Anyone else had a broken clutch on a 3D+?

[belcom]

hmm, doesnt look good. hope mind doesn't do that. Outrage does offer a 50% crash replacement guarantee though. But I'm sure if it breaks like that without a crash they should replace it. Did you try to replace yours? What was happening with the engine when it broke off? Did it stall immediately?

[skunkworx]

Ok, well one post that's back on topic and hopefully yet another helpful tip:

I recently had my OWB give out on me and it needed to be replaced. Since it's an absolute ton of work to drop the motor itself, I decided to try this method out and boy! What a God-send!!! The worst part about all of it is trying to get the bottom main shaft bolt back in, otherwise it was an absolut breeze.

The one comment I wanted to leave was that *if* you should need to pull the whole start-shaft/clutch-bell assembly out for inspection or repair (like replacing the liner or bearings, etc...) you have to remove the clutch shoes themselves (just two screws). The bell will drop down just enough with the shoes out of the way that it will twist out kinda sideways and the rest will follow it out. The most critical step here is DON'T REINSTALL THE SHOES BEFORE YOU PUT THE START-SHAFT ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THE FRAME!!!!! It won't fit...trust me, I tried like mad to get it back in there and it's not gonna happen! Better to just keep an eye out before you start the rebuild process than to have to do it twice.

I know, I know; comical error and simple to reverse it, but if you've already gone through and torqued the darn screws down it 's just that much more work to go back and fix your bone-headed mistake. I'm really pleased with how easy it was overall and it seemed at first it might be less of a pain to just drop the whole motor, but i was wrong. It's a few screws and popping links, but it's simple, efficient, and actually kinda fun to do considering the fact that you don't have to dink around with re-sealing the pipe and doing all the prep work to put one on to begin with.