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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 07-25-2011, 06:01 PM   #1
jcflyer
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Default Tail Control Rod Guide

What would cause the front guide to break? I have broken three of them and don't know why, it seems that they are breaking when I land the heli.

Jay
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:51 PM   #2
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there's been threads about this, usually blamed on vibes
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by skered53 View Post
there's been threads about this, usually blamed on vibes
Vibes caused by what?

jay
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:36 PM   #4
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A vary fast oscillation causes vibes.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:01 PM   #5
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After breaking several of the stock guides I started using these and so far so good. They will hold up on those big punch outs of the 500. That's why I was breaking so many of them.

WyDiablo


http://helidirect.com/microheli-tail...500-p-7769.hdx
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:02 PM   #6
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I had the guides break too and made a CF rod that has survived several crashes, does not need guides, and has no vibrations.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:14 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by WyDiablo View Post
After breaking several of the stock guides I started using these and so far so good. They will hold up on those big punch outs of the 500. That's why I was breaking so many of them.

WyDiablo


http://helidirect.com/microheli-tail...500-p-7769.hdx
Thanks my friend I have already ordered these.

Jay
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:15 PM   #8
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I had the guides break too and made a CF rod that has survived several crashes, does not need guides, and has no vibrations.
Exactly what material did you use and where did you get it from???

Jay
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:24 PM   #9
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There is a thread here some where about making them. What I did was use a scrap piece of CF rod that had an ID close to that of the stock rod. I checked the length of the stock rod and cut the CF so that the threads from the stock rod would stick out the same amount. I then cut the stock rod about an inch in from the threads and dremmeled some small notches in the rod. I used 5 min epoxy and just glued them in the ends, making sure they were straight. The notches in the rod help provide grip so they don't pull out. Easy, quick, strong and light.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:37 PM   #10
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listen jay next time when u r with the heli??hover for a few minutes then bring it down and grab the tail boom by the tail rotor i'll bet its super hot!!! why????? beats me ...thats y i changed to torque tube... i think that belt has to be just right.for those guides not to break...
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craymanus View Post
listen jay next time when u r with the heli??hover for a few minutes then bring it down and grab the tail boom by the tail rotor i'll bet its super hot!!! why????? beats me ...thats y i changed to torque tube... i think that belt has to be just right.for those guides not to break...
Heat means friction. Tail case bearings.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:00 AM   #12
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Default no more tail rod guides....

this is what i wound up using to solve the issue... quick uk 600/700 rod ends with 3/16" carbon rod inside 7/32 aluminum tubing...i have a 4 bladed tail rotor with raptor 30/50 blades on one end and a full size ds-650 on the other...no rod guides..and no flex either....you could push a small truck with it...weighs 19 grams...but its also 110mm longer than stock, so a stock length should weigh 16 grams or so, only 4 grams more than a stock rod and 2 metal rod guides.
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:52 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helihaven View Post
this is what i wound up using to solve the issue... quick uk 600/700 rod ends with 3/16" carbon rod inside 7/32 aluminum tubing...i have a 4 bladed tail rotor with raptor 30/50 blades on one end and a full size ds-650 on the other...no rod guides..and no flex either....you could push a small truck with it...weighs 19 grams...but its also 110mm longer than stock, so a stock length should weigh 16 grams or so, only 4 grams more than a stock rod and 2 metal rod guides.
I like the idea but the weight!!! The tail is already heavier than I like. I found a couple different things to try first.

Jay
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craymanus View Post
listen jay next time when u r with the heli??hover for a few minutes then bring it down and grab the tail boom by the tail rotor i'll bet its super hot!!! why????? beats me ...thats y i changed to torque tube... i think that belt has to be just right.for those guides not to break...
You know it's funny that you mention that, the other day I thought it felt a little warm.

Jay
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by flerpie View Post
Heat means friction. Tail case bearings.
Could the belt be too tight??? as apposed to the bearings???

Jay
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcflyer View Post
Could the belt be too tight??? as apposed to the bearings???

Jay
Well, yes. Too tight pulling on the bearings might cause enuff friction in the
bearings to make heat.

The boom gets hot at the tail end because the tail is attached to the boom.
I bet the tail case is hotter than the boom which means the heat is being
generated in the tail case. Use your sense of touch to find out where the
heat is coming from.

What is in the tail case that moves and can cause friction?
Bearings and tailshaft are what move.
Or doesn't move in the case of a seized up tail case bearing.
I bet if you replace both bearings the heat problem will go away.
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helihaven View Post
this is what i wound up using to solve the issue... quick uk 600/700 rod ends with 3/16" carbon rod inside 7/32 aluminum tubing...i have a 4 bladed tail rotor with raptor 30/50 blades on one end and a full size ds-650 on the other...no rod guides..and no flex either....you could push a small truck with it...weighs 19 grams...but its also 110mm longer than stock, so a stock length should weigh 16 grams or so, only 4 grams more than a stock rod and 2 metal rod guides.
That looks very nice HH. I might need the weight to offset a bigger lipo too.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:29 PM   #18
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Buy these ends:

http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-242BK-Q...k_p_37346.html

Buy this rod and cut down to the right size and you're done.

http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-241-Qui...d_p_36428.html

Works great, lighter than stock, and not rod guide required.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horigan View Post
Buy these ends:

http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-242BK-Q...k_p_37346.html

Buy this rod and cut down to the right size and you're done.

http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-241-Qui...d_p_36428.html

Works great, lighter than stock, and not rod guide required.
I think i'm going to order these, I hate the stock pushrod on my new 500 ESP build. It really bothers me, this seems to be exactly what I need. Thanks.
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Old 07-29-2011, 06:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horigan View Post
Buy these ends:

http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-242BK-Q...k_p_37346.html

Buy this rod and cut down to the right size and you're done.

http://www.readyheli.com/TXT-241-Qui...d_p_36428.html

Works great, lighter than stock, and not rod guide required.
So is the CF rod hollow and you cut the threaded ends from the metal rod and epoxy them into the CF rod? Or, is it solid and you epoxy the ends onto the rod, once cut to length of course.
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