Best FBL head setup

[2010MustangGT]

snemi00, my head and mainshafts came in today. Both look great! Thanks again.

[rocoho]

That that is necessary, the excellent decision!
Send to Russia?

[rocoho]

That that is necessary, the excellent decision!
Send to Russia?

[snemi00]

Originally Posted by 2010MustangGT

snemi00, my head and mainshafts came in today. Both look great! Thanks again.

Thanks, I was hoping people would start receiving them soon.
Please let me know how it goes, you should notice an improvement over the stock setup.

[bluewater78]

Hi snemi00 would you have anymore of your custom heads available?

[snemi00]

i have 3 left right now. I am planning another batch but it maybe a while, I'm going to France in a few weeks. I'll have heli withdrawal pains for a week!!

[bandikoi]

If you have one left, I would like to purchase one. Just how much and to whom do I send the moola.
Thanks
Chuck

[snemi00]

PM sent.

[amatii]

Will you sell your products in Ukraine? Or can it be sold at some online store?

[755 robert]

I just made this fbl head from scratch, all from parts off the existing head.Flies great.I have the 2610v rx.The real key for mine was putting the heavier cf blades..Thanks for all the good ideas..

[hjns]

Originally Posted by 755 robert

I just made this fbl head from scratch, all from parts off the existing head.Flies great.I have the 2610v rx.The real key for mine was putting the heavier cf blades..Thanks for all the good ideas..

I like your setup!

[snemi00]

Looks good. I have that style of setup still installed on my Extreme frame machine like I show a few pages back and I like it. I noticed you still have the stock 4G6 swash on there. This affects the geometry of the system as the V120 swash has the inside set of balls much closer in to center which increases the resolution.
Think of it this way, for a given amount of movement of the servo horn, you get a given change in blade pitch. The closer in the inside swash balls are or also, the further out the outside swash balls are, the more that you need to move the servo in order for the blade pitch to change. This is what determines how much resolution the system has. The more the servo moves, the more digital "steps" the system counts. If it only moves a small bit to change pitch, then there are less "steps" or resolution.

In your setup, I would recommend you move the ball on your servo horns in closer one hole and I guarantee you your heli will fly smoother and far less twitchy. You will obviously need to setup the travels and maybe pitch curve when you do this.
Let me know if I am not explaining myself properly.
I am assuming you're using the 2610V on there? Or is it the 4g6S?

[755 robert]

I understand what you are saying, it is a bit twitchy.There is a very fine margin on the gain between oscillation (gain too high) and uncontrollable (gain too low),it is the 2610-V rx.It was really bad before I went with the heavier blades. I will move the servo ball to the inner hole and see what happens.I think I will go ahead and order a v-120 swash also.Thanks much for the tips.I find this to be an awesome and fun project,I cannot believe how much I am learning about the physics of these little machines..One more question..Does the aile/elev ext pot also increase the pitch range?

[snemi00]

Originally Posted by 755 robert

I understand what you are saying, it is a bit twitchy.There is a very fine margin on the gain between oscillation (gain too high) and uncontrollable (gain too low),it is the 2610-V rx.It was really bad before I went with the heavier blades. I will move the servo ball to the inner hole and see what happens.I think I will go ahead and order a v-120 swash also.Thanks much for the tips.I find this to be an awesome and fun project,I cannot believe how much I am learning about the physics of these little machines..One more question..Does the aile/elev ext pot also increase the pitch range?

The inner holes will smooth it out and make it feel much better until you get the V120 swash.
The ail/ele pot only adjusts cyclic travel. If you have throttle hold setup like in my video with a linear curve, go into it and put your collective stick to midpoint and verify you have 0 pitch. Then keep it there and line your blades up front to back perfectly straight over the boom. When you move your aileron stick you can now measure the aileron travel if you have a pitch gauge. If you hold the aileron stick full left or right, then turn the pot and you will see the blades increase. Try and set it for about 9deg +\-
Now if you spin the blades 90deg to being across the heli, perpendicular to the boom you can check the elevator direction.
To adjust the collective pitch, see my video, you need to use the trav adj function for pitch.

[755 robert]

Well I moved the links in on the servo horns,this helps quite a bit ,I was able to increase gain about an 1/8 turn without getting the wobble in a hover..After work I hope to get some outdoor testing done.

[snemi00]

Glad to hear it. When you get the 120 swash, put the links back to the center hole. It will be very smooth and responsive.

[badow24]

Hi snemi00

Hi i want to set up my 4g6 flybarless just like what you are doing with the metal rod through the center of the head and through the long links. But it is just the grips I am having problems with. I tried to even bend the red walkera grips inward far enough to be able to just put on and ball link and no need for a 3.5mm spacer, results are they are junk and don't bend the greatest and are not strong enough. But I see in yours u have made a aluminum spacer. But I could do that but I don't have those 1.2mm screws. Where do I find those?? I even thought maybe the ball joints from the v120d02 grips would be long enough, but I haven't seen anyone using that idea so maybe wont work.

Thank you for your time

[755 robert]

Originally Posted by snemi00

Glad to hear it. When you get the 120 swash, put the links back to the center hole. It will be very smooth and responsive.

Great, the 120 swash is on its way(5 to 7 working days)..Thank you so much for all the help on this...

[755 robert]

Update: I got a couple of test flights in after work.Hovering in the wind it is pretty stable,fast forward it is real fast, I really have to keep it in check it just wants to go.:.Piros are screaming fast and it holds level very well with the fast piros.The only problem is flipping inverted,it seems like the gyros are getting confused in the flips, as it comes over the top it gets very squirrely and will dive off to the side.I am thinking maybe some adjustment on the delay might help with this.(not sure) or maybe my pitch and cyclic travels need some fine tuning,currently I have +-7 on cyclic and +-10 on pitch..It got pretty windy so I hung it up for the night..Overall I am pleased so far,I just hope I can keep from crashing it too much trying to figure out what is happening with the flips..

[snemi00]

Originally Posted by badow24

Hi snemi00

Hi i want to set up my 4g6 flybarless just like what you are doing with the metal rod through the center of the head and through the long links. But it is just the grips I am having problems with. I tried to even bend the red walkera grips inward far enough to be able to just put on and ball link and no need for a 3.5mm spacer, results are they are junk and don't bend the greatest and are not strong enough. But I see in yours u have made a aluminum spacer. But I could do that but I don't have those 1.2mm screws. Where do I find those?? I even thought maybe the ball joints from the v120d02 grips would be long enough, but I haven't seen anyone using that idea so maybe wont work.

Thank you for your time

You can't bend the links in, they are not malleable enough and will crack or twist. You'll never get them to stay in track either once you distort them. It looks to me like rough cast aluminum that they finish machine. Poor quality at that.
You can try the plastic grip version, it works very well and is an easy mod. If you want to stick with the metal, I strongly suggest the micro-heli grips, they're awesome. I special ordered those 1.2mm screws and made the aluminum threaded spacer. However, the screws used in the Extreme Frame are mostly 1.2 mm and a replacement set of them is very inexpensive the bigger problem for you will be finding a 1.2mm tap.
I originally thought of using the 120 ball studs as well, but not the right length. Too bad, they would have been perfect.