Soldering 101 (using a Deans Connector)

[DebianDog]

Bob shows you how to correctly "tin" a wire and solder it to a connector

[rbgrn]

Great video, bob. We all have our own unique ways to hold the connector. I use a set of helping hands and I think they're perfect for the application. I actually did a little photo tutorial of soldering the connectors here - http://www.rbgrn.net/content/52-how-...s-lipo-battery - but now I'm thinking that my methods could be better. I always pre-tin then press the two together with heat, hold until solid, then let go. I've been using a 25 watt iron and while people have told me to go bigger, it's done a pretty good job, though now I'm thinking it's the absolute minimum, and since it's not temperature regulated, it does get too hot.

When I put on connectors, I don't do each pin in one shot. I do one big shot, then two small add-ons to get the tin all the way around each side. For some reason, I figured that if the solder was joined nicely and wrapped all the way around the connector, it would be more durable. I'm thinking that I'm wrong though because the add-ons either cause a re-melt of the whole connection or end up getting added on cold, which doesn't help anything.

My question is: Is the connection just as strong with a bond only on one side of the copper pin or is it stronger if the solder flows over the sides and joins with tin on the back, creating a wrap-around effect. Even if I'm not doing it quite right - that was my goal, to wrap the solder all the way around the copper pin.

I'm going to be doing some 6s packs and I want to make sure my method is up to par going forward. Thanks!

[mstram]

I have a 25watt cheapo soldering iron, and apparently it's not enough power to heat up the connectors, as the solder is not melting, (that I previously melted into the connector) even after holding the tip against the connector for ~5 minutes.

Also I didn't heat the connector when filling the connector, but rather just held the solder against the tip. Is that going to give a less than desirable (if any) "bond" between the connector and the solder?

Will I get better heat transfer if the tip "well tinned", versus "marginally" tinned?

Bob, mentions 35 watts is probably needed.

RS has a variable 20-40 watt one here :http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062750

Is 40 watts going to be effective ? (I hope / guess so since it was working in the video

Is there that much heat output difference between a 25 and 35-40 watt iron?

What wattage are you guys using?

Mike

[nyc863]

I much prefer the butane driven soldering irons. Like the iroda. They are cordless, of course. A proper refill gives you an hour run time. Plus you can take off the tip and use the torch for bullet connectors (which are SO much easier to solder).

[mstram]

Picked up a 65watt iron from Circuit City for $16 .. problem solved

[esant2]

Excellen video Bob,
I am new at this but know just enough to get myself into trouble.
My question is this,should I use flux when I solder wire and is my 25 watt iron enough to do a good job or should I go to a 35?
Thanks

[minimalitia1]

yes you should use the flux. without it its a mess and gets very aggravating trying to solder.
what it does is actually pull the solder into what ever you apply it to. in our case the wires strands.
i actually use a 140/100 watt soldering gun for all my soldering lol

[Airspeed]

Originally Posted by minimalitia1

yes you should use the flux. without it its a mess and gets very aggravating trying to solder.
what it does is actually pull the solder into what ever you apply it to. in our case the wires strands.
i actually use a 140/100 watt soldering gun for all my soldering lol

About those A.C. soldering guns: they are said to create a magnetic field around the tip when you pull the trigger - same as the degaussing widgets that we used to demagnetize tape heads back in the day. For that reason, DC soldering irons or mini-torches might be safer around electronics, such as speed controls. Magnetic fields are not your friend in this hobby!

[Kasey1]

Originally Posted by rbgrn

Great video, bob. We all have our own unique ways to hold the connector. I use a set of helping hands and I think they're perfect for the application. I actually did a little photo tutorial of soldering the connectors here - http://www.rbgrn.net/content/52-how-...s-lipo-battery - but now I'm thinking that my methods could be better. I always pre-tin then press the two together with heat, hold until solid, then let go. I've been using a 25 watt iron and while people have told me to go bigger, it's done a pretty good job, though now I'm thinking it's the absolute minimum, and since it's not temperature regulated, it does get too hot.

When I put on connectors, I don't do each pin in one shot. I do one big shot, then two small add-ons to get the tin all the way around each side. For some reason, I figured that if the solder was joined nicely and wrapped all the way around the connector, it would be more durable. I'm thinking that I'm wrong though because the add-ons either cause a re-melt of the whole connection or end up getting added on cold, which doesn't help anything.

My question is: Is the connection just as strong with a bond only on one side of the copper pin or is it stronger if the solder flows over the sides and joins with tin on the back, creating a wrap-around effect. Even if I'm not doing it quite right - that was my goal, to wrap the solder all the way around the copper pin.

I'm going to be doing some 6s packs and I want to make sure my method is up to par going forward. Thanks!

Nice work--thank you for sharing-
Thanks so much for this. I appreciate the effort. It really helps a lot.

[robindefow]

Nice work--thank you for sharing-
Thanks so much for this. I appreciate the effort. It really helps a lot.

[twiwilbir]

Merci pour le site, des infos a mediter,mais c'est technique .

[Surg]

Originally Posted by minimalitia1

yes you should use the flux. without it its a mess and gets very aggravating trying to solder.
what it does is actually pull the solder into what ever you apply it to. in our case the wires strands.
i actually use a 140/100 watt soldering gun for all my soldering lol

I agree with the use of the Solder Gun 140/100W, cant imagine doing the 5 sets of plugs I just got doing with an iron...

The right tool for the Job, Gun for heavy wires, and Iron for thin wires or circuit boards.

[spec-soul]

One this point, anyone know where to get a good soldering iron?

[Cameron_S]

I have had this hakko station for 3 years and it works great. All sorts of tips available and has a wide range of heat settings. Solder just about anything. http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?PID=1250&Page=1

[wilywampa]

This is the soldering station I use, and it works extremely well. It is temperature-controlled and only costs $42. They sell several sizes of tips for it and replacement heating elements (which I haven't needed yet after 1.5 years).

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438

[Gadget01]

Something not addressed in Bob's otherwise decent video is that when you solder these connectors, there is a tendency to apply some pressure with the iron to get good heat transfer. The connector tabs are set in molded plastic, which can melt and become soft with the iron's heat. When this happens, the tabs can get set a little sideways and then when the plastic cools and rehardens, the tabs are no longer in good alignment. This makes the connectors difficult to mate and even more difficult to separate.

A good technique to use is to mate the connector to its pair before you get started and wait until everything is completely cooled to room temperature before separating them. This nearly guarantees the connectors will insert and remove just as easily as a new unsoldered pair. The extra connector absorbs some of the heat which makes the plastic less likely to melt and deform. The tabs are kept in perfect alignment this way.

Also, Bob does not show using flux. I would never consider soldering without the use of flux, regardless of the solder being flux-core. Metals tend to oxidize when heated which interferes with making a good connection- flux prevents this and acts as a catalyst to the solder- it will flow to wherever the flux is. Always use flux when soldering. Apply it to the wire and tab when you tin them, then reapply after the parts have cooled before you solder the wire to the tab. It makes for a far better connection and it will require less heat.

I can't believe I watched him use his soldering iron to melt the heat-shrink tubing, but I guess that works in a pinch. It pulled back away from the connector and left some of it exposed. A hair dryer will probably just waste your time. A butane torch works, but those are so hot that you can quickly burn things if you are not extremely careful. Best thing is a heat gun where you have manual temperature control and a reducing tip to accurately put the heat where you want it.

If too low of a wattage iron is used, the connector and wire will absorb the iron's heat quickly enough to prevent a good connection. Everything you are soldering is effectively a heat-sink. The larger the wire guage and connector mass, the more effective they are at absorbing heat, thus requiring more heat power (watts) to solder a good connection. I would recommend a 40-watt iron as a minimum.

[diduhearthat]

I have seen it mentioned several times to put the connectors together when you solder them,so they stay aligned if they get too hot and i can see the sense in that for sure.BUT why on the Deans site do they state to solder APART.What is there reason?

[sik304s]

I know this a total noob question but what do question but what kind of solder does the best job I have looked at the rack at Radio 4hack and feel lost as to which kind to get

[spec-soul]

I think as long as it doesn't have acid you should be fine, but some people will say that mercury solder is best, but it can be bad for your health also, so I would not recommend mercury solder.

[sik304s]

Thanks for the answer. I guess its the numbers that they use ratio wise that is confusing and what had me stumped.
Thanks again