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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 12-31-2010, 02:11 PM   #1
Pipes
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Default Re;T-Rex 500ESP T/T VS Belt driven

I am new at this hobby and have a T-Rex 500ESP T tube sysytem. I keep landing hard and stripping the gears etc. Is it possiable to change to a belt driven system without any major changes.I just fly regular no 3d.
Thanks
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:14 PM   #2
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I am new at this hobby and have a T-Rex 500ESP T tube sysytem. I keep landing hard and stripping the gears etc. Is it possiable to change to a belt driven system without any major changes.I just fly regular no 3d.
Thanks
get the belt drive kit, and slap it on.... ill give you a link to every thing you need in the plastic version but you can also get the metal belt drive tail too.


http://www.helidirect.com/align-tail...500-p-5573.hdx

http://www.helidirect.com/align-tail...500-p-5574.hdx

http://www.helidirect.com/align-tail...500-p-5571.hdx

http://www.helidirect.com/align-tail...500-p-6061.hdx

i think that is every thing
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Old 12-31-2010, 02:27 PM   #3
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You also need the tail shaft. http://www.helidirect.com/align-tail...500-p-6060.hdx

A couple more things. I don't think the front boom block comes with screws so you'll need some of those. The TT block uses machine thread screws which don't work well in plastic. You need like the long frame screws.
Also the plastic tail case doesn't come with the two long screws/nuts that hold it on the boom. I ended up having to go to the hardware store and finding a couple that would work.

I just did this conversion last month and it works well. I'll be ordering the rear metal tail case next week so I can get rid of the plastic one.
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:09 PM   #4
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You also need the tail shaft. http://www.helidirect.com/align-tail...500-p-6060.hdx

A couple more things. I don't think the front boom block comes with screws so you'll need some of those. The TT block uses machine thread screws which don't work well in plastic. You need like the long frame screws.
Also the plastic tail case doesn't come with the two long screws/nuts that hold it on the boom. I ended up having to go to the hardware store and finding a couple that would work.

I just did this conversion last month and it works well. I'll be ordering the rear metal tail case next week so I can get rid of the plastic one.
yeah forgot that one part, i have a complete belt drive kit, part of me is tempted to try it, i was not aware that the hardware was not the same. interesting. i have a box of hardware that came with my heli, the belt kit came with it aswell, it was upgraded to the TT when i got it. i guess ill halve to look and see if i have the harware for it.. i will probably never switch over, i dont crash often these days

today i almost dug the tail in the the ground when i was flying low and looked down for a second, when i looked up i had just enough time to save it... spending the extra money on the gears and all that when you do crash sucks.
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:44 PM   #5
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Funny, I swapped my CF belt to a TT, ESD's were too unpredictable. I did the grounding thing and it was still evedent. The TT cured it for good, instead of swapping in a belt, mount 600 class landing gear to raise it up a bit, or lengthen the vertical fin, until you can master a good landing.
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Old 12-31-2010, 10:48 PM   #6
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Yes the true means to end stripped TT gears is to not hit the tail on stuff, but a belt is a viable solution in the short term... I have both, both work well, the only thing I did to avoid ESD was to spray the belt with silicon spray every couple of weeks of use... 2 years later still working good!
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:50 AM   #7
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Default Tail

I can see you banging the tail a couple times but after that I would think you have control of it.. The 500 takes a lot of collective coming in for a landing compared to 450.. If your throttle curve is too low it makes it worse. The best way to land a 500 IMO is to auto from like a foot high.Get it in a hover a foot high and pull the throttle hold. as it comes down just bleed in some collective.. It won't just fall out of the air like you think it would. If you do bump the tail doing it this way, you are much less likely to strip something when not under power.. Takes the load off the system. If you go the auto route, you need to be running at least 90% flat curve on throttle..

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Old 01-01-2011, 07:48 AM   #8
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I can see you banging the tail a couple times but after that I would think you have control of it.. The 500 takes a lot of collective coming in for a landing compared to 450.. If your throttle curve is too low it makes it worse. The best way to land a 500 IMO is to auto from like a foot high.Get it in a hover a foot high and pull the throttle hold. as it comes down just bleed in some collective.. It won't just fall out of the air like you think it would. If you do bump the tail doing it this way, you are much less likely to strip something when not under power.. Takes the load off the system. If you go the auto route, you need to be running at least 90% flat curve on throttle..

Chris
i m doing the same thing too autos for landing
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueabyss View Post
I can see you banging the tail a couple times but after that I would think you have control of it.. The 500 takes a lot of collective coming in for a landing compared to 450.. If your throttle curve is too low it makes it worse. The best way to land a 500 IMO is to auto from like a foot high.Get it in a hover a foot high and pull the throttle hold. as it comes down just bleed in some collective.. It won't just fall out of the air like you think it would. If you do bump the tail doing it this way, you are much less likely to strip something when not under power.. Takes the load off the system. If you go the auto route, you need to be running at least 90% flat curve on throttle..

Chris
about 3 foot is the most i would do a small auto from, i did one around 4 foot and it ran out of power pretty fast, i did on from a little over 5 foot yesterday and it did run out of power and plopped down on my landing pad kind of hard. not a big deal but that could easily cause a tip over or something if your not on top of your game.

little autos from 1-2 feet and it just seems to glide down nicely... i have always heard autos work best less than 4 foot from the ground or when you are really high up.. i find that to be a true statement...
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Old 01-01-2011, 08:59 AM   #10
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Get a couple of thick washers and longer screws, and use them between the landing gear and the frame in the back. This will tilt the heli forward a bit, and help keep the tail out of the grass. I've done this on all my TT hellis. You still have to be careful and fly the thing to a stop, but it gives you a little extra margin. It only takes a few degrees tilt to give you a few extra inches.
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:13 AM   #11
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Here is a tip I got from Rick at Heliproz that I have done to all four of my helis. Take the landing gear struts off and turn them around so they lean back. Slide the skids back as far as they will go in the struts and put the rubber strut sleeves for the rear back at the tip of the skid. This will change the balance point on the gear and help keep the tail blades out of the grass. It won't help much on pavement.

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Old 01-01-2011, 07:16 PM   #12
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thats what I did also. and I raised the tail with a 1" extenstion, using a old tail skid....
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:22 PM   #13
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You can also use a T600 tail fin, trim abut 1/2 inch from the bottom.

+1 on belt drive.....
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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.

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