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11-28-2010, 10:32 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Setting up the tail with stock gryo and stock ESC/mixer.
I would like to share the best way I have found to properly set up the tail on a Blade SR.
If your tail blows out while going into idle up or with rapid change in pitch. Either your tail mixer is not set up correctly. Or you tail motor is on its way out. Step 1 : Hook up you gryo to Chanel 5 and use the channel five dial to set the gryo to Rate mode instead of heading hold (HH) mode. (Dial should be at or near 10 o’clock) you are going to do all the adjustments in rate mode. Step 2: Setting up the mixer ( all adjustment must be made to the mixer with the battery disconcted to take effect) Now you are going to trim out the rudder. (rate mode allows you to see the drift easier then when you are in HH mode) Trim out your rudder so it does not drift at center stick. Look at you trim if you had to adjust you trim from center you will need to make adjustment to the mixer. If your trim tab is to the left (meaning the bird was pulling right) that means your mixer should be adjusted towards the ( - ). Make small adjustment until the bird hovers in rate mode with no drift at center stick and you trim centered. If your trim is to the right make small adjustments towards the ( + ) until you get it with no drift and your trim tab centered. It is important to get the mixer dialed in and the trim tab centered as this will give you the right balance between main and tail. If you can not archive this without going to the extremes on your mixer pot then more likely than not your tail motor is on its way out. Step 3: Set the Gryo back to heading hold mode. Channel 5 knob should be at or near 1:30 There should be minimal tail wag (heading hold should now not have to fight any drift from the mixer) and Heading Hold will now have you locked in. When you go from normal to idle up there should be no tail movement same when you quickly raise the throttle/pitch there should be NO tail movement as well. It is important to do the mixer adjustments with the gryo in Rate mode as Heading Hold mode masks any problems with the mixer by self correcting any unwanted drift (excessive tail wag is a symptom of this.) Basic idea for this comes from this video. http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=...name=step7.wmv Last edited by Micfasto; 11-30-2010 at 02:46 AM.. |
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11-28-2010, 11:12 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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This is very, very, very cool! I was just getting ready to get off the computer for the night when I thought I'd double check. This is exactly the sort of info I need to get things going right!.
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11-28-2010, 11:46 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago Area
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Good "how to" on tail/gyro setup.
Note to all... this is how you set up most other HH gyros too. I'm sure most of you will graduate to a bigger bird with a real HH gyro sooner or later.
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Diabolo 700UL / Logo 700 / Oxy 5 / Goblin 500 / Oxy 2 FE / Blade 180CFX / mCPxBL / nano CPS / V-Bar NEO / V-Bar Control / uBrain / DX7
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11-29-2010, 06:38 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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I'm going to give this a shot now. I think the big thing I was missing before was I would try to adjust the pot with the batt connected. But, I've already got the channel five set...
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11-30-2010, 05:08 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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Update:
On some stock gryos you will get a slight amount of drift going from rate mode back to HH mode. It is OK to trim it out a few clicks. It may just be some inconstancies in the E flight gryo that causes this. |
11-30-2010, 08:58 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
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well that was good to hear. Like I said i have had Rate set soild as a rock. Then I go to HH and well a slow piro / drift right. My HH is at 12:15 or maybe less when it does it. Any further than that CW and she just flat out pyro's right.
I have a new gyro and was thinking I would put it on but decided not to. Truth is I have been flying in Rate mode all this time. I will keep messing with it maybe I will eventualy find that sweet spot. |
03-22-2011, 09:29 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quick question. When you are adjusting the 2 in1 mixer in rate mode, you mean the pot on the gyro right? I dont see anything else on the Heli to adjust.
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03-22-2011, 10:41 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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On the bottom of the ESC, that is the pot you will be adjusting.
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Beam E4-(Scorpion HK-2221-6,11T pinion, Phoenix 60, HS65MG cyclics, GY520),120SR, Trex 250SE (stock) MH bottom plate,GY-520,Futaba R6106, MCPx,DX7se,Futaba 8FG Super, HPI Vorza on Futaba 4PL.Honda HS928K1TA |
03-22-2011, 11:06 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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Do you have the gyro sensitivity wire plugged into the Rx? If not, you won't be able to get rate mode from the gyro.
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Danno Blade 500x, Trex 500xt, just back after some time off. You don't ever really QUIT helis do you?? |
03-22-2011, 11:13 AM | #10 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Yes. It's plugged into the gear channel. Now, when plugged in like this it is my understanding that the pot on the gyro itself is disabled. Is this correct? Or does it need to be at 12:00? |
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03-22-2011, 11:31 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Yup, gyro pot is disabled, so the one you want to adjust is on the bottom of the heli between the skids.
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Danno Blade 500x, Trex 500xt, just back after some time off. You don't ever really QUIT helis do you?? |
03-22-2011, 11:34 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Thanks so much.. that helps a lot.
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03-22-2011, 12:22 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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How critical is the position of the gyro as it sits on the frame? Mine is turned slightly looking down at it with the tail towards me. Meaning the gyro case isn't at a right angle to the tail boom looking down at it, it is turned counter clockwise a few degrees. Will that affect the performance of the gyro, if so guess I better peel it up and re-position it. TIA
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Beam E4-(Scorpion HK-2221-6,11T pinion, Phoenix 60, HS65MG cyclics, GY520),120SR, Trex 250SE (stock) MH bottom plate,GY-520,Futaba R6106, MCPx,DX7se,Futaba 8FG Super, HPI Vorza on Futaba 4PL.Honda HS928K1TA |
03-22-2011, 01:08 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Actually, I really don't know on this gyro, as far as I know with most as long as it's 90 degrees to the main shaft, it should work fine. If it's only off by a small amount and doesn't seem to be affecting anything, then I wouldn't worry too much until a rebuild required it's removal. Still, mounting tape is pretty cheap and peace of mind is priceless Takes all of a minute to remount it right? Being as obsessive complusive as I am, I would probably remount it just cuz it didn't look square regardless of performance hahaha!
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Danno Blade 500x, Trex 500xt, just back after some time off. You don't ever really QUIT helis do you?? |
03-24-2011, 06:21 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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There is another reason why the tail blows out that you should be aware of. The battery can also cause a blow out in an otherwise correctly setup heli's. Here is what happens. The battery is weak or has a low C rating....or maybe you are 4 minutes into a 5 minute flight. You punch the pitch or throttle and the main motor sucks most of the juice....leaving the tail motor with not enough juice to keep up and it blows out. This is one of the main problems with the MCP X heli. So, you need to have a good battery, with a higher C rating than stock.....and not fly you battery too low.......J
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03-25-2011, 12:26 AM | #16 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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Quote:
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03-25-2011, 05:22 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Best SR advice I got from this forum (sorry but I cannot find the original thread) was to unplug the gain plug from your SR Rx (if you have connected it to ypur Rx) and turn the gyro gain pot to zero (full ccw). The get the heli into a low hover and if it turns right/left adjust the esc trim bottom pot until it holds pretty well. You need to restart the heli after each adjustment btw.
After this, you just adjust the gyro pot gain to where it just holds the tail without any waggles. After this, I fiound that I needed to adjust my rudder subtrim (or just rudder trim if you just have a stock Tx) +/-4 clicks and the tail holds fine, for all the flight. modes Do this and limit your runtimes to ~5 min (and let your motors cool ~5-10 min between flights) and your tail will hold great and your tail motor will last for a very long time. Cheers, TomC
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03-28-2011, 02:08 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Still don't think it's right. Rebuilt after last mondays crash, all calibrated and matched w/dx7. But the tail is still squirly.
Here's what I did: I went into the gyro menu on dx7 and set gyro gain to 35 to get into Rate mode. Got into hover and needed a lot of right trim. After several adjustments and rebooting heli after each adjustment, the ESC pot was all the way to the + side. Got into hover and still took about 4 or 5 clicks right trim. Then went to HH mode by going into dx7 and adjusting gain to 70. Got into hover and tail holds but still drifts a little in an unpredictable way. Of course it flys just as well as it ever did when bound to the stock tx. Except since I have higher head speed on the dx7 , its much easier to control. Not happy with that darn tail though. Might try replacing the tail motor with a new one since I have a spare. But 1st I might do as Tom C mentioned and go into rate mode by unplugging the gyro from the rx and turning the gyro pot all the way to -, then try setting the mixer on the ESC. Wondering if the rate mode gain wasn't optimum when I used 35 for rate mode in dx7 gain menu. And doing it on the gyro pot might take this variable out. Help.. what do you guys think? |
03-28-2011, 05:43 PM | #19 (permalink) |
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I wouldn't disconnect the gyro, just set it to 50% on your radio and that will turn it right off, no input at all. Then you can set the gain on the esc pretty readily without worrying if the gyro is playing into any of your setup. The way you're describing it, sounds like the tail motor may be weak, might wanna change it for peace of mind like you're suggesting.
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Danno Blade 500x, Trex 500xt, just back after some time off. You don't ever really QUIT helis do you?? |
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