NEW upgraded 600 size from Align!

[motorcycleguyr1]

Dont get your hopes up... This is not advertizing a new heli from Align. Im asking a question... When does Align plan on coming out with a new 600ESP. Like a V2 or something possible? Does anyone else think this is a good Idea? I think they need to take the 600ESP and give it a work over. What changes would you guys like to see?

[motorcycleguyr1]

Things that i think should be included...

1. 3rd Bering block
2. It should come stock with 2mm thick frames
3. Mod 1 maingear and a beefier 1 way bering
4. Upgraded torq tube gears. Stronger or larger like the Trex 700 gears.
5. I have always had issues with torqing down the tail case. That nut needs to be stronger. It strips out and you need to get a longer one with a lockwasher to secure it properly.
6. The front tail boom block needs to have upgraded area where you pinch the boom in. I have probs when you tighten too much the spot where the nut sits will rotate in the plastic and you cant get them as tight as you would like.

Those are my major conscerns. What do you guys have?

[Ken4]

Also needs a motor pinion counterbearing.

[motorcycleguyr1]

good point. It should also act as a frame brace further adding to reduce frame flexing.

[Ken4]

It is common problem for the top motor bearing/motor shaft for powerful motors to wear quickly and it causes problems with meshing. Mikado and Compass have this for their HV helis, hopefully align will have this option soon.

[Pitbro50]

Flybarless

[highland flyer]

No 5 and 6 are easily re-solved.

No 5 The 550 Tail gearbox housing fastens as per a 700 using the same running parts.

No 6 Use a locating screw as per the 600N

Brian

[reALIGNed]

I can't imagine ALIGN updating the 600 anytime soon,................they just did about a year ago, been named the "600ESP", replacing the belt driven CF model. And now w/the more efficient stock 6S set up on the 550E, ain't no chance in hell they'll improve the 600, in fact they may even discontinue it.

[DesJardins]

Suck to hear a rumor of discontinuing the 600, the reason I went 600 this month was to get the largest electric on 6S.... Because the price to run the 700E on batteries was just too much :-(

But if so then it is what it is :shrug:
Guess you have to pay to play or you don't play at all

[minititinflyer]

there a reason on y it was made so and there wouldnt discontinue its there longest standing big heli bc the was there first big heli

[DesJardins]

I guess this is why you never listen to forum talk until you see a formal post from the manufacturer... lol

Suggestions are great for advancements, opinions are based on personal speculation.

[motorcycleguyr1]

good tip with the 550 tail case. I might order some of those and upgrade my 600s.

[BigIreland]

I just want to stretch a 550E, go 10-12s and call it a day. That's how I'll get an upgraded 600E

[DesJardins]

Shoot if you go 550E, leave it as is and enjoy the power to weight ratio as it was designed IMHO. :shrug:

I almost went 550E for that reason but realized I'm no 3D master so I won't be doing and Szabo Jr. tricks anytime in the next year without. SIM! lol

That's the one downfall of me learning to fly on the real Heli vs a SIM but the Mac emulator sucks and I'll have to wait to get my hands on a PC tower I can hook up to my big tv

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

1. 3rd Bering block

How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget.

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

2. It should come stock with 2mm thick frames

CHP-T620 Custom Heli Parts - Trex 600 ESP 2mm Carbon Fiber Frames (Now Include Provisions for 3rd Bearing Block)

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

3. Mod 1 maingear and a beefier 1 way bering

A KDE hub with either 700 mod 0.7 or 1.0 gear will be suffice.

AT550/600-MGC
T700 MAIN GEAR CASE
ALUMINUM 6061-T6
ALIGN TREX 600 ELECTRIC SERIES



However, with well over 400 flights, the 12s 4025-550kv motor with 17T pinion hasn't yet stripped a main gear.

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

4. Upgraded torq tube gears. Stronger or larger like the Trex 700 gears.

Umm???

Better meshing retained by bonding shafts to inner racers of supporting bearings appears to be working well.

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

5. I have always had issues with torqing down the tail case. That nut needs to be stronger. It strips out and you need to get a longer one with a lockwasher to secure it properly.

A pinned version has been released.

Tail unit set H55039

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

6. The front tail boom block needs to have upgraded area where you pinch the boom in. I have probs when you tighten too much the spot where the nut sits will rotate in the plastic and you cant get them as tight as you would like.

Sounds like the bolts are being over tightened if the nuts are rotating within the plastic block.

The 'socket button head screw' should prevent the boom exiting the boom block mid-flight.

[DesJardins]

Great post!

[Helicentrik]

Why worry about a manufacturer discontinuing a particular model. I'm pretty sure that about 80% of my original ESP is not there any more but has been replaced with after market gear.

[DesJardins]

Ehhh my new ESP kit that was just built has all the new stuff anyways like the Pinned tail. Socket buttoned boom, new Mx motor....

[motorcycleguyr1]

Yes I am aware of all these things. I have KDE Hubs and either mod 1 or TREX 700 gears on all my 12s setups. I fixed the booms by drilling and pinning myself and I drill all my 3rd bering block locations. It would be nice though if they came setup this way so you dont have to do all the extra work and sink all the extra money into upgrades to handle 12s. especially when you crash and break a frame and have to re drill bering block holes everytime and cut the frame to accept a scorpion motor. The tail case though i did not know about. Very glad i found out about it. One of my big conserns though is not fixable... That would be the torq tube gears. The reason i try to torq down the boom case so tight i rotate the nuts in place is not to keep the tail from ejecting... It is to keep the tail from moving in. See i have this problem... I setup one 12s monster with a 4025-630 and for some reason keep shreading torq tube gears. So I switch to belt drive on that one to fix it. Well i can not maintain proper belt tightness because you cant pinch the boom solid. One run and it loosens up. you cant go any tighter because the nuts just spin in the plastic. I was told not to adjust the slack from the tail end of the boom. what were you refering to to stop the gear shreading? i did not understand what you ment..

Originally Posted by rceccleston

How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget.



CHP-T620 Custom Heli Parts - Trex 600 ESP 2mm Carbon Fiber Frames (Now Include Provisions for 3rd Bearing Block)





A KDE hub with either 700 mod 0.7 or 1.0 gear will be suffice.

AT550/600-MGC
T700 MAIN GEAR CASE
ALUMINUM 6061-T6
ALIGN TREX 600 ELECTRIC SERIES



However, with well over 400 flights, the 12s 4025-550kv motor with 17T pinion hasn't yet stripped a main gear.



Umm???

Better meshing retained by bonding shafts to inner racers of supporting bearings appears to be working well.



A pinned version has been released.

Tail unit set H55039




Sounds like the bolts are being over tightened if the nuts are rotating within the plastic block.

The 'socket button head screw' should prevent the boom exiting the boom block mid-flight.

[rceccleston]

Originally Posted by motorcycleguyr1

One of my big conserns though is not fixable... That would be the torq tube gears. The reason i try to torq down the boom case so tight i rotate the nuts in place is not to keep the tail from ejecting... It is to keep the tail from moving in. See i have this problem... I setup one 12s monster with a 4025-630 and for some reason keep shreading torq tube gears. So I switch to belt drive on that one to fix it. Well i can not maintain proper belt tightness because you cant pinch the boom solid. One run and it loosens up. you cant go any tighter because the nuts just spin in the plastic. I was told not to adjust the slack from the tail end of the boom. what were you refering to to stop the gear shreading? i did not understand what you ment..

I too am running a 12s setup, the creator of the How to - 12s T-Rex 600 Setup On A Budget., with no stripping of main gear or torque tube issues.

However, when installing the boom, I do the following which maybe making the difference.

1. Back the boom off by 1mm, so not to tension the boom,
2. Installed second torque tube bearing, 210mm from either end,
3. Bond inner racers of bearings to shafts, using 'Loctite 641 - Retaining Compound',

I found by bonding the inner racer of the bearing to the shaft, the meshing of the torque tube gearings can be adjusted and retained without the shafts turning within the inner racer.

The bond has never broken, even after stripping the gear during a crash, unless heat is applied to the shaft.

Personally, since 12s was a mere dream when the belts were designed, I doubt they have been tested to withstand the huge loads of 12s power systems.