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Old 02-09-2012, 04:55 AM   #1
vadimpelau
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Post DX7s Backlight mod tutorial

This tutorial is made with the HobbyKing backlight kit which is also used for the dx6i.



Dos
Read this tutorial twice before starting
Didn't understand something? Ask!
Remove the transparent film from the EL pannel
Remove the transparent film from the LCD (if there is one)
Test your panel and screen when possible before any important step

Don'ts
You do not need any other parts with the EL panel from HobbyKing
Do not peel off the reflective layer on the back of the LCD
Do not peel off the white layer on the back of the EL panel
Do not try to ad higher voltage to the panel
Do not try to bypass the panel circuit
Do not forget to screw back the motor holder
Do not forget to screw back the card reader




Start by removing the battery and preparing the following tools:
-the EL pannel from HobbyKing
-double sided tape(thin)
-wires (will add exact length)
-wire cutters
-screw driver
-exacto knife or similar
-shrink tube (for the wires you picked)
-soldering iron
-solder




Remove the three pairs of screws. You can access the hidden one by prying the rubber grip to the side and then lifting it.
This is also the right time to ready your soldering iron.




Snip off the shrink tube and the wires leading to the connector. We will use them to make the positioning of the screen much easier, as the screen wonít be tied up with the rest of the remote.
The male connector will be used later to supply power to the panel.
Make sure the connection is loose, file down the plastic creases and make sure the two are easy to remove from one another.




Open up your remote if you haven't already and remove the SD-card reader, first the marked screws, then gently pull it up.




Make sure you have removed the battery!
Now you can see the wires connecting the vibrator motor. Pre-apply some solder on your positive (ď+Ē) wire and then solder it to the marked spot.




Now go to the back side of the DX7S and solder a wire (negative ď-Ē) to the indicated pin on the back board.
Make sure you have removed the battery!
Add some fresh solder on the pin and make sure you donít touch the one next to it.
Pre-solder your negative wire (black if you have one, I was too lazy to look for one) and then solder it to the pin.




Bind (do not solder or shrink the tube yet) the wires accordingly, pin 2 should be positive, pin 3 negative and connect them to your EL panel.
Plug the battery in and power up your transmitter, it should power up normally, as should the EL.
(my panel was already behind the screen at this stage but you should always check if it works first)




Next letís remove the screen board. Start by removing the three connectors, then the six indicated screws, donít forget about the two that are holding the motor in place. To not touch the two unmarked screws, they hold the screen in place.




We will not use the screen hinges anymore so you might want to try some paper markings too for extra precision!
Place the board on a sheet of paper, draw out the contour of the board, then trace the lower side of the screen as shown above in orange.
Also note the areas marked with red. If lazy, you can also rely on them to align the screen properly once the backlight is in place, especially the upper solder points and the flex cable that should be straight.




Separate the screen from the board by removing the two screws and the flex cable on the back. To remove the flex cable, gently pull the two pins down and the cable should be loose.




Once the screen is removed apply the thick foam tape that came with your screen. Rely on the holes that were used by the screen holders to position it symmetrically, you canít miss.
Then apply a layer of double sided ducktape, but DO NOT remove the non sticky paper! The non sticky paper will be useful to remove the screen in case we misalign it.

Now apply two strips of double sided ducktape on the borders of the screen, donít be shy as I was, they wonít show on the display. Remove the protective film from your EL pannel and place it as shown above, make sure there is enough room for the buttons!

Place a strip of double ducktape in a manner that will overlap with the one on the foamtape. Watch it, the white plastic sheet is essential for a good lighting and unfortunately very easy to remove!




Make sure youíve left enough room for the buttons.
Make sure YOU DID NOT remove the white plastic sheet on the back of the Panel.

If you have made a drawing, use it now to align the screen and the board, if not, first connect the flex cable, then place the screen so that you can still see the multiple solder points above and the flex cable is straight.




And there you have it, the sandwich is now complete. Note however that the screen here is placed too high as you canít see the the solder points!




Once the screen is properly in place, put the board pack in place but watch out to not over tighten the screws!
Connect the battery and re-test the contraption.
Do not forget to fix the motor.
Do not forget to put back the card reader.



And the end result:





Cheers

Last edited by vadimpelau; 02-15-2012 at 04:08 AM..
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:01 PM   #2
aerocal
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No comment.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:38 PM   #3
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Please let us know how it goes! I just purchased a dx7s and would like to add a backlight to it as well.
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:54 PM   #4
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It's done I couldn't wait anymore.

I will make a detailed walkthrough with pictures in the next few days.

So far:
-you do not need any other parts with the EL pannel from HobbyKing
-the wires have to be soldered: negative to the negative pin on the tiny board attached to the back of the remote, positive to the positive of the motor.

I've used the simple approach from the DX6i thread with double sided ducktape (and used the foam tape that came with the screen, for DX7s it fits just right)

More to come next week, stay tuned!
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:44 PM   #5
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Can't wait to see a step by step tutorial, thanks for your effort.
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:11 AM   #6
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Thanks, tutorial is up, if you don't understand something please ask.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:39 PM   #7
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Thanks for the tutorial, will be trying out when my backlight panels reach me.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:57 PM   #8
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I've done this once to my dx6i and had problems binding. I installed a switch to cut off the light when i had to bind. I did some research on it back then and there were others having the same problem.
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:04 PM   #9
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I don't believe the panel from HK is an EL panel. I think it is LED. EL drivers are certainly more noisy than LED, and have the potential to cause interference.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:18 AM   #10
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That's right, mine was an el panel
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:56 AM   #11
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Anyone else having trouble cracking the case?

I removed all 6 screws and I have yanked on it as hard as I feel comfortable with and still can't separate the case. Seems like the rubber on the sides of the Tx is glued to both halves.

Could it be that there are different versions of the DX7s?


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Old 02-28-2012, 11:57 AM   #12
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Excellent, I'll go blue on mine. My DX7s have to arrive next week. And I will order one of these kit.
Saludos!
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekMason View Post
Anyone else having trouble cracking the case?

I removed all 6 screws and I have yanked on it as hard as I feel comfortable with and still can't separate the case. Seems like the rubber on the sides of the Tx is glued to both halves.

Could it be that there are different versions of the DX7s?


TekMason
Peel the rubber off, if its like the DX8 its held on with double-sided tape.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:05 PM   #14
aerocal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekMason View Post
Anyone else having trouble cracking the case?

I removed all 6 screws and I have yanked on it as hard as I feel comfortable with and still can't separate the case. Seems like the rubber on the sides of the Tx is glued to both halves.

Could it be that there are different versions of the DX7s?


TekMason
If you cant figure out that the rubber grip needs to come off you probably shouldnt be poking around inside making modifications.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerocal View Post
If you cant figure out that the rubber grip needs to come off you probably shouldnt be poking around inside making modifications.
Be nice aerocal. I'm just a noob at RC ;)
Just looking for verification.

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Old 02-29-2012, 10:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekMason View Post
Be nice aerocal. I'm just a noob at RC
Just looking for verification.

TekMason
I know.I wasnt trying to be mean or anything.Im just saying Ive seen so many opinions on these forums and so many with very little experience in general that are being so quick to hack into something and "make it better" because someone else comes along with a web tutorial on how to be an electronics engineer.
Ive also seen on many occasions where things didnt turn out so well after all.
Im just saying proceed with caution.If your not exactly sure what your doing you probably shouldnt be doing it.

I probably should just shut up and let you guys do as you please and learn these lessons the hard way.What if your radio actually needs some kind of factory service?
You think they will work on it if it has been modified?
What if the mod component fails and fries something else(Ive seen this)? Are you willing to take the chance of turning the radio into a brick if something goes wrong?
Lets just hope noone gets hurt in the process.
Rant over.
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:12 AM   #17
vadimpelau
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Ok, new panel (not EL panel) from HK arrived yesterday, fitted it in today, the light is completely uniform!

Dunno what was wrong with the first one, but you certainly shouldn't remove any of the white tapes if you want the led panel to work right.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:19 AM   #18
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Does any one know of a supplier of these backlights that is more local to North America? I am willing to spend a little more if i can get it quicker($30 or more would be too much)
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:23 AM   #19
vadimpelau
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You could try any electronics shop to find an EL panel and an inverter, they most certainly have it.
You should check the original post for the inverter voltage.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:48 PM   #20
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Default HobbyKing.com does NOT encrypt transactions

I'm dumbfounded! HK.com. I just tried to order this kit and found out that the page that asks for your information, address, phone #, etc. is NOT encrypted (http instead of https!) No way I'm ordering from a bunch of guys who have no concern or knowledge about keeping their customers information safe.

Too bad since I really wanted this $5 backlight kit for my DX7s.
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