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600 Class Electric Helicopters 600 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 04-03-2014, 11:48 AM   #821
runesb
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With 10 pinion 115 main 530kv gives you
1842 HS at 90%
16** HS at 80%
14** HS at 70%
12** HS at 60%
** means i dont remember exact number here now.

And ratio stays above 10. With 10 pinion y should have a ratio at 11.5. Why: your motor and esc runns easyer the highe ratio you got.

I run my 800 at 1200hs and 1400 hs. But thats a another consept as well...
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Last edited by runesb; 04-03-2014 at 12:32 PM.. Reason: add info
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:07 PM   #822
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With the ultra light 600 heli under those huge 800 blades. You simply don't need the head speed high unless you are stick banging. Since I ended up running my favorite 115T Kde mod 1 gears in mine. I use the lowest Rhino pinion that fits which is a 10T. At 80% gov my HS was around 1600. Which I found perfect for just about everything myself. Most the fpv and camera guys run it down another 2 to 300 lower. I ran it up once a few times to 1900 and it was just insane. That same speed on my 800 stretched gob that is twice as heavy is still a great 3d heli.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:08 AM   #823
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Ok, makes sense. I ordered a 10 & 11t pinion to complete my set of MOD 1.0's. I'll put the 10t on when it comes in and try those RPM's.

I put my 600mm blades back on until the pinions get in. Even with these blades running at 2000 rpm, my esc and motor are getting too hot for my comfort. I have adjusted the timing and frequency to several suggestions without much luck. I can get the esc temps down to 130 but the bird has NO power and bogs on mild collective inputs with the 600mm blades. When I had the 810mm's on, the esc temp got up to 213 running 1600 rpm at 8 & 12 khz and "5" on the timing. I've checked the whole drivetrain and everything turns smoothly. All electrical connections are solid and bearings in the motor are good. Lipos are ambient temp when the bird comes down but the motor and esc are HOT! When I had my 810's on, I auto'd down from about 6 foot and touched down perfectly. A few seconds after she touched down and was spinning down, the bird flipped over like an extreme cyclic input was made. There wasn't any input from the transmitter at all. This broke both ball links on the dfc links and one swash ball link. This is the second time it has done this. One time with the 780mm's on which destroyed the gears in 2 servos, then this time which cracked one of the 810's near the root which makes me question even attempting to use it again. Both times I was watching it spin down and no inputs were given to cause it. I believe I'm going to ditch the dfc head and go back to the regular FBL head and parts. It seems to me anything more the 600mm blades is just too much for it using the DFC, I could be wrong. My main concern right now is these temps, I've looked throught the datalog and i'm pulling at the most 42A. I know the output wattage isn't 100% accurate on th CC datalogger but the highest reading I got was 1900. I'm confused at this point because I have my t500 swinging 470mm blades on 6s governed to 2600 and my Talon 90 and motor comes down at almost ambiant temp .
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:18 AM   #824
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The dfc head or regular fbl head should not matter. You just extend the dfc links or swash links. What brand of blades do y use ? Presume your mech setup is good.

Y use the timing and hz that is spec for motor i guess....
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:05 PM   #825
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Actually the align dfc head does make a difference running the larger blades with some fbl units. As the larger blades spool down or up, if the grips aren't perfectly identically clamped and the blades don't rotate evenly. They throw a serious off balance vibe into the heli as they rotate differently in the grips and are turning out of phase. Not to mention the align dfc has zero give in the links. So the blade flutter also makes an appearance just skid light. Throwing some fbl controllers into confusion, and tossing the heli upside down. Align DFC is simply the very worst design they tried to rip off poorly ever thrown into the industry I feel. This will not happen with a normal non DFC head. Or the Compass 6HV version.

Some 800 blades are also poorly built, and they aren't matched evenly in profiles. So one produces more drag, the other more or less lift. This also manifests in spool down or up just skid light in the same manner.
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Old 04-05-2014, 07:58 PM   #826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
With the ultra light 600 heli under those huge 800 blades. You simply don't need the head speed high unless you are stick banging. Since I ended up running my favorite 115T Kde mod 1 gears in mine. I use the lowest Rhino pinion that fits which is a 10T. At 80% gov my HS was around 1600. Which I found perfect for just about everything myself. Most the fpv and camera guys run it down another 2 to 300 lower. I ran it up once a few times to 1900 and it was just insane. That same speed on my 800 stretched gob that is twice as heavy is still a great 3d heli.
I wonder what a 550 stretched to 800 would be like. Same mechanics as the 600 only with a smaller/lighter frame so I don't see why it wouldn't work (though a Helioption block might be a good idea) Alternatively you could just drill the holes for the third bearing block and use a 600N DFC shaft (should fit with an approximately 6mm wide shim under the collar and the bolt hole should be the same height give or take a few mm)
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:40 PM   #827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
I wonder what a 550 stretched to 800 would be like. Same mechanics as the 600 only with a smaller/lighter frame so I don't see why it wouldn't work (though a Helioption block might be a good idea) Alternatively you could just drill the holes for the third bearing block and use a 600N DFC shaft (should fit with an approximately 6mm wide shim under the collar and the bolt hole should be the same height give or take a few mm)
Only problem is you are so limited on battery space with a 550. And getting cg correct takes a lot of extra battery stretched out to 800
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:07 PM   #828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pc3associate View Post
Only problem is you are so limited on battery space with a 550. And getting cg correct takes a lot of extra battery stretched out to 800
Simple enough to attach a wider tray made out of CF or G10 or whatever to the existing one. There should be plenty of room under the DFC canopy for this.
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:15 AM   #829
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My 550 strech to 600 has a 6s 8000 pack + 3000 life + 120 ice2 esc ot the battery tray, and it balance ok. So stretch that 550 further with stock battery tray is not a good idea.
The front frame body should have been longer away from m.shaft...
I had two 6s 3000 packs on it too, didnt work out well that either.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:03 AM   #830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runesb View Post
My 550 strech to 600 has a 6s 8000 pack + 3000 life + 120 ice2 esc ot the battery tray, and it balance ok. So stretch that 550 further with stock battery tray is not a good idea.
The front frame body should have been longer away from m.shaft...
I had two 6s 3000 packs on it too, didnt work out well that either.
The 550 doesn't need to be "stretched" to 600 anymore. It comes with a 600 boom right out of the box now. I'm not really sure how they can even keep calling it a 550.

Last edited by Atomic Skull; 04-06-2014 at 05:45 PM..
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:15 AM   #831
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See the new 550 pro dfc has 600boom and blades... Yre right about why call it a 550... its a 600 for sure..
They provide the 2mm frame a stock as well in this one..
The battery tray is at same place too as the v1..
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:38 AM   #832
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Found this on Youtube.

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Old 04-07-2014, 08:25 PM   #833
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There is a thread in the 550 section where quite a few guys have stretched their helis out. I am not sure how far out beyond 720mm they have taken them though. But as a 700 they work quite well.
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