FES X5 CNC main rotor yoke doesn't fit - Page 2

helidude71 · 02-16-2012, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rotaryguy

Very carefully

I polished down the upper portion of the mast with 600+, lined up the head and tapped it down with a plastic/hard rubber mallet after removing a bit of material from the main shaft.

Passed my mind to do it like that. I think I go for the 600+ paper.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harrow

I'm wondering if the problem is due to paint inside the head? Perhaps they are machined correctly, but the paint makes it tight? Or are they anodised, and does that still add thickness?

Could be. It is black on the inside.
However a few mention it being fairly loose.
My guess is tolerances are not GAUIs best friend.

To be honest, Align does a better job at this. (My only comparison.)

GazeyJR · 02-16-2012, 03:10 PM

I would think, the tighter the better, Because, there is less room for movement, Therefore, less vibration. But i have to admit, I am extremely happy with Align, when it come to Yokes, and Mainshafts, haha

gbidwell · 02-16-2012, 04:03 PM

I think most people on this forum have forgoten their original build. The issues that you are having are nothing new, I had them myself and can add more to the list. I too believe that the kit has QC issues, not to mention the fact that it lacks a quality comprehensive instruction manual and parts bags that are labelled using the same system as the steps in the manual (eg: step 1-1 to 1-5 should have a parts bag with all the relevant screws and components labelled “1”).

I have built lots of models from RC cars to airplanes and helis, this kit isn’t that enjoyable and leaves lots of questions. Many may think that i’m fussy, but it really makes a difference.

Problems to add to the list:
Elevator servo requires additional shimming out from the frame to shift the servo arm to be in line with the swash ball.
Elevator servo arm (stock) hits the tail boom at only 8 degrees pitch
Screws for the Elevator servo are not long enough after shimming, required 12mm M2.5 Screws
Many screws in the kit where replaced with my own as they were too short (frame stiffener is a key example) – this is where having lots a screws gets you out of issues when building new kits. A newbie would only end up frustrated.
Motor mount is the biggest PITA to adjust the gear mesh. Probably the worst design I have encountered. You need a L- shaped ball wrench, adjust insitu and find the sweet spot, remove the whole unit, loctite and tighten all screws, reinstall only to find that you need to readjust the mesh using the countersunk screw tolerance. Any future adjustments require the removal of electronics from below the motor as well. PITA.
BUT...once you get over the fact that GAUI is useless with QC and manuals and figure it out for yourself then you find yourself with a model that flys great, with no need for a motor upgrade like many other kits from align.

helidude71 · 02-17-2012, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbidwell

I think most people on this forum have forgoten their original build. The issues that you are having are nothing new, I had them myself and can add more to the list. I too believe that the kit has QC issues, not to mention the fact that it lacks a quality comprehensive instruction manual and parts bags that are labelled using the same system as the steps in the manual (eg: step 1-1 to 1-5 should have a parts bag with all the relevant screws and components labelled “1”).

I have built lots of models from RC cars to airplanes and helis, this kit isn’t that enjoyable and leaves lots of questions. Many may think that i’m fussy, but it really makes a difference.

Problems to add to the list:
Elevator servo requires additional shimming out from the frame to shift the servo arm to be in line with the swash ball.
Elevator servo arm (stock) hits the tail boom at only 8 degrees pitch
Screws for the Elevator servo are not long enough after shimming, required 12mm M2.5 Screws
Many screws in the kit where replaced with my own as they were too short (frame stiffener is a key example) – this is where having lots a screws gets you out of issues when building new kits. A newbie would only end up frustrated.
Motor mount is the biggest PITA to adjust the gear mesh. Probably the worst design I have encountered. You need a L- shaped ball wrench, adjust insitu and find the sweet spot, remove the whole unit, loctite and tighten all screws, reinstall only to find that you need to readjust the mesh using the countersunk screw tolerance. Any future adjustments require the removal of electronics from below the motor as well. PITA.
BUT...once you get over the fact that GAUI is useless with QC and manuals and figure it out for yourself then you find yourself with a model that flys great, with no need for a motor upgrade like many other kits from align.

+1
Well, this summed it up very nicely.
I recognize all your points.

Funny thing is my frame stiffener came with a lot of screws, a bit longer then stock.
Makes perfect sense when you look at it.
Then when I tried to mount, the holes are not drilled deep enough to use them.

So I used the shorter stock ones again.

To be honest I expected to read about this all on HF but no mention.
I'm glad it's not my first heli so I will figure it out regardless.

I hope after maiden I'll look like this:

helidude71 · 02-17-2012, 04:37 PM

Before I forget.

Today I received my new yoke.
Less tight!

I still needed to use the 600 paper on the main shaft.
It worked out great!

I ruined my first yoke by twisting it on the main shaft using some force.
It created a nasty wobble.
So save yourself the trouble and sand the main shaft a bit if it doesn't fit smoothly.

gbidwell · 02-18-2012, 06:18 PM

Good Work. I found another issue yesterday when redbuilding my flybarred X5. The bolts securing the washout arms to the washout block are too long. I originally shimmed the bolts to take up the slop, but this time replaced the 10mm long bolts for 8mm long.

Dont know how they built the prototype...but the manual says 10mm long bolts, the kit came with 10mm long bolts, yet the bolts bottom out before the slop is taken up.

02-16-2012, 03:10 PM	#22
GazeyJR Registered Users Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Australia	I would think, the tighter the better, Because, there is less room for movement, Therefore, less vibration. But i have to admit, I am extremely happy with Align, when it come to Yokes, and Mainshafts, haha __________________ Field Rep for QIKAZZ Hobbies To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Trex 600EFL Pro. 8FG Sbus.

02-17-2012, 04:37 PM	#25
helidude71 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: The Netherlands	Before I forget. Today I received my new yoke. Less tight! I still needed to use the 600 paper on the main shaft. It worked out great! I ruined my first yoke by twisting it on the main shaft using some force. It created a nasty wobble. So save yourself the trouble and sand the main shaft a bit if it doesn't fit smoothly. __________________ T-Rex 500 ESP FBL, Microbeast v3, Scorpion HK-3026-1600, CC ICE 75 TSH Gaui X5 FES, Mini VBar 5.3 Pro, S.Bus, DS610s, DS650, YGE 100LV Futaba T7C Phoenix R/C v4

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02-16-2012, 04:03 PM	#23
gbidwell Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Melbourne, Australia	I think most people on this forum have forgoten their original build. The issues that you are having are nothing new, I had them myself and can add more to the list. I too believe that the kit has QC issues, not to mention the fact that it lacks a quality comprehensive instruction manual and parts bags that are labelled using the same system as the steps in the manual (eg: step 1-1 to 1-5 should have a parts bag with all the relevant screws and components labelled “1”). I have built lots of models from RC cars to airplanes and helis, this kit isn’t that enjoyable and leaves lots of questions. Many may think that i’m fussy, but it really makes a difference. Problems to add to the list: Elevator servo requires additional shimming out from the frame to shift the servo arm to be in line with the swash ball. Elevator servo arm (stock) hits the tail boom at only 8 degrees pitch Screws for the Elevator servo are not long enough after shimming, required 12mm M2.5 Screws Many screws in the kit where replaced with my own as they were too short (frame stiffener is a key example) – this is where having lots a screws gets you out of issues when building new kits. A newbie would only end up frustrated. Motor mount is the biggest PITA to adjust the gear mesh. Probably the worst design I have encountered. You need a L- shaped ball wrench, adjust insitu and find the sweet spot, remove the whole unit, loctite and tighten all screws, reinstall only to find that you need to readjust the mesh using the countersunk screw tolerance. Any future adjustments require the removal of electronics from below the motor as well. PITA. BUT...once you get over the fact that GAUI is useless with QC and manuals and figure it out for yourself then you find yourself with a model that flys great, with no need for a motor upgrade like many other kits from align.

02-18-2012, 06:18 PM	#26
gbidwell Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Melbourne, Australia	Good Work. I found another issue yesterday when redbuilding my flybarred X5. The bolts securing the washout arms to the washout block are too long. I originally shimmed the bolts to take up the slop, but this time replaced the 10mm long bolts for 8mm long. Dont know how they built the prototype...but the manual says 10mm long bolts, the kit came with 10mm long bolts, yet the bolts bottom out before the slop is taken up.