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Old 11-19-2013, 04:05 AM   #321
Bladecpnitro
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Trim the tail in Rate Mode
If you can accidentally take off in rate mode its a good idea to setup up in rate mode. I took off with my Trex 550 the other day in rate mode unknowing. Fortunately I had set rate mode up pretty close with just a slight nose left drift. If I had never set the tail up in rate mode at all it could have gotten ugly.
Of course I could set both sides of the gyro switch to HH mode.


Rudder ATV's

No one ever seems to mention flying the tail with the ATV's set beyond the scope of the gyros control.

I tried 150 the other day and liked it. Thats where I always set my ATV's on tail using enough expo to give it that user friendly feel. Someone told me later to be careful setting rudder ATV's past 100 with the Beastx because it doesn't control piro rate past a certain ATV setting. So I backed it off until the light stayed on but now the tail is a little slower than I like.

Whats the problem with having ATV's set to 150? The BeastX rudder light was going out at somewhere around 98% throw on the rudder. That still gives plenty of area for the gyro to control piro rate. I might fly for weeks or months and not use 98% rudder.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:41 AM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro View Post
Trim the tail in Rate Mode
If you can accidentally take off in rate mode its a good idea to setup up in rate mode. I took off with my Trex 550 the other day in rate mode unknowing. Fortunately I had set rate mode up pretty close with just a slight nose left drift. If I had never set the tail up in rate mode at all it could have gotten ugly.................
Might I suggest IMHO one should always set up the tail in rate mode to hover without drift either side. This way the tail is neutral. When then switching to HH the gyro only has to compensate for external inputs and not try and correct for drift caused by the tail blades driving the tail one way or the other. I have always found a heli which tends to have a tail wag which cannot be dialed out by adjusting gain nearly always have a drift in rate mode. Correct this drift and the wag goes.
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:20 AM   #323
sprat0864
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Default ATV over 100 ?

Hi, in the set up it says to not set ATV over 100 until after you have finished tuning the tail. Question is if your tail reaches full deflection at 100% what benefit would ATV's at 110% be. I'm thinking that the tail cant go any further than full travel.. Probably a very simple answer but I just cant figure it out.. Any thoughts ??? Cheers from Down under
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:15 AM   #324
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Just because the tail can go to 100% it doesn't mean it does in most conditions. It goes as far as is necessary to deliver the rate you request by your stick position. When you try it on the bench, invariably you see it go to 100%, regardless of rate set, but this is because the sensors detect no rotation and so the control loops calculate that they need to increase the thow until they do. On the bench they never detect rotation so they end up at full throw. This can occur in flight too, in extreme conditions, fast backwards flight at an angle, strong wind, etc, but it still might only routinely be using say 75% travel for the normal delivered rates when all things are equal at full stick.

Increasing the travel tells the MB that you want it to go faster, so it uses more of the full throw to begin with, and has less overhead available for accurate speed control. At some point, quite early, you reach a point where the MB no longer has any ovehead, and all the rate is delivered direct to the blades. At this point the MB cannot control your rotation rates, and the device enters freewheel mode, also known as blur piro mode, amongst other names. This transition point occurs around 105%, and is denoted by a change in the light on the MB, which will first flash, as you apply full rudder, and then if the travel adjust is even higher, it will go out as you apply full rudder.

See page 66 of the full V3 MB manual.

Cheers

Sutty
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Old 01-25-2014, 05:30 PM   #325
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Thanks for the explaination. Makes a bit more sense now.. Is a bit beyond me, cant even get my gyro gain worked out yet and stil looking for a basic gyro guide.. Will keep looking.. Cheers from down under :-)
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:56 AM   #326
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:04 AM   #327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watdazit View Post
Might I suggest IMHO one should always set up the tail in rate mode to hover without drift either side. This way the tail is neutral. When then switching to HH the gyro only has to compensate for external inputs and not try and correct for drift caused by the tail blades driving the tail one way or the other. I have always found a heli which tends to have a tail wag which cannot be dialed out by adjusting gain nearly always have a drift in rate mode. Correct this drift and the wag goes.
I have a question about this rate mode adjustment. What flight mode should we use to perform this rate-mode adjustment during hover: Normal, IU1 or IU2 ?
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:22 AM   #328
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Default BeastX V3 Tuning Guide Updated

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Originally Posted by lcc014 View Post
I have a question about this rate mode adjustment. What flight mode should we use to perform this rate-mode adjustment during hover: Normal, IU1 or IU2 ?

My guess would be the flight mode you plan to fly in. These instructions here say to set your common gain first then adjust tale in rate mode. It only makes sense that you'll be using the same head speed.
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:47 PM   #329
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Originally Posted by Way2evl View Post
My guess would be the flight mode you plan to fly in. These instructions here say to set your common gain first then adjust tale in rate mode. It only makes sense that you'll be using the same head speed.
Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 03-01-2014, 01:11 PM   #330
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Hi,

Great reading. Thanks for all the time and effort everyone. I have a Trex 450 Pro I was originally going to put a ZYX-S in and most guys in that thread stated you should use the inner mounting holes on the DS4 cyclic servo arms. This puts the links at a bit of an angle. I purchased a MB instead. Should I move the balls to the outer, stock holes to get the links vertical at zero pitch? I'm still trying to understand the relationship between arm length and gain. It seems different FBL's like different things.

How far out from cyclic servo center are you folks mounting the balls on a 450 Pro ?? Using Align 430M servos, DS4 arms.

Bill S.
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Old 03-28-2014, 07:41 PM   #331
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Hello guy's. I bought beastx BTXA76008 gyro tape. It came with two yellow and two 3m tape. I mount to my heli just with two 3m tape. Is that ok? I'm confuse. I'm running on Thunder Tiger x50 nitro helicopter.
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Old 03-29-2014, 03:12 AM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VelocityRC View Post
Hi,

Great reading. Thanks for all the time and effort everyone. I have a Trex 450 Pro I was originally going to put a ZYX-S in and most guys in that thread stated you should use the inner mounting holes on the DS4 cyclic servo arms. This puts the links at a bit of an angle. I purchased a MB instead. Should I move the balls to the outer, stock holes to get the links vertical at zero pitch? I'm still trying to understand the relationship between arm length and gain. It seems different FBL's like different things.

How far out from cyclic servo center are you folks mounting the balls on a 450 Pro ?? Using Align 430M servos, DS4 arms.

Bill S.
Mine last time was at 2nd hole from arm's end
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:57 AM   #333
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Default BeastX V3 Tuning Guide Updated

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Originally Posted by rcjames View Post
Hello guy's. I bought beastx BTXA76008 gyro tape. It came with two yellow and two 3m tape. I mount to my heli just with two 3m tape. Is that ok? I'm confuse. I'm running on Thunder Tiger x50 nitro helicopter.

3M tape is great. You want to use the one with the red backing. 3M outdoor. You'll be fine :-).
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