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Old 01-13-2012, 08:30 PM   #1
joecass2
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Default what after run oil in nitro engine

what are you guys using for after run oil is WD40 ok to use?
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
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I use automatic transmission fluid. Don't know that I'd use WD40 for long term storage. It's pretty thin, and I'm not sure it'd coat really well and stay where it needs to stay.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecass2 View Post
what are you guys using for after run oil is WD40 ok to use?
No, almost anything else is better, including bare glow fuel.

WD40 (water displacement formula 40) is designed to displace water, that's it. It has no anti-corrosive properties. There are numerous after run oils that will be good, as well as Marvell Mystery oil (ATF?) 2stroke fogging oil is perfect.

Personally, I keep mine in a climate controlled environment (in the house) and that's it. No problems. If outside in a shed or storeroom, then yes, afterrun oil.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:47 PM   #4
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WD will also eventually eat away at the little o-rings inside your carb.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:26 AM   #5
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Marvel mystery oil, ATF, Air tool oil etc. All of them work fine.
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:26 AM   #6
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i have a raptor 50 se. i can hardly see the carb opening. how are you guys gitting the after run oil into the
carb?
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:37 AM   #7
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I use fuel tubing ( or similar tubing) to get it in the carb, or remove the muffler and spray it in through the exhaust.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
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i have a raptor 50 se. i can hardly see the carb opening. how are you guys gitting the after run oil into the carb?
I keep oil in a 2 ounce fuel tank and hook it up to the fuel line going to the carburetor. I then run the starter with the transmitter set in the normal starting position until I see oil flowing through the line. I then remove the fuel tank containing the oil and run the starter some more until the line going to the carb is empty. I figure this should distribute the oil through the engine. I've never had any type of bearing failure or any issues starting the engine the next time I go out.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:20 AM   #9
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All the above oils are good. The main reason to lube is the bearings. Some motors use high quality carbon steel bearings but have very little stainless in their formulation. These bearings are very prone to rust and can wreck you fine little motor very quickly. I found out the hard way with an OS motor in a plank.
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:55 PM   #10
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Same here with the bearings. I tried some of the blue evolution engines stuff and I guess it didn't do a good enough job. Rust ate up one of my buggy engines . Only time I've had that happen too.

As for oils, I've had all kinds of stuff but I've always like the Prather red oil, which I've found is very similar to the red hobbico stuff. Marvel oil works very well too. GMK "Afterlife" is one I've found to be exceptional if you wanted a purpose made after oil. Engines I've put this in have never rusted and start pretty easily.

The most important part about after run though really is trying to make sure you're leaving as little nitromethane in the engine as possible. The methanol in nitro is extremely hygroscopic and will absorb moisture rather quickly. Hence why many folks at our track/field will pinch/shut the fuel line for the last run of the day, then try to burn out remaining nitro by trying to start the engine with the fuel cut off. This also conveniently makes engines really easy to start the next time if tuned right.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:23 PM   #11
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Here's another thread that you mind find interesting concerning nitro shut down and storage.

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....09#post3470009

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Old 01-19-2012, 03:45 PM   #12
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I have been clamping it and filling the tank before I go home for several years and it works fine. I used to use after run oil on cars and then stopped on helis.

My Trex600N never gets more than a two week break from flying, but every time I open it up it is rust free.

I go through bearings about once a year. I have destroyed several nitro motors because of my own lack of tuning ability, but it was not for lack of after run oil.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:03 PM   #13
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The problem with rust in the bearings is you may not even see it. All it takes is a tiny bit of pitting on the bearing surface, the balls in particular, and the self destruct cycle has already begun.

The fuels we run are comprised mostly of alcohol, which has a very high affinity for water. So you may not "see" any water in your fuel... but it is there. All it takes is a small amount in your motor to begin the bearing wrecking process.

It is best to be safe than sorry. Put a small amount of oil in the motor and spin it a few times after you are done flying for the day.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:16 PM   #14
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but, what oil would you use in the ys?
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
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but, what oil would you use in the ys?
On page one of this post the guys mentioned several good choices. You don't necessarily have to get some super duper oil. Just about any oil will work to displace the water molecules from around the bearings.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:01 PM   #16
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cool guys thanks. one more question how much are you guys putting in?
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Old 01-19-2012, 11:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
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cool guys thanks. one more question how much are you guys putting in?
A squirt or so. You will know if you put too much when you try to start the motor next time.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:08 PM   #18
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on the cool power bottle. the label says do not use after run oils. what do you guys think of this?
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
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on the cool power bottle. the label says do not use after run oils. what do you guys think of this?
I, like michael503, don't use after run oil.

I never have and have never had any problems. I kill the motor with throttle trim, clamp the fuel line, refill the tank, plug the exhaust and go home. The heli sits in my basement when not in use. I've let the engine sit for months with zero issues.
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Old 02-15-2012, 08:07 AM   #20
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Marvel Mystery Oil will turn into red gummy gunk after a while. Marvel Air Tool Oil does not.

Synthetic Automatic Transmission Oil works well.

Klotz sells a spray can of after run oil (easier to use) or you can just use their RC Model Lube oil.

A bit of castor oil in your fuel works quite well and you don't have to do anything. 1 or 2 ounces per gallon is all that is needed.

For YS engines, watch what you use, as they have silicon parts in the fuel system and the wrong oil can cause them to swell and degrade. Performance Specialties sells an oil that is safe.

http://www.pspec.com/results.asp?category=7 Bottom of page.
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