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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 04-21-2011, 08:26 PM   #1
rebeltrousers
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Default Align 2-in-1: what's normal?

Hey everyone, and yes I've already searched all over the place!

Just wondering what is "normal" for a 2-in-1?

I wiggle the switch on my 2-in-1 as part of my pre-flight check. Occasionally I'll see one of the green LED's (the ones indicating voltage) go out or come back on. This is always after a flight or two (or few), and never on a full battery.

I never see the orange or red LED's flicker or go out, and the heli never loses power.

What does your 2-in-1 do? What is normal?

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:05 PM   #2
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This most likely means that the voltage level is between the two steps, eventually the top green will extinguish completely. Providing I understood correctly what you are writing.
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Old 04-22-2011, 12:52 AM   #3
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If you mean one light go's out if you wiggle the switch,then it's going bad ..Do the mod talked about in this thread http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....light=2in1+fix .You won't have any issue's after doing the switch mod.Even if the switch is OK,I would do the mod anyway's just to be on the safe side..
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pril250 View Post
This most likely means that the voltage level is between the two steps, eventually the top green will extinguish completely. Providing I understood correctly what you are writing.
Yeah that's what's happening because it's always on a used battery and the heli never loses power!
Thanks
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnTheDeck View Post
If you mean one light go's out if you wiggle the switch,then it's going bad ..Do the mod talked about in this thread http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....light=2in1+fix .You won't have any issue's after doing the switch mod.Even if the switch is OK,I would do the mod anyway's just to be on the safe side..
Hi, I've come across your findings a few times (not only on this site too)
So if I'm worried I should just solder to join where the switch is?
You also recommend a certain type of grease. Is the grease a conductor or insulator?

Thanks
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:51 AM   #6
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dielectric grease is a silicone grease, safe for plastic, commonly used as an anti-corrosive barrier for electrical connections. It is non condunctive and available at any auto parts store. It is also, but I'm not 100% sure, the same thing as Align one way bearing grease.

The 2 in 1 is notorious for going out and this switch is the culprit 90% of the time. Other factors are the electrical connection between the remote and main unit and just plain going bad.

The factors that affect the switch are---
-its location (where it can get fuel in it),
-its location and mounting (mounted to the side of the frame by the motor is convenient, but you've got a mechanical micro switch mounted to a high frequency vibrator)
-the fact that its a micro switch.

Do the mod, get a better switch or live with the inconvenience of plug and unplug, or find another power solution.

I'm gonna get a life pack, a micro regulator for the tail, and a pushglo, and then I'm gonna ditch the 2 in 1.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:10 AM   #7
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Mine started doing this a couple of months ago, I did the switch mode (Took out the old switch and added a new external switch.) It's working great now.

Don't fly it like it is, do the mode or replace the 2 in 1 with something different.

Craig
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:32 AM   #8
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I did the mod that everyone seems to be talking about back when I had my 2in1.

http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli/ARCHIVE_2_IN_ONE.html

Mine eventually developed a rattle though. I took it apart and all three resistors attached to the main board of the regulator had fallen off. I had had enough of nursing such an important component, so I ditched it. Now I have a Fromeco Arizona, Remote glow, and this wonderful little device.

http://www.western-robotics.com/sentinel_lipo_hp.html

I have this mounted right above my fuel tank, and it works every bit as well at the 2in1's LED's in my opinion.
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Old 04-22-2011, 01:36 PM   #9
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Definitely do the mod. I am on my second regulator, as the wires frayed on my first shorting on the cf frame. The first did the flicker, as did the second. It is a very good regulator, but the switch suck$ A$$. If you take care of the switch, it should be good as gold.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:51 PM   #10
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Well this morning I went for a fly. Full battery as usual.
On pre-flight switch wiggle all lights stayed solid.

Halfway through the flight I brought the heli in to check the engine temperature. Just before it landed there was only 1 green LED showing and after the blades had stopped there was only the orange and red LED's still showing.

I powered the heli off and then turned it back on again and all LED's were on indicating a full charge. When I wiggled the switch two of the green LED's flickered.

Should I:
A) buy another 2-in-1
B) fix it by removing the switch, soldering the connection to "always on" and just use the battery to turn it on/off
C) Remove the switch and wire another one in somewhere else
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:05 AM   #11
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Put another switch on it ..
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:01 AM   #12
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To fix the problem, switch is just for convenience right?
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:22 AM   #13
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Do the switch mod, or buy a different regulator.. I got rid of mine and put in an Foremco Arizona.. It's been bulletproof and the switch has fail safe on..

I wouldn't buy another one and expect a different end result though..
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:51 AM   #14
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B, and maybe add a super rocker, or the equivilent in between the 2 in 1 and the battery.

Or, you can use the solution I mentioned earlier. Life batteryies charge quicker than most RX lipos, and you don't have to worry about leaving the pack fully charged or a regulator failure. If you want the onboard glow, there are other solutions

Do not fly this again without doing something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geardaddy View Post
I wouldn't buy another one and expect a different end result though..
Ditto
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