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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 02-04-2011, 07:22 AM   #1
FurryTrex
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Default little FBL help..

Just got my 3G FBL head in. going to install it tomorrow. after reading the 3g manual, have some questions.
BTW i will be using a BEAST X with this 3G Head.

1. Manual states to use the ball links that come with the 3G kit, are they somehow different than the ones from the normal ESP kit?

2. the manual states 21mm between ball links on the servo to swash plate linkages. is this correct?(reason I ask is people have stated the length on the ESP kit manual are wrong)

3. the 3G manual states to put the ball ends on the servo arms in the holes that are 2nd one out from the center. yes or leave them according to the ESP manual?

4. Any other tips or tricks to setting up FBL on the 500??

thanks again guys..
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:00 AM   #2
Geardaddy
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I found all the link lengths to be perfect in the ESP/3G manual.. I'm away from home today, but I can measure them for you if someone else doesn't chime in.. I think the error was only in the standard ESP manual..
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:24 AM   #3
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i have my links per the manual and when i center the servos the blade pitch is way off. i dont think the manual is correct. i still need to get my esc back before i can set up this unit so i do nothave the correct length to give you.
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:03 PM   #4
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The lengths for the long links from the swash to the grips are correct IF you have the old main shaft. If you have the new shorter FBL main shaft then it is 5 mm shorter.

The links from the servos to swash should be closer to 19.5 mm

With the FB kits it was 4-6 turns you needed to shorten the links. I found when I did the 3G conversion the shorter length was still correct.

To really confuse you I found when I later switched to the shorter FBL main shaft I needed to shorten the lengths of all the links again.

Start with the links as per the manual. With the servos at 90 at mid stick (with a linear pitch curve) first check for 0 pitch, and adjust the grip links accordingly. Then measure pitch at hi and low stick. If they are not equal you will need to lower the swash up shortening the servo/swash links a few turns. You will then need to reset the grip links for zero pitch at mid stick.

Keep repeating until you get even pitch throws at high and low stick.

It all sounds like a PITA but in the end it will all be worth while. The better you get the mechanical setup the better the FBL controller will work, and the better the heli will fly.
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:12 PM   #5
dannylightning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deet View Post
The lengths for the long links from the swash to the grips are correct IF you have the old main shaft. If you have the new shorter FBL main shaft then it is 5 mm shorter.

The links from the servos to swash should be closer to 19.5 mm

With the FB kits it was 4-6 turns you needed to shorten the links. I found when I did the 3G conversion the shorter length was still correct.

To really confuse you I found when I later switched to the shorter FBL main shaft I needed to shorten the lengths of all the links again.

Start with the links as per the manual. With the servos at 90 at mid stick (with a linear pitch curve) first check for 0 pitch, and adjust the grip links accordingly. Then measure pitch at hi and low stick. If they are not equal you will need to lower the swash up shortening the servo/swash links a few turns. You will then need to reset the grip links for zero pitch at mid stick.

Keep repeating until you get even pitch throws at high and low stick.

It all sounds like a PITA but in the end it will all be worth while. The better you get the mechanical setup the better the FBL controller will work, and the better the heli will fly.
so you can use the stock shafts or the FBL main shaft ???, i guess i bought the short ones for nothing..
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Old 02-04-2011, 07:09 PM   #6
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man o man. i am lost now.. do i have to buy a shorter main shaft now as well??
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:52 PM   #7
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No, you don't need the shorter shaft, in fact I don't think it makes any difference except all the links need to be shorter.

I swapped to the shorter shaft only because I got a set of them in with a pack of parts I bought 2nd hand. The helis was already apart at the time so I figured I would swap over to the shorter version.

IF you happen to bin the heli and need a new main shaft then switch to the FBL one but in the meantime don't change it for the sake of it.

I only mentioned the shorter shaft because I assume that the 500 ESP 3G combo may ship with that part now.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:04 PM   #8
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the shorter shafts cost more money, i guess they make you think you need it so they can charge more for it. lol
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:07 AM   #9
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Swash ballinks used on the 3G are shorter and is used for the uplinks to the blade holders. This combined with 21mm on the servo arms gives the correct mechanical gain and servo resolution.

With a RX battery pack attached to the RX, prevents BEC overheating in the ESC, do the setup as per instrucrions. There are good tips in the 3G specific forum here on Helifreak.
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:37 AM   #10
dannylightning
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damn, i dont have the 3G swash plate so my balls are too long. lol
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Old 02-05-2011, 11:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
3. the 3G manual states to put the ball ends on the servo arms in the holes that are 2nd one out from the center. yes or leave them according to the ESP manual?
The 3g instructions are correct for this. The balls should be on the second hole of the control arm. approx 16mm. This provides more resolution for the FBL unit 3G or not. Most FBL unit instr suggest this.
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