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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 08-01-2011, 01:09 AM   #1
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Default MIP Thorp 0.9 mm Hex Driver, +1 -- Expensive and Worth It

I love my new MIP Thorp 0.9 mm hex driver! That hard, machined tool steel fits in those little tiny heads just perfectly and refuses to convert six facets into a circle. What a relief.

A buddy was surprised that I shelled out $14 for it, but I had to order one after seeing it recommended here so many times, and after my two crap (Align, Wiha) drivers kept stripping heads it was worth it. Really, it's the only way to work with those tiny little .9s without going crazy.

Just had to share...
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:20 AM   #2
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I was so impressed with my .9 that I bought a 1.3 and a 1.5 and threw the majority of the rest of my hex drivers away. On a performance:cost ratio, they are the cheapest tool I own.
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:25 PM   #3
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Getting mine this week. And metal tail holder.

edit: Actually im getting the 1.3, but is the 0.9 the small allen key or the old screws that have been replaced by 1.3?
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:31 PM   #4
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Any good tricks to remove the stripped screws? Im about to r48 it to some grinded old allen key.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:13 PM   #5
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I have never seen an Easy Out (screw extractor) this small. I'd love to have one though!
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfh666 View Post
Getting mine this week. And metal tail holder.

edit: Actually im getting the 1.3, but is the 0.9 the small allen key or the old screws that have been replaced by 1.3?

The 0.9 is the one for the tiny Allen heads, like on the tail rotor hub.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:05 AM   #7
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that one that came with my copterx kit is really good, i was surprised. I had a different .09 driver that couldn't take anything out, the copterx has yet to strip after 10 uses.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Any good tricks to remove the stripped screws? Im about to r48 it to some grinded old allen key.
You can use a Dremel with a cutting wheel and etch a line across the head thus removing it with a slotted driver. Very easy and works great

Harbor, im going to order a MIP on my next round of spares, seems everyone loves them
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:31 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viet-Lama View Post
You can use a Dremel with a cutting wheel and etch a line across the head thus removing it with a slotted driver. Very easy and works great

Harbor, im going to order a MIP on my next round of spares, seems everyone loves them
Ya that was plan B. Im so very scared to touch the frame and not sure if i have something thin enough to get it done. I was able to get one of them out, ill try it out it that screw first.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:16 PM   #10
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How about these tiny extractors? They're manufactured by Grobet in Switzerland and available through Amazon.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfh666 View Post
Any good tricks to remove the stripped screws? Im about to r48 it to some grinded old allen key.
I am assuming the stripped one is a cap screw. So what I did is using a file/grinder to make a straight line grinding at the cap, then using a flat-head screw driver to unscrew.

Make sure you heat up the screw to loosen the locktite if any before you use the flat-head screw driver.

Here's an illustration. If you see it from top, just grind those gray area.
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Last edited by daddoo; 08-05-2011 at 02:58 AM..
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:47 PM   #12
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After using the WONDERFUL Align 1.3mm (heh), I bought a few MIPs drivers and threw the align tools away.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Any good tricks to remove the stripped screws? Im about to r48 it to some grinded old allen key.
Just want to answer my own question.

Wait until you get the MIP (1.3mm in my case) and try them again. Since i didnt strip them bad, just couldn't screw/unscrew, i was able to unscrew them all with the MIP. Best most awesome greatness tool.

On a side note, some say to be careful not to strip them and all. Ive striped some unscrewing them thru loctite. When i got the MIP, it was a pretty tight fit on those that i had already striped and all the sudden they just unscrew as if nothing. So that tells me there the align tool is bad.

On top of that, those that i screwed/unscrewed often with out striping, turned out to be almost too tight for the MIP, kinda hard to get it in the screw head. So that also tells me that the screws are also bad, some are just closer to 1.3mm then others.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfh666 View Post
Any good tricks to remove the stripped screws? Im about to r48 it to some grinded old allen key.
All my rounded out bolts came out with the MIP drivers.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:53 PM   #15
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I had the 0.9 already but was waiting on the 1.3 for a few weeks. I did my 250 build with the Align one and I had a couple of rounded heads on mine that the Align tool would just spin around in... some of them if I put the driver at an angle it would catch a lip, others no-go.

As soon as I got my MIP 1.3 I went straight to the suspect screws... I guess I forgot to tell the MIP one that there were issues with those ones because it just worked... no mess, no tricks... it just worked

I now have a 0.9, 1.3, 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 and will never use anything else! (and a 1.27mm/0.5" just in case)

Whatever these tools cost... it's worth it! Dremmeling a slot will do it, but one slip can cost a heck of a lot more than $15.00
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inverse View Post
All my rounded out bolts came out with the MIP drivers.
Is it for sure the MIP thorp can take out the rounded bolts?

Today, while messing with my trex, I stripped the head of the jesus bolt and now the align screwdriver is turning loose

about 1-2 of my frame screws are also rounded.

am not sure what to do..invest in a set of MIP thorp or buy a cheap dremel tool?

thanks
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:45 AM   #17
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sorry didnt notice the last post..

ok, am bought..will go put an order for this 0.9mm MIP..

fingers crossed..hopefully i can get that damn screw out
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:26 AM   #18
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The MIP Thorp has precision machined sharp edges, and the metal is really hard, so if anything will get it out, it will. Then once you get the problem children sorted out, it prevents new rounding problems from happening. Like I said, best $14 hobby investment I ever made!
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:33 PM   #19
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thanks..i have put an order for one of those..

cheers
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:02 PM   #20
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Just another testimony to these drivers.
I have the .9, 1.3, and 1.5 of these and love them.
I bought a used 250 close to a year ago and the stock drivers that came with it were not able to turn some of the screws, so I figured I needed new ones and ordered the align ones with a brand new se tail. The new drivers were too loose even on the brand new tails hub bolt!
I ordered a .9 and 1.3 mip and no more problems, every screw that was stripped or shaky now were not a problem... So next time I ordered parts I added the 1.5 to the mix.

Mip are far and away the best drivers I have tried!
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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.

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