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Old 04-07-2011, 03:04 PM   #1
Blade120
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Default Pitch curve on tx

Hey fellas , I am using a dx7 and recently setup my pitch curve for normal and idle upafter a crash. I made sure to have -9 0 +11 on idle up and -5 4 +10 on normal. The bird flies great on either. What I was wondering how was if it matters what the curve looks like it on the radio, my curve is a flattened out on the radio button on the helly the numbers look great, and it flies pretty well. Thanks again in advance.

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Old 04-07-2011, 04:18 PM   #2
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Yes it matters how the curve looks on your radio. I am not sure I understand what you are saying. So, what it should look like in IU is a straight line from left to right that goes from the lower left hand corner to the upper right hand corner.....a diagonal line. In normal you would have a line that starts at just below 50%, hit 50% on # 3 and then go up to the right to 100......or a slight variation of that. So the numbers on the radio would be in IU 1=0, 2=inh 3=50 4=inh 5=100. In normal you would have 40ish in 1, 45ish in 2, 50 in 3, 75 or inh in 4 and 100 in 5. Some might set pitch with a flat line at some point to not over pitch. But most have a linear line. It is posible you are looking at a throttle curve instead of pitch.
Lastly, over all pitch can be set in the swash menu of a DX7. If you go into swash mix, you will see ptch, elv and ail. These #'s have a plus or minus by them. The + or - means which direction they are going in.....so if your swash was moving in the wrong direction and it was say a +50, you would change it to a -50. Also, if you want to add more or less pitch, you would change the # by pitch. If it was say at +50 and that equated to 11 degrees pitch. you would bump the 50 up to say 55 and check to see where you are at. Keep in mind a SR is very sensitive to pitch....becasue it causes torque. Too much torque and the gyro can not control it and your tail will blow out........J
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:31 PM   #3
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It's sounds like the swash mix for pitch is too high. I tried having it set at 100% before and that made my pitch curve almost horizontal. I now have it set to 40% and my pitch curve is actually diagonal, as it should be for more pitch resolution.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:54 PM   #4
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Ok finally got home and got my radio out thanks for the reply fellas heres what i have on my TX, ok normal mode; L 15% 1 INH 2 31% 3 36% H 42% now checking the heli with the motors unpluged gives me -5 pitch on L , +4 at midstick and +10 at H while in normal mode, the heli flies great but the curve looks weird on my tx. while on ST! its; 5% on L, 10% on 1, 20.5% on 2, 36% on 3 and 42% on high, the heli looks like -9 L 0 at midstick and +11 at high. in the swash mix i have the Pitch at +75%. Again the heli flies pretty well like this but i know its not set up right. If i put the curve at L0 , 2 inh , 3 50, 4 inh and 5 100, in st1 like you suggested John I get all kinds of binding. Do i have to drop the mix down so my line can look a little closer to 0 to 100%? Thanks again for the great info guys
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:14 PM   #5
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We are talking about 2 different things. Pitch curves are different than swash pitch. Pitch curves tell the servos where they should be in relation to the stick. Swash pitch sets the overall travel. So if you have too much pitch, you reduce your swash mix. Look at some of the setup video's on the DX 7 or on the SR bible. My settings will not help you all that much because I am running a high performance set up. If you are new, you would want you over all pitch to be 10-11. In normal mode you want to start around 40-43 at low, 50 at mid and 100 at high. What this means at the high setting of 100, you are getting 100% of the setting in the swash mix. In idle up, every one runs a linear curve going from 0 to 100. You don't want any binding at the extreme stick positions. You always want to start any pitch or other setups, with a basic ground up set up. ie, pitch set at 50%, servo arms at 90 to the main shaft ect. Unless you start with the basics, it will ever be right. The good news with a DX 7 is that you can set it up to be exact using the sub trims. It will take you a while and a few video's to understand how it works, but take your time and do it right......the heli will fly much better.....Keep in mind each of the throttle positions can be used to adjust trim. So be carefull when using trim. You can set trim in normal mode, flip into idle up and need to set the trim in IU too.......J
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:22 PM   #6
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I just looked at my swash mix.....keep in mind I am using a micro heli swash, futaba 401 gyro and high performance motors. My pit is 35, ail 75 and elv 95. You need to start with the basic set up and then adjust and fly. I was not married to any # in the mix. Rather I would get it close do a test flight and then readjust until I got the flight performance I wanted.......J
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:23 PM   #7
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The swash mix for the pitch needs to be somewhere around 40-50% for the SR. Anything higher and you're sacrificing pitch resolution, IMO.
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:50 PM   #8
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I've been tinkering with the settings dropped the pitch mix to 35% still have way to much + pitch at high the servos bind, if i keep the curve 0 to 100%. Have lots to learn going to take a second and third look at those videos thanks again for the wealth of information,
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:55 PM   #9
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It shouldn't be that low. You need to adjust your swash links so that the plate is centered when the servo arms are 90 degrees to the main shaft and your pitch is at 50. It takes a while to do it, but once you get it, you should be able to run 70 pitch mix easy. The SR can do +- 12 if you're careful setting it up.
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:23 PM   #10
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I've got a 75 mix on aile and elev but can't go any higher than about 43 for pitch while still going to 100 on the pitch curve cuz the servos start buzzing and the swash starts flexing. I'm getting+/-11 I think, can't remember but this is all stock with DX6i. I don't know how many times I've tried to get the swash right in the middle, but I've always come up with about +1 at mid cuz either the servo links are almost coming apart or the pitch links won't go any shorter. Would love to know how to get a bit more cyclic throw and perhaps a bit more overall pitch without having to get aluminum swash... but if that's the only way.
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:29 PM   #11
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You're right... I was only getting 30-70 on the curve when I have the SR... god it's been a long time...

You can't get more throw without the swash, but you can just run higher HS.
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:37 PM   #12
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Ahhh... so I should try that 11t pinion I got sitting around huh? I might give that a go, but this thing flips like a lazy snail... I mean really. I know different paddles will help, but how much? Temped to cut the paddles in half or something or trim a half inch off the end of 'em just to see if it helps lol! Just seems like not enough cyclic throw, I think I've got 6 degrees? That's not tons, but still, shouldn't take THAT long to flip but seems right now that loops are just a crash waiting to happen unless I start tossing all sorts of negative in at the top. I never thought of higher head speed, will that help?
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:48 PM   #13
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Definitely give the 11t a try... I've been using it for the last 6 months and I'll never go back. It's a night and day difference, even if you're only sport flying.

I believe the other way to get more cyclic would be to flip the mixer arm around and recalibrate things with the new position. I have only tried this with the e-flite cnc grips/mixers, but it definitely made cyclic inputs more responsive. I believe it has to do with the fixed length linkage facing more vertically and the flybar being closer to the spinning blade disc.
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:51 PM   #14
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Yea, headspeed would do the trick. The only problem is you can only lay so much smack on the SR before the gyro calls it quits.
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanM View Post
Definitely give the 11t a try... I've been using it for the last 6 months and I'll never go back. It's a night and day difference, even if you're only sport flying.

I believe the other way to get more cyclic would be to flip the mixer arm around and recalibrate things with the new position. I have only tried this with the e-flite cnc grips/mixers, but it definitely made cyclic inputs more responsive. I believe it has to do with the fixed length linkage facing more vertically and the flybar being closer to the spinning blade disc.
Cool, I'm gonna go slap that pinion on now and give it a whirl tomorrow! I've flipped mixer arms before, and considered it again but I don't have the cnc ones and the plastic ones hit the flybar oval links that go around the grips. So I'm gonna run it stock. If I end up keeping this bird, I may put the cnc grips and mixers on just for that benefit along with an aluminum center hub, but that's about it, that's already going too far with this thing. I already have the aluminum flybar cage and rotor head but that's just because there wasn't a plastic one in stock at the time I needed it! Lol!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchbox View Post
Yea, headspeed would do the trick. The only problem is you can only lay so much smack on the SR before the gyro calls it quits.
Amen bro!! If I had a nickel for every time I nearly crapped myself because the tail decided to dump out during a flip, loop or roll I'd be rich! I really think the gyro would do "ok" if it weren't for the doggy frickin' tail motor. I honestly think the motor can't pick up or lose speed quick enough for rapid rudder corrections. I was experimenting trying to get some practice with stationary piros (using the SR for practice now, doing it on the 500 after should be a snap ) and found a couple times that if you jam on the rudder, you get the response fairly quick, but when it stops... eventually, it's usually at least 90 degrees from where you wanted it to stop if not more! I really think the weak link is the motor more than the gyro, but I'm not excusing the gyro either, it's no prize winner. Put them together and... well... thank goodness we can vent about the same thing over and over in these forums right?!?

Thanks for the tips guys!! I should have thought of this crap myself...
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:58 AM   #16
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Wow took me about 4 hours to finally figure it out have a pretty good looking pitch curve now with around -11 +1 +11 the best I could come up with after all that time, thanks again for the great info.
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:07 AM   #17
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I forgot to mention that one of the reasons my pit is at 35 is that I am using hitec 65 mg servo's which have a longer travel. I set my pitch not by #, but just below where the tail will not hold. When I had stock servo's, I was not able to get any where close to 70 on pitch. It would bottom out way before that.......J
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:03 AM   #18
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Ok, so I forgot to mention 2 things. The 2nd one is this. If you are using a stock plastic swash make sure your pitch mix is not over driving the arms. The swash arms that connect to the servo arms are plastic and flex. The swash can bottom out against the hub and the servo's will still have travel, but they are just flexing the swash arms. So take a look when you get the mix you want that you are not bottoming out on the hub and that you servo's are not flexing the swash arms.....which could cause a seperation.....J
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