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Old 03-10-2011, 06:52 AM   #61
chansen1953
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raf.. just when you thought this thread was dead !!!
I finally got some more cell-log units... I think I blew the output trans on the other other ones whilst testing... so I ordered several more.. well I don't really need the discharge device .. but I hate to work on a project and not finish it .. or at least figure out what went wrong !!
i got some new units and connected a led with a 3S cell via the alarm output, and tried the various NC and NO options .. just to see if the cell-log was working ok.. It is now working fine .. and I understand how it works.. so my next step is to try it in the final cirrcuit..
I did obtain a 24V computer fan.. just in case heatsink was inadequate... as I do have a few 6000mah Nano-tech 50C cells that I really want to look after ( they cost a lot $$ !!)
so I am about to connect it all up and hope my diode is the right way round.. if not, I can see the the alarnm output can be blown easily.. so I have a spare cell-log just in case...
I have to say.. this is now costing me a lot.. but hey.. so much fun ,,and I am sure it will save me expensicve LIp'os in the future.

I love playing with electronics... just been a while .. I did do a lot many years ago.. and I hate let something as simple as this beat me !!

btw. great project man.. well thought out.. and good to leverage a cheap cell-log device to solve a heli battery problem !! well done !1

I'll let you know if the final apparatus works ok !
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:28 AM   #62
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Chris, the cathode of the diode (marked with a minus sign in my diagram) is always marked with a line around the body of the diode, so you can't go wrong:



Furthermore, I can assure you a 100% that the diagram is OK, as mine works great, and has been tested extensively by now. So yours should also be working, I hope you will be pleased with it, succes ! And do indeed let us know how it ends !
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:22 AM   #63
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Default Discharger Parts Needed

Thank you Redbird300 for giving us a way to finally discharge our packs fast and safely.
I would please like to know what final parts and hopfully part numbers you use to build the the final unit?
I have already ordered the Cell Log 8 from HobbyKing.
I havent done this since high school electronics, and I am very rusty.
I would like to purchase these items online if possible.
The basic stuff I can handle, its the diod,relay, the led, and maybe the risistors.
Im not sure what to buy to complete the project.
And could you please give me info on solid state as well as the relay you used?
I use 4s and 6s lipos if this helps, and need 6amps to dicharge my lipos at 2c.

Thank you very much
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:37 PM   #64
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Default Relay

I have found most of the parts for the Discharger, the only real problem is locating the heavy duty relay 30vdc 25a/ 30a/230vac or equivalent.
Could someone please help me locate a retailer online that sell the relay for the6S Discharger, and please include a part #
And hopefully at a good price.

Thank you
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:49 AM   #65
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You call those resistors ? THIS IS a resistor !



I've recently been thinking of doing something like this, but alittle more advanced. Frankly I will never likely get to it as I really don't want to engineer anything once I leave the office. But maybe I can inspire you to do the work for me I want to use something like these Allegro sensors. Combine them with a PIC or AVR would let you program the discharge current and the mah the relay would trigger. I still haven't figured out the best way to create a large enough CCS to act as the programmable load.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:59 AM   #66
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Wow that would suck the life out of my 6s 3000ma packs.
Im using a pair of 2ohm 200 watt guys in series on a massive heat sink for an almost perfect 2c discharge rate.

Maybe in your spare time you can put together something cool with the Allegro sensors. Im working on a 4s version myself. hopefuly just a switch over to an 18v relay. looking at the t92s7d22-18

By the way got the perfect Power relay from Zoro Tools for the 6s.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:08 AM   #67
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I've been trying to think of a way to have a programmable current drain but I cant think of a way to do it cheap. I think the best way is to have a resistor bank, you just switch in and out resistors to change the load current.
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:31 AM   #68
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Automotive halogen headlight bulbs are a good load to discharge most common Lipos, directly for 3S and 2 in series for 5-6S.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:06 PM   #69
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Im thinking of building this system, but instead of resistors and the fear of excessive heat I'm going to use a 24V kettle! Then after the discharge cycles are complete i can have a nice cup of tea!!!
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #70
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Your kettle is a resistor.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:35 PM   #71
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I know, but without the issue of excess heat and trying to cool heat sinks etc....
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:40 PM   #72
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Just make sure you keep it filled with water or that heat will become a serious problem.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:06 AM   #73
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Default My 480W discharger build

Can't take all the credit - main inspiration came from tjinguy's site

It's a design based on 20W halogen lamps. I got 60 of them for under $10.


However that design didn't quite sit well with me - the fact that ALL bulbs are in parallel configuration.

With his design, if running 24V through ALL bulbs, then if one bulb fails in one of the rows, then bulbs in that row, being paralleled, would run at more than 12V, while the other row runs at less than 12V. As you can imagine, this could lead to cascading failures, since the row that loses a bulb would run hotter, which would then cause it to lose more bulbs, and then run hotter still... until all bulbs in a row are gone.

The only design change I made was to remove the paralleling of the 12V row.

This does not mean that it can only be run in 24V - it can be run at all voltages from 0-24V. However, you'll need to find out the current it draws at different voltages since the bulb resistance increases with heat, so running at 6V does not mean it'll draw a quarter of the max current. Most likely, it'll draw more.

In any case, I designed it to be used with a charger like Junsi's iCharger series, that have a Motor Drv and Foam Cutter modes. I use 24 of those bulbs in my build, encased in an old PSU aluminium case with a nice big server fan. At max, the max temp on the case furthest from the fan stabilises at 70degC. I've run this for 20 mins in 25degC ambient, no problems.

With these modes, you set the upper limits for BOTH Voltage and Current, so discharges will always be controlled (no spikes). The other advantage is that your bulbs last longer, since the discharge voltage slowly ramps up.

Lipo's (as many as you like) are connected through a parallel board as input to the iCharger itself. All you have to do is set a low input voltage limit and the iCharger automatically and gradually reduces power drawn the closer it gets to that limit - quite cool. But, can be annoying, since if you set it to 3.85V per cell (so 7.7V for 2S or 23.1V for 6S), then you might find that it start slowing down at around 3.95V/cell!!

This slowdown is good if you're not closely monitoring the discharge since it'll cut off with a slow discharge to 3.85V. But, if you are monitoring, then set it to something like 3.7V/cell. That way it won't start slowing down till about 3.8V/cell.

My 208B is maxxed out at 350W, which is only about 20.5V and about 17.1A in the foam cut mode. But with a 1000W 30A iCharger (30## series), you can max this out to 24V 20A for 480W drive. With about 90% efficiency, this might translate to a 530W discharge at input!!

Connect something like a Quanum, and you can monitor discharge while watching TV. When it hits 3.82V or 3.83V per cell, just stroll over to your iCharger and hit STOP.

Here are the pics of the final build. I'll post schematics later.

The other design change was to PCB layout, done in such a way that the bulbs are easily mounted sideways, so that airflow is improved.









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Old 01-25-2012, 11:16 AM   #74
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Default My 480W discharger build - schematics

There are three switches, implemented on the Common line - using 3.5mm bullets if I recall correctly. You can connect them in several combinations to achieve the configuration you want. For me, this is now redundant, since I'm happy to just use the iCharger instead to control the voltage and current precisely, so I keep all switches closed, using all bulbs. Using all bulbs means that they should all last a little longer, in theory, since I'm not pushing them to their max rated 12V each.




Options for various modes of operation.




For those who etch their own PCB - below is the printable version for your laser printer. Text is reversed on purpose.

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Old 01-25-2012, 01:38 PM   #75
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I'm a little confused on how you have your icharger connected and set up. Can you explain a little further please?
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:15 PM   #76
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The regenerative discharge function
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:02 PM   #77
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I'm not using the regenerative discharge function.

All I do is use the Lipos as the power supply for the iCharger, and the discharger connected like how you would normally connect lipos to charge.

So as I run the Foam Cut (you can also use Motor Drv, but in the 208B, Motor Drv is limited to 15V max), the iCharger thinks it is driving a foam cutter, but instead it is driving the discharger.

And it is drawing the power from my Lipos connected to it's input to drive the discharger.

Hence the warning - if the readout shows 350W power, you might be pulling 390W from the lipos, given an average of 90% efficiency.
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:10 PM   #78
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oops double post
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:45 PM   #79
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Finished building mine today with the option of a 24v 200w bulb or a 24v 100w bulb. But to be honest i think i'm going to go with the kettle option, i cannot see!!!!!
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:42 PM   #80
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Default The Finished 6s Charger

Without getting blinded, and completely stand alone per thread start, and minimal heat.
This sucker works perfect.
Also made 3s - 5s hop ups.
Please don't ask for directions just follow beginning of post, and my pics.
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