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120 SR Blade (eFlite) 120 SR Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 11-13-2010, 12:34 PM   #1
reggiepaulk
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Default Blade 120 SR Review



The E-Flite Blade 120 SR is a perfect first-time helicopter. For anyone who's been to a hobby shop and seen the much larger Align series or even the Blade SR or Blade 400, the 120 SR seems downright tiny. Even if you have the money for a larger machine, I would recommend saving it until you master the 120 SR. That decision not only saved me hundreds of dollars, but hours of frustration as well.

I live about two hours from my nearest hobby shop, so my decision to visit one involved a bit of work. I'm glad I did, because I never would have chosen the little 120 SR if I hadn't.

A Google search revealed quite a few hobby shops, but I chose one that had both a physical store and an online presence. Colpar Hobbies has two brick and mortar stores in the Denver metro area as well as an online store. This allowed me to shop prices before calling or walking in, and I enjoy that convenience.

Walking into the store, I was overwhelmed by the sheer selection of flying machines available to the RC enthusiast today. Because I was interested in helicopters, I immediately gravitated toward the Align T-rex 500 sitting on the counter. Even at rest, it's a bit intimidating due to its size. I quickly fell into conversation with Jeff, Colpar's resident helicopter expert.

Jeff was more than happy to show me all of the latest and greatest toys on the market. He even showed me the latest radio gear, and pulled out a Blade 400 to look at. During our conversation, he learned that I had never flown an RC helicopter--only RC cars. I also informed him that I was a full-scale pilot and former flight instructor. As we were discussing the Blade 400, I asked if that would be the helicopter to get. His answer was simple.

"Think of the Blade 400 as a Sukhoi 31 aerobatic airplane," he said. "The Sukhoi is fast and responsive. It's very sensitive to control inputs--not the ideal trainer. You want to start out on something docile and forgiving; like a Cessna."

That made sense to me. I would never want a student pilot to start out in a Sukhoi. After he said that, he pulled down a box containing the 120 SR, sat it on the counter and opened it up.



The 120 SR looks like a delicate mix of tiny plastic and carbon parts. It doesn't give the impression of being robust at all. My first thought was that the slightest crash would utterly destroy this flimsy little machine. In addition, the supplied MLP4 DSM 4-channel transmitter reminds me of the cheap plastic transmitters supplied with Air Hogs helicopters you'd buy at Target.

The DX6i transmitter supplied with the Blade 400 is very appealing, and since it was still sitting there on the counter next to the 120 SR, I was hesitant. Jeff put those doubts to rest.

"Don't let looks deceive you," he said. "This is a very precise, high quality transmitter. The DX6i is a very good radio, but this one is very capable."



He then took out a Blade CX2 to demonstrate the amount of control available with the little black transmitter. Indeed, I was impressed. Both with the CX2 and the radio.

Jeff extinguished any remaining doubts I may have had about pulling the trigger on the 120 SR.

"When you learn how to fly this helicopter," he said, "You'll be able to fly any helicopter in this shop."

That did it for me. I decided right then to make the purchase. Before I headed to the counter, Jeff recommended I buy spare batteries; an extra tail rotor; spare rotor blades and a spare set of landing gear.

"Those are the parts that break the most," he said.

Three weeks later, I can say he was spot-on.


After charging the batteries (I purchased two extra), I turned on the transmitter and hooked the flight battery to the helicopter (without reading the instructions--my first mistake). After it initialized (which you must let it do sitting still on a table top), I slid the battery into its catch in front of the main gear and sat the helicopter down on the floor of my condo. My living room is only about 200 square feet, so I don't have a lot to play with. With a couch, kitchen table, television and various other obstacles, my learning curve was going to be steep.

When you first push the throttle forward on the controller, the rotor blades spinning to life immediately get your attention. Even this little helicopter seems mildly threatening with its whirling plastic blades. And that's while it's still safely on the ground.

As I slowly brought in the power, the helicopter got light on its skids, began to drift left and immediately rolled onto its side as the left skid got hung up on the carpet. This was my first lesson in dynamic rollover--a phenomenon that affects full-scale helicopters with poor dampening in their landing skids, or when they too get their skids caught on ground-based objects. Believe me, you'll get very familiar with dynamic rollover and gyroscopic effects within seconds of your first "flight." After collecting my machine, I looked it over carefully for any damage I may have caused. Luckily, this thing is built to take the punishment, and the only bruising was to my ego.



Placing the helicopter back in front of me, I was ready to go again. This time, I brought the power up more quickly, and it immediately lifted off the ground and began to drift to the left. I countered with too much right aileron, and it shot off to the right--into the couch. I didn't know a couch could do that to a helicopter! The second the blades touched the edge of the couch, the helicopter fell to the ground and began hopping around like it was having a seizure. Again, the helicopter wasn't damaged, and again I placed it back in front of me.

For the next hour or so, I continued to "take off," crash and reset. My palms were sweating, my heart was racing and I was holding my breath for what seemed like minutes at a stretch. Looking back, I was only holding my breath while "flying," so it was only a few seconds at a time. Exhausted and defeated, I called it a night. I had gained no appreciable skill over when I started out the evening, and I seriously wondered why I had spent nearly 200 dollars on this little devil of a flying machine. I was completely at the mercy of this infernal machine.

The next day, I flew in the morning and evening. I slowly began to get the hang of up and down, and started to get a feel for left and right rudder, but the cyclic (aileron and elevator) was still an enigma.

Helicopters are momentum machines. Think of the rotor blades as a disc with a string in the middle. If you pull up on the string (add throttle), the helicopter will lift up. If you move the string in any direction (cyclic), the disc will lean, and the helicopter will begin accelerating in that direction. Notice I said accelerating. If you don't move to correct the tilt, the helicopter will quickly slam into whatever object happens to be in the direction of travel. The problem I encountered was that I would get the helicopter moving in one direction, it would start to get out of control, and I would over control in the opposite direction. This cycle is known as a pilot induced oscillation (PIO). New pilots, be they full-scale or RC, tend to over control their aircraft. Not touching the stick goes a long way toward recovery in this instance.

Don't kid yourself. Learning to hover and fly the 120 SR will take days. And that's just with the nose pointing away from you. You'll go to bed one night thinking you've got it, pick up the controller the next day, and be surprised that you've lost everything you had the previous evening. There's nothing intuitive about it. Eventually though, you'll get to a point where you can start to recover from near disaster without crashing. When you are able to carry on a conversation with someone while flying your helicopter, it's time to turn it around and face it toward you. The conversation will immediately stop.

Full-scale aviation is easy--you're always sitting in the same spot, so your point of view never changes. Model helicopters, on the other hand, require you to learn how to fly from every perspective. Unless you always want to fly with the tail facing you, which would get boring rather quickly, you'll need to master nose-in and sideways orientations as well. The learning curve is exactly the same as when you first started out. You'll over control, panic and crash a lot. Eventually, it starts to make sense, and you'll slowly get the hang of it. Of course, you'll lose it overnight and wonder what happened, but it begins to sink in.

If you fly every day, it will take a couple weeks for you to get comfortable flying your helicopter the way you imagined when you first started flying.

The beauty of the 120 SR is in its simplicity. It's minimal weight is the key to it being able to survive crash damage that would put a larger helicopter out of commission. You can cut the throttle at ten feet, and it will survive the fall. I've used all of the parts Jeff suggested, and one extra set of main rotor blades.

Some of the parts I've had to replace. Extra batteries are a must for more flight time:



Today, I can take the little 120 SR outside and perform maneuvers I couldn't have imagined two weeks ago. Jeff's advice was golden. I know without a doubt I'm ready to move up to a larger collective pitch helicopter.
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:33 PM   #2
RoundWing
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Nice review from the POV of someone new to the hobby with experience flying real ones.

I find my 120SR is a bit large to do much with it in the house. It really comes into its own outdoors on a calm day with the swash links moved to the longer balls. It's smaller brother the mSR is a better choice for indoor practice.

A simple way I found to get oriented no matter which direction the model is pointing is thinking in terms of whether I wanted the model to go straight, turn clockwise or counter clockwise; not tail-in / nose-in, right/left. Regardless of which way the nose is pointing a CW turn always requires the same sticks to the rights rudder / aileron inputs and CCW sticks to the left which made corrections instinctive once I started thinking in those terms.

If you opt for a Spektrum Tx like the DX6i you'll find the controls more precise. It also has the ability to set dual rates, exponential to dampen the sticks around center, throttle curves, and mixes for automatic trimming in forward flight.

A couple mods you may want to do are to trim the left rear skid post which can hit and damage the servo in a hard landing and make a mylar retainer for the little black spacer on the tail rotor which can fly off in a crash.
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Old 11-13-2010, 02:00 PM   #3
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Good review , thanks for shareing your experience .
I am still really enjoying my two Blade 120s

Blade 120
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:39 PM   #4
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I look at it as an MSR for the outdoors.
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:03 PM   #5
rockman4113
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Unhappy I need advice

Getting a first heli, need advice, dude t hobby shop says to start with mCX2, have a buddy that says to go with SR 120 what should I do. ]
liked your advice thanks!!!!!
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:33 PM   #6
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I would start with the either the blade msr or the blade mcx2 before moving to this helicopter. The reason I say this, is because the smaller models are going to do less damage to property indoors. I have all three, and love the 120 the most. I have got to the point I can do circuits in my living room without any crashes with the 120...but that is after flying the smaller models first. I think the 120 is the sturdiest out of all 3 using much thicker plastic that can absorb more shock.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:02 AM   #7
RoundWing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockman4113 View Post
Getting a first heli, need advice, dude t hobby shop says to start with mCX2, have a buddy that says to go with SR 120 what should I do. ]
liked your advice thanks!!!!!
I initially bought a MCX2 and mSR and DX6i receiver at the same time then bought the 120SR a few weeks later. All three will hover "hands-off" when well trimmed but you'll quickly learn "factory test flown" does not mean that every model will jump out of the box into a hover for a rank beginner.

The first part of the learning curve for a rank beginner is a combination of learning to fly while at the same time trying to learn the mechanical aspects of trimming for hover. You need to get the heli off the ground and into a hands-off-controls hover (done mostly with just the throttle), see how it drifts, then make the necessary trim corrections on the transmitter and servo links.

Step two of the learning curve begins when you try to fly forward in a straight and level path. Helicopters don't do that like airplanes because the "wing" rotates with more "transitional" lift on the leading side than trailing and other factors like gyroscopic precession. The helicopter drifts off line and you need to learn to anticipate and correct for it. FWIW - It helps somewhat if you understand the basics of helicopter aerodynamics which are different and more complicated and counter-intuitive than those of an airplane, which is why real pilots go to ground school

As for the models and the learning curve?

The coaxial MCX2 is a no-brainer to hover and fly. The dual coaxial design allows it to fly straight and level better than a single rotor design. Because you don't need to make constantly make corrections to fly it straight it will allow you to quickly master the controls and stick / heli orientation and maneuvers like slow speed rudder turns and even try faster coordinated aileron turns with less crashing than if you start with an mSR. Think of an MCX2 as an investment in training wheels and a "loaner car". You'll learn the basics on it faster with fewer crashes and outgrow it quickly, but it will be nice to have around for visitors to play with and for practicing new maneuvers. The lights on the MCX2 also make it fun to fly in the dark..

The fixed pitch mSR isn't as easy to take off, hover and fly as the MCX2 because its more responsive and less stable in both hover and forward flight. The two mistakes beginners make are overcorrecting with the sticks flying in too small space full of things to crash into. If starting with the mSR you will crash it a lot more than a MSX2 before coming to an understanding how to trim and fly it.

The mSR is surprisingly crash resistant, but crashes which don't cause any broken parts can knock it out of trim in ways a beginner usually won't fully understand. Trying to fly an out of trim model which leads to more crashes. It's a vicious cycle in which an mSR can become so banged-up and out of trim it can't fly well before basic flying skills are mastered. So if you opt to buy a mSR as your first heli, stock up on spare parts: landing skid, blade grips, tail rotors, main rotors. Speaking from personal experience, when I finally got my mSR well trimmed the flying experience went from fighting it and constantly trying to avoid hitting things to one of it going where I wanted it to go.

The 120SR is very similar to the mSR in how it flies but because its larger and faster it requires much more room than most homes have. Where the mSR will bounce off things like walls and lamp shades with no damage to either a blade strike of the 120SR will break the rotor blade or leave your lamp shades full of nicks.

As they said on Star Trek, space is the final frontier... You need space to be able to fly fast and you need to fly fast to execute maneuvers like the banked aileron turns real ones make. If you move the cyclic sideways when the heli is moving slowly it just rolls and slips sideways. So if moving slowly and cautiously around indoors with either an mSR or 120SR you will find yourself mostly keeping the rotor level in forward flight then doing flat rudder turns and 180 tail flips at the end of the room because a banked aileron turn requires more forward momentum than you can confidently generate in that small space at your current skill level.

It's a learning curve thing. At first you need a lot of space just to get up into a hover and keep it off the walls and ceiling. You'll want a lot more space to learn how to fly fast and do aileron turns than most homes have. Then once you learn how to do fly fast and turn confidently in a larger space without crashing you can do the same maneuvers in smaller spaces.

Your choice of model and where and how often you can fly it and practice will, more than anything, determine how fast you climb the learning curve. You won't learn as fast if you are constantly hitting stuff and repairing your model. The difference between the mSR and 120SR is that the larger one handles better outdoors when conditions are other than dead calm. If you have access to a large indoor space like a gym or tennis dome in you can fly either one indoors. But if your indoor flying is limited to a circuit between the family room and kitchen I suggest an mSR for indoor practice and an 120SR for more aggressive outdoor flying. Even after becoming a proficient pilot with outdoor flying (i.e. you stop crashing into things) you'll find the 120SR is just too big to have much fun with indoors.

It's also possible to fly the mSR outdoors, but I tried it a few times and wound up in a constant fight with the slightest breeze. That's why I bought the 120SR. Flying the 120SR outdoors allowed me the space to learn and master the more challenging maneuvers, like fast low altitude aileron turns. That experience then helped me to fly the mSR indoors more aggressively without losing control of it.

My MCX2 mostly sits on the mantle waiting for guests to take it for a spin. The mSR is my daily indoor flyer. The 120SR gets flown outdoors, weather permitting....

If you anticipate buying several models investing in a Tx like the DX6i and getting BNF (Bind aN Fly) versions is a better long term strategy than starting with an Ready To Fly (RTF).
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:23 AM   #8
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The mCX2 is good to get you used to stick movements, but it gets boring quickly. The mSR is small and agile, so it's good in your living room. The 120SR is bigger, faster, and less twitchy, but still pretty agile. Like Roundwing said, you need space to really enjoy it. Both are amazing in a gym. Both will hover in your house. When I get bored, I walk around the house with the 120SR hovering in front of me.

I've learned that you shouldn't completely trust the dude at your LHS, especially if he owns the place. They want your money. If I owned the place, I would tell you to get one of everything.

If you have good reflexes, just go for a mSR or a 120SR. Clear a 10 x 10 spot in your basement, and get it up in a hover. Once you can do that, you'll be fine.

mSR/120SR then SR + sim and you'll be able to fly any heli.
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:12 AM   #9
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THANKS!!!!!!!! you all gave great advice and i will be getting the mcx to start with, thanks for taking me from http://helifreak.com/images/smilies/BangHead.gif to http://helifreak.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif . going to post a review soon http://helifreak.com/images/smilies/4_17_3.gif
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:08 PM   #10
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Excellent Post for the 120 SR.
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:14 PM   #11
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you guys just gave me so confidence.
thanks.
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:17 AM   #12
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Default Excellent posts on this helicopter

Being new to this hobby, I have purchased the mcx2, msr, and 120SR. My experiences have been identical to what has been described on this forum. The mcx2 was easy to master, the 120SR was too large for my living room and created too much damage to furniture. The msr was the Goldilocks model - it is just right in size and performance. The 120SR is a great park flyer on a calm day. A Spektrum DX6i makes a huge difference in the flying and learning experience!

The next model on pre-order is the new mcp X. Another huge learning curve but hopefully I will progress like I did when moving from the mxc2 to the msr
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:40 AM   #13
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Nicely done.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:53 PM   #14
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A very good and reassuring text for a beginner who just picked up his first helicopter today!

One thing I'd like to really figure out first is a "clean" straight lift off. I have the stock radio (RTF model).

Each time I apply throttle the helicopter either spins or it slides side ways. Pushing the trip beneath the throttle (rudder/elevator?) seems to only affect if the heli will spin or slide.

Also, what's this "mode 1/mode 2" that's constantly refered to in the manual?
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:00 AM   #15
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> One thing I'd like to really figure out first is a "clean" straight lift off. Each time I apply throttle the helicopter either spins or it slides side ways.

More experienced pilots can give detail, but assuming your bird is adjusted and trimmed correctly, I believe that is natural due to the way the torques interact. More at http://www.rcheliwiki.com/Frequently..._one_direction

> Also, what's this "mode 1/mode 2" that's constantly refered to in the manual?

This defines which stick controls which air surface. I think most are mode 2. More at http://www.rcheliwiki.com/Transmitter_mode
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:43 AM   #16
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Thanks Matthew!

I've had lots of flights today with my two batteries, and now I've chipped one of my main blades, broken the canopy and broken the battery holder. *sigh*

Even with this damage I've had a great time and look forward to more experience.

The chip in the main blade happened indoors, after overcoming my fear of heights, I had a nice 50 seconds of air time before I lost control by over controlling it and it banged into a chair.

The canopy happened outside in a hedge, I'm not sure but I think it was either a gust of wind or that it came out of range from the radio as I didn't have the skills or the cool to keep the heli under control.

The battery holder was the last thing that went, in the back yard here where there was completely protected from even the smallest breeze, there I crashed into a tree and it fell hard to the ground. Bang, case closed.

I found another thread here before I went to bed last night that explained that the sideways movement is kinda to be expected. It helped a lot to read that, because if I'd been on my own I'd still be trying to get a perfect lift of with hoover.

Well, it's easter here in Norway, so everything is closed until saturday, but I'll be there at smallsize.no first thing when it opens to get new parts!
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:34 AM   #17
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Great review!
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:07 PM   #18
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Like the OP, I entered the world of RC aviation as a pilot of full sized aircraft (notice that I didn't say "real" aircraft. These things are definitely real)

My previous training helped a lot. But it doesn't take long to end up humbled and a little frustrated.

I started with a MSR after getting a 4 channel air hog as a gift for christmas. I now also own a 120 and really believe that the MSR is a far superior starter helicopter. Its benefits all come from the fact that it is very small and light.

1) its small enough to fly indoors. So you don't need much time. If you have 5 minutes you can fly a battery. I find myself flying it before work and also before bed. So you will fly MORE. And stick time is very important here.

2) it doesn't break itself when it crashes. My MSR has well over 300 flights on it and probably somewhere around 500 crashes. Its got its original main motor, rotor blades, blade grips and all head parts. I've replaced 2 tail rotors in addition to the 2 tail motors I've burned up.

3) it doesn't break other stuff or hurt people when it hits them. I keep the heli at about waist level in the house and its not a risk to anyone. Your eyes are about the only thing an MSR could hurt. Thats not the case with a 120.

4) The MSR comes with 2 batteries and a 4 batt charger. Think about it. You can buy 3 extra batts for about $5 and have them all charging independently. Its great because the little heli is always ready to go. Just pluck a batt from the charger and fly. I leave all my batts in the charger so they are always ready to go. At about $3 ea if you buy them in bulk, who cares if they don't last as long as possible.

This is the secret to the MSR. I don't think that there is any other heli out there that gives you the percentage of fun flying time to down time. Read all the threads about people futzing with their helis after a minor "incident". The MSR just runs and runs. There were days I flew it for 2 or 3 hours!!!.

So while the 120 can be hovered and skidded around turns indoors, I find that I have a lot more fun with the MSR, which I can actually do coordinated turns and figure 8s inside.

I think the MSR can prepare you to step up to a CP but I also think that if you want to keep things simple, a 120 can also be a fun step. Its bigger and easier to see outdoors. Its greater weight (especially with RKH metal upgrades and a 1300 mah battery) and higher disk loading helps to reduce how much its affected by wind. Its greater control authority and speed also helps there.

But as I write this, I realize that I've got 10 minutes to spare. Just enough time for 2 batts on the MSR. Its windy outside so there's nothing else thats anywhere near as fun to fly inside.
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:10 AM   #19
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Thanks for the review! I'm getting my 120SR + DX6i tomorrow. The reason I'm buying this bundle is that Jack's taking me into his school and I figured I might as well have a good controller right away. Will also get a couple of extra batteries and some spare parts
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:33 PM   #20
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Really old thread, but a great review. Everything I read has me excited about my 120SR that I'm getting next week.
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120 SR Blade (eFlite) 120 SR Helicopters Information and Help

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