upgrade?

ReadyToCrash · 07-28-2010, 05:27 PM

hi,
I have to assemble the blade grips on the belt cp main shaft.
it's a aluminum upgrade - it is not the stock plastic stuff - and I can't find directions in the manual.
I wonder if someone knows what's is the right disposition of the the bearings and o-rings on the feathering axis (the transverse axis that keep both grips together).
thanks a lot.

Tomstoy2 · 07-28-2010, 10:36 PM

Not BEng familiar with the Belt's head any longer, bit they are all basically the same.

Roller bearing, (one piece), goes into each end of the grips. Thrust bearing, (3 pieces per side) gets grease, don't worry about which kind, then the cup side faces out to retain the grease. This installs on the inside of the grip. There is usually a spacer that goes between the thrust bearing and the grip, but not always. There is usually a washer of some sort that goes between the grip and the rubber dampner that goes into the head. Blue loctite on the bolts. Use two wrenches to tighten both bolts to the shaft at the same time, and do a good job of torqueing the bastards.
That's about it, really.
Hope this helps.

chansen1953 · 07-28-2010, 10:59 PM

+1 to tom,,
however you may need to add some shims (really thin washers against the blade grips, same qty each side), if it binds when you have tightened the bolts. This is the best spot to put then so you can quickly add/remove as desired.
btw.. same technigue is used for main rotor blades as well, I believe
good luck ..

CyprusDave · 07-28-2010, 11:16 PM

Good assembly guide here: http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/ESKY-CNC-...uild-Guide.asp

ReadyToCrash · 07-29-2010, 03:48 PM

hey guys,
thanks a lot indeed.
can I use Vaseline as grease?
thanks again.

Tomstoy2 · 07-29-2010, 07:35 PM

Sure, it's not like they move more than 10 degrees of rotation. I use white grease so I don't have to look at a black mess when it throws it out.

sutty · 07-29-2010, 07:51 PM

Don't see why not. As I discussed with Tom the other day, nothing on my helis ever even lasts long enough to suffer from wear and tear.

I think it make degrade the rubber dampeners in truth, but as I said I really never had a set long enough for any form of degredation to occur. Must be bad for rubber though, have you ever seen what it does to a condom?

Cheers

Sutty

Tomstoy2 · 07-29-2010, 09:57 PM

God, Sutty, you damn near made me choke! Not too sure but I think condoms are latex, which is probably why you have issues, Sut. Hope you don't have any 'little mistakes' running around buddy.

Anyway, don't over lube the bearings, just work a little into the balls is all.

chansen1953 · 07-29-2010, 11:04 PM

h guys.. I use a silicone oil.. which I had a lot of trouble finding something easy to obtain..
I tried the silicone spray, but it is very thin and soon is spun off.
last week I found some silicone diff oil (used by the 4x4 model guys in their PLASTIC diffs !1) this stuff is quite thick, clear and comes in a 50mll bottle for about $7 i think.
I put it into a pin oiler, and it's just great for injecting into small and hard to reach areas.. AND it is thick enough to stay there for quite a while.
I rate this as a great find !!! - look for "silicone diff oil CS1000" at rc suppliers

CyprusDave · 07-29-2010, 11:37 PM

+1 to Chris, silicone oil is good. You can also get pure silcone grease (with the thicker consistancy of "normal" grease). You can get it in scuba diving shops (as it doesn't react with high-pressure air), sometimes in auto-parts stores as a lube for battery terminals, or for rubber spark plug caps to stop them sticking to the plugs (as it's safe to use on rubber, doesn't conduct electricity and is waterproof). Usually comes in a small tube or little plastic tub, but a little goes a long way.

Just don't get clear silicone sealant by mistake

Personally, I'd stay away from the vaseline

redbird300 · 07-30-2010, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyprusDave

Personally, I'd stay away from the vaseline

Yeah, I also don't trust people that use vaseline...

sutty · 07-30-2010, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomstoy2

God, Sutty, you damn near made me choke!

Just having a little fun. Hope you're okay.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomstoy2

Not too sure but I think condoms are latex, which is probably why you have issues, Sut.

Not been having any issues personally, just saw it on the telly once, but why do they call them rubbers then?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomstoy2

Hope you don't have any 'little mistakes' running around buddy.

Surely you mean little bundles of joy.

Was just thinking about the merits of vaseline whilst I was in the garage. I was contemplating a problem I had in the winter wereby the garage door had become difficult to open because the grease had gone extremely viscous in the cold. We had a spell of very cold weather. It busted my door opener and I had to get a new gear set for it and it came with low temperature grease. I wonder if that might potentially be an issue in helis in the depths of winter, making it yet another consideration when thinking of what grease to choose?

Cheers

Sut

chansen1953 · 07-30-2010, 06:52 PM

hi sutty.. yes vaseline and most comercial greases are petroleum based, which is not good for plastic parts. the problem is a lot of the store staff at auto places and hardware stores do not know what you are talking about when you ask for "non-mineral" based oils. Also the product packaging often does not tell the complete truth.. ie synthetic oils are not always mineral (or petroleum) free...
for now I am finally happy to have found a source of genuine silicone grease
btw-- copterx supply a small bottle of silocone grease with their kits, which is nice !

anyway-- I agree with Sutty.... I will never own a Heli long enough to actually suffer parts corrosion caused by the luubricant !! or even wear and tear caused by non-use of libricants !!

ReadyToCrash · 07-30-2010, 07:03 PM

hey guys,
thanks a lot.
i was suspicious that the word ''vaseline'' was going to cause such a controversy

.
actually i just used vaseline because that's what I had at the moment.
during the assembling i found out that flybar that i bought as being "for belt cp v2" was actually thicker than the original one.
one can't see the difference with naked eyes but it was pretty hard to make the bar go thru everything it was supposed to.
i had to widen some holes with a drill.
is it normal?
thanks

Tomstoy2 · 07-30-2010, 09:03 PM

pinguin · 07-31-2010, 02:02 AM

I heard that Tri Flow is good
http://www.readyheli.com/MINITRIFLOW...e_p_35506.html

07-28-2010, 05:27 PM	#1
ReadyToCrash Registered Users Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: .	how to assemble this main rotor upgrade? hi, I have to assemble the blade grips on the belt cp main shaft. it's a aluminum upgrade - it is not the stock plastic stuff - and I can't find directions in the manual. I wonder if someone knows what's is the right disposition of the the bearings and o-rings on the feathering axis (the transverse axis that keep both grips together). thanks a lot. Attached Thumbnails

07-28-2010, 10:36 PM	#2
Tomstoy2 Registered Users Join Date: May 2010 Location: Erie,Colorado	Not BEng familiar with the Belt's head any longer, bit they are all basically the same. Roller bearing, (one piece), goes into each end of the grips. Thrust bearing, (3 pieces per side) gets grease, don't worry about which kind, then the cup side faces out to retain the grease. This installs on the inside of the grip. There is usually a spacer that goes between the thrust bearing and the grip, but not always. There is usually a washer of some sort that goes between the grip and the rubber dampner that goes into the head. Blue loctite on the bolts. Use two wrenches to tighten both bolts to the shaft at the same time, and do a good job of torqueing the bastards. That's about it, really. Hope this helps. __________________ Avant Aurora 90n,Trex 600E Pro, HC500, HDX450sev4, Trex 250se, mCP-X & mSR, Mosquito, X/A Hexa/WKM/FPV, 450 Flame Wheel,Gaui 330X

07-28-2010, 10:59 PM	#3
chansen1953 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Orange, NSw australia	+1 to tom,, however you may need to add some shims (really thin washers against the blade grips, same qty each side), if it binds when you have tightened the bolts. This is the best spot to put then so you can quickly add/remove as desired. btw.. same technigue is used for main rotor blades as well, I believe good luck .. __________________ Chris, DX7 Electronics, Retired BELT CPV2 2 x HK600GT hybrids - + Blade Nano cpx ! DJI/FreeFlight Quadcopter several planks for relax time ! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I have not failed, I have just found 1000 ways that do not work. Last edited by chansen1953; 07-28-2010 at 10:59 PM.. Reason: spell

07-28-2010, 11:16 PM	#4
CyprusDave Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: May 2008 Location: Bangor, N. Ireland	Good assembly guide here: http://www.buzzflyer.co.uk/ESKY-CNC-...uild-Guide.asp __________________ Belt CP: stock frame, motor, ESC (with UBEC) and boom - all else upgraded! Mini Titan: kit w/ AH-1W Cobra conversion, custom painted. EXI 450: kit with various electrics. HK500-GT: w/ scale AS350 fuselage. Walkera 5G6: custom sport tail. Blade mSR

07-29-2010, 07:35 PM	#6
Tomstoy2 Registered Users Join Date: May 2010 Location: Erie,Colorado	Sure, it's not like they move more than 10 degrees of rotation. I use white grease so I don't have to look at a black mess when it throws it out. __________________ Avant Aurora 90n,Trex 600E Pro, HC500, HDX450sev4, Trex 250se, mCP-X & mSR, Mosquito, X/A Hexa/WKM/FPV, 450 Flame Wheel,Gaui 330X

07-29-2010, 03:48 PM	#5
ReadyToCrash Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: .	hey guys, thanks a lot indeed. can I use Vaseline as grease? thanks again.

07-29-2010, 07:51 PM	#7
sutty Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Manchester, England	Don't see why not. As I discussed with Tom the other day, nothing on my helis ever even lasts long enough to suffer from wear and tear. I think it make degrade the rubber dampeners in truth, but as I said I really never had a set long enough for any form of degredation to occur. Must be bad for rubber though, have you ever seen what it does to a condom? Cheers Sutty __________________ Regards, Sutty BeltEXI, mCX, mSR, 4G3, FBL Trex250SE µB, FBL Trex450Pro µB, FBL Trex550e VX1, FBL Trex600ESP µB, Parkzone P51D

07-29-2010, 09:57 PM	#8
Tomstoy2 Registered Users Join Date: May 2010 Location: Erie,Colorado	God, Sutty, you damn near made me choke! Not too sure but I think condoms are latex, which is probably why you have issues, Sut. Hope you don't have any 'little mistakes' running around buddy. Anyway, don't over lube the bearings, just work a little into the balls is all. __________________ Avant Aurora 90n,Trex 600E Pro, HC500, HDX450sev4, Trex 250se, mCP-X & mSR, Mosquito, X/A Hexa/WKM/FPV, 450 Flame Wheel,Gaui 330X

07-29-2010, 11:04 PM	#9
chansen1953 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Orange, NSw australia	h guys.. I use a silicone oil.. which I had a lot of trouble finding something easy to obtain.. I tried the silicone spray, but it is very thin and soon is spun off. last week I found some silicone diff oil (used by the 4x4 model guys in their PLASTIC diffs !1) this stuff is quite thick, clear and comes in a 50mll bottle for about $7 i think. I put it into a pin oiler, and it's just great for injecting into small and hard to reach areas.. AND it is thick enough to stay there for quite a while. I rate this as a great find !!! - look for "silicone diff oil CS1000" at rc suppliers __________________ Chris, DX7 Electronics, Retired BELT CPV2 2 x HK600GT hybrids - + Blade Nano cpx ! DJI/FreeFlight Quadcopter several planks for relax time ! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I have not failed, I have just found 1000 ways that do not work. Last edited by chansen1953; 07-29-2010 at 11:06 PM.. Reason: add ref

07-29-2010, 11:37 PM	#10
CyprusDave Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: May 2008 Location: Bangor, N. Ireland	+1 to Chris, silicone oil is good. You can also get pure silcone grease (with the thicker consistancy of "normal" grease). You can get it in scuba diving shops (as it doesn't react with high-pressure air), sometimes in auto-parts stores as a lube for battery terminals, or for rubber spark plug caps to stop them sticking to the plugs (as it's safe to use on rubber, doesn't conduct electricity and is waterproof). Usually comes in a small tube or little plastic tub, but a little goes a long way. Just don't get clear silicone sealant by mistake Personally, I'd stay away from the vaseline __________________ Belt CP: stock frame, motor, ESC (with UBEC) and boom - all else upgraded! Mini Titan: kit w/ AH-1W Cobra conversion, custom painted. EXI 450: kit with various electrics. HK500-GT: w/ scale AS350 fuselage. Walkera 5G6: custom sport tail. Blade mSR

07-30-2010, 06:52 PM	#13
chansen1953 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Orange, NSw australia	hi sutty.. yes vaseline and most comercial greases are petroleum based, which is not good for plastic parts. the problem is a lot of the store staff at auto places and hardware stores do not know what you are talking about when you ask for "non-mineral" based oils. Also the product packaging often does not tell the complete truth.. ie synthetic oils are not always mineral (or petroleum) free... for now I am finally happy to have found a source of genuine silicone grease btw-- copterx supply a small bottle of silocone grease with their kits, which is nice ! anyway-- I agree with Sutty.... I will never own a Heli long enough to actually suffer parts corrosion caused by the luubricant !! or even wear and tear caused by non-use of libricants !! __________________ Chris, DX7 Electronics, Retired BELT CPV2 2 x HK600GT hybrids - + Blade Nano cpx ! DJI/FreeFlight Quadcopter several planks for relax time ! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I have not failed, I have just found 1000 ways that do not work.

07-30-2010, 07:03 PM	#14
ReadyToCrash Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: .	hey guys, thanks a lot. i was suspicious that the word ''vaseline'' was going to cause such a controversy . actually i just used vaseline because that's what I had at the moment. during the assembling i found out that flybar that i bought as being "for belt cp v2" was actually thicker than the original one. one can't see the difference with naked eyes but it was pretty hard to make the bar go thru everything it was supposed to. i had to widen some holes with a drill. is it normal? thanks

07-30-2010, 09:03 PM	#15
Tomstoy2 Registered Users Join Date: May 2010 Location: Erie,Colorado	No __________________ Avant Aurora 90n,Trex 600E Pro, HC500, HDX450sev4, Trex 250se, mCP-X & mSR, Mosquito, X/A Hexa/WKM/FPV, 450 Flame Wheel,Gaui 330X

07-31-2010, 02:02 AM	#16
pinguin Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Indonesia	I heard that Tri Flow is good http://www.readyheli.com/MINITRIFLOW...e_p_35506.html

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