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Old 08-18-2010, 06:36 AM   #1
crawl
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Default 6hv build help, please :)

I was wondering if some of you would be willing to share some pictures of your build,

Looking for where everyone is placing their receivers, running wires, RX Pack location, etc..

Any help appreciated .

Edit: New Questions added below!
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Last edited by crawl; 08-21-2010 at 06:18 PM..
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:26 AM   #2
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look here:

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=200854

and here

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=203932
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:04 AM   #3
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5th post down has some other useful links. Scour them, there's a wealth of information in there.
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Old 08-20-2010, 09:24 PM   #4
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Working on building my 6hv. Have all the wiring done.

Went to assemble the boom/tail/etc...

The boom has no key slots in it and has a big ding on it
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Old 08-21-2010, 06:16 PM   #5
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Have the heli very close to done, I am very excited to fly it. But I have a few concerns.

The manual clearly calls for 25mm on the balls on the servo horns, but with the elevator ball 25mm out on the horn the link hits the tail gear at full cyclic 0.o

Also the phasing block does not slide onto the mixing arm assembly very well at all, its very stiff and actually gets stuck. I tried filing a small amount out of the inside where it looks to be hitting the rods but it only helped a little, still very stiff all the way in. I didn't want to take too much material out but it just feels terrible and is making my servos very noisey .

Aside from finishing head setup all I have left to do is test motor direction and she's ready to go!
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Old 08-21-2010, 07:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawl View Post
Have the heli very close to done, I am very excited to fly it. But I have a few concerns.

The manual clearly calls for 25mm on the balls on the servo horns, but with the elevator ball 25mm out on the horn the link hits the tail gear at full cyclic 0.o
I thought 25mm was a bit long. I used Dubro Long/Strong servo horns with the ball at about 22.5mm. Even at that I had to round off the horn right at the ball to keep it from hitting the pully wheel.

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Also the phasing block does not slide onto the mixing arm assembly very well at all, its very stiff and actually gets stuck.
You'll need a small fine tooth needle file to work the groove a bit bigger. There's really no other alternative. However, before you file any further try fitting it on the shaft it in all four possible combinations. You may find one orientation that has little or no binding..
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Old 08-21-2010, 07:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehof View Post
I thought 25mm was a bit long. I used Dubro Long/Strong servo horns with the ball at about 22.5mm. Even at that I had to round off the horn right at the ball to keep it from hitting the pully wheel.



You'll need a small fine tooth needle file to work the groove a bit bigger. There's really no other alternative. However, before you file any further try fitting it on the shaft it in all four possible combinations. You may find one orientation that has little or no binding..
Yeah I've tried that, in 2 directions it won't go on at all, the other 2 go on fine at the top, OK in the middle, and Ewwww at the bottom.

My problem with filing it more is I really can't see where it's getting stuck and I don't want to just keep filing aimlessly lol.
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:19 PM   #8
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My problem with filing it more is I really can't see where it's getting stuck and I don't want to just keep filing aimlessly lol.
If you need to do that sort precision file work a magnifying glass of some sort is handy. I have the kind of magnifying glasses 'hood' that you wear on your head. It can flip up out of the way or you pull it down when you are working close up.

work the phasing block into it's sticky area back and forth. Then look at the INSIDE of the groove for the shiny spots where the pin was rubbing on the groove. Try to just file out the just shiny spots. When you have it close to free, wrap the file with 600 grit paper and finish the entire groove with that.... You will need very small needle file set...or you can do this same work with an appropriate size drill bit and medium and fine sandpaper...Or, you can do it the quick and easy way with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel...Just deepen the groove without widening it...It's much easier to ruin the part with the Dremel approach...
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:35 PM   #9
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I had this issue with the phasing collar and didn't have to do ANY filing. I still have this issue if I put the grub screws in the collar in a certain combination. I put them across from one another, on opposite sides rather than both on one side or both on the same end. Try moving the screws around and see if this eliminates some of the binding. Works a charm for me, mixing slider moves freely now!
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Old 08-21-2010, 09:40 PM   #10
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I had a slight bind in the phasing block on mine, as well.

I gently bent one of the pins (which actually straightened it).

No problem since.

On the servo arms, I am running the 25mm Dubro's. The only binding which occurred was with full collective and forward cyclic. The arm hit the swashplate anti-rotation bracket.

Others had reported this as well-I followed their example and machined out the bottom of the bracket with a Dremel tool.
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Old 08-21-2010, 10:25 PM   #11
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I did have 1 pin that was sightly bent and straightened it but it still didn't fit right. I have the holes deep enough it appears to be rubbing on the "side" of the inside of the groove.

I had my swash kind of high (I guess?) at 60/60/60 so I turned it down (Manual says 45?) and now I don't have the problem with the elevator link hitting the tail gear. I am just afraid that it is not going to be enough pitch for my liking and if I have to turn it up any more than 50 it hits the tail gear.

Also it came with the RC Booya mounts (Bought it from Nankin at IRCHA), and man are they a stretched fit. That I could live with, however one of them also isn't locking . I already cut the canopy holes a little to fit the Booya mounts so now I cant use the stock canopy posts. Oh well, live and learn!

Other than those two things she is ready for a maiden flight tomorrow.

What are most of you running for a throttle curve on the 10t? What is the highest recommended Headspeed on the 10t without "pushing my luck"? I am going to run a flat curve, I really don't like the HW 70HV's governor, I find it to work very poorly (I have the same ESC on my 500).



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Old 08-21-2010, 11:26 PM   #12
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I have not tried the governor.

I am running a "U" shaped throttle curve, with Cyclic to Throttle mixing.

So far I am getting nice, constant RPM, no matter what I am doing (bear in mind I am not a hot 3D flier).
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:37 PM   #13
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as for the mounts, when you slide them through the grommet sometimes you get glue inside the pins. take some cleaning solution and try to clean out the little locking mechanism
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cessna152pilot18 View Post
as for the mounts, when you slide them through the grommet sometimes you get glue inside the pins. take some cleaning solution and try to clean out the little locking mechanism
I'm not sure what you mean by "glue". I have the RC Booya T-Rex 700 rear mounts on mine and I just put the stock Compass grommets in without any adhesive after reaming out the holes to around 7.5mm. The pegs on the quick-release mounts then slid right through those grommets with a little effort.
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:58 PM   #15
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If you are cramming the canopy on and barely making the mounts, you might have trouble getting the pins to engage in the mount. I had this issue on my Atom 5.5 as I was pushing my packs as far forward as possible. It takes a little elbow grease, but as you insert the pin into the mount, it is a 2 stage mechanism. First stage requires a press of the little button on the pin, which allows you to pass to the "mounted" position. Once you pass the first stage, sometiems I have to take both of my thumb nails, pressing firmly onto the head of the pin (not the button) in order to get stage 2 to engage.

Wow, a video would have been easier.
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:59 PM   #16
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Have you machined the auto-rotation guide yet? I also had to machine my pulley gear a bit AND am using servo spacers to get a little extra clearance.
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Once you pass the first stage, sometiems I have to take both of my thumb nails, pressing firmly onto the head of the pin (not the button) in order to get stage 2 to engage.
I do the same with the very tips of my thumb and index finger on the outer edge of the disc on the peg (my fingernails are all chewed off :o) and then I pull out on the "wings" of the canopy to make sure they're secure.
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Old 08-22-2010, 07:45 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the replys!

I don't think I need to do anything to the anti-rotation bracket, it doesn't appear to be binding on it at all. Maybe because of the 8717's?

I will take some cleaning solution to the RC Booya mount, Great Idea!

I will also take a look at shaving some of the tail gear off.

What swash #'s are you guys running?

For curve I was looking for advice on what % you were getting and what RPM you were getting.
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:21 AM   #19
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At the field now, just maidened her! Everything went great and met all of my expectations. Right now i am running a 75% flat curve with a tached headspeed of 2150, flips and rolls fast at 48/48/48 swash with no binding! I am one very happy compass owner .
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawl View Post
I don't think I need to do anything to the anti-rotation bracket, it doesn't appear to be binding on it at all. Maybe because of the 8717's?
I didn't think so either until I applied forward elevator while at maximum collective. You might want to check that if you haven't already. Luckily, the V-Bar allowed me to set a cyclic ring value to limit the throw to about 7 degrees of cyclic. Unfortunately, it means that my cyclic pitch at the extremes of collective pitch is lower than toward zero collective pitch. Still, with 11 degrees of collective, I can get about 7 degrees of cyclic.
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