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Old 02-19-2012, 09:54 PM   #1
irishmatt18
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Default Issues, Solutions, Tricks.

What issues have you had with your build or during set up?



What solutions did you come up with if needed?



Any tricks for building this bad boy?
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:23 PM   #2
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misdrilled canopy holes. off enough to be irritating. but the tail case awesomeness makes up for it
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:45 PM   #3
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I love a good looking tail.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishmatt18 View Post
I love a good looking tail.
Who doesn't...
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:36 AM   #5
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I misaligned the boom support ends when I CA'd them on one of the rods. My own fault.

I tried to pull them apart but...too late, I broke the rod.

Now I'm waiting on some replacements from Mullen. I know I should have been more careful, but a slot in the rod and a tab on the end for alignment would have idiot proofed it, which I apparently need!
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:18 AM   #6
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I misaligned the boom support ends when I CA'd them on one of the rods. My own fault.

I tried to pull them apart but...too late, I broke the rod.

Now I'm waiting on some replacements from Mullen. I know I should have been more careful, but a slot in the rod and a tab on the end for alignment would have idiot proofed it, which I apparently need!
I don't think CA will be a strong enough bond. It would be best to rough up the carbon ends a little and use Epoxy. If you stage the tail boom clamp on the boom, epoxy the ends on the supports and then mount the boom supports,it will hold everything in place while the epoxy dries.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
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I don't think CA will be a strong enough bond. It would be best to rough up the carbon ends a little and use Epoxy. If you stage the tail boom clamp on the boom, epoxy the ends on the supports and then mount the boom supports,it will hold everything in place while the epoxy dries.
30min epoxy sitting overnight would be ideal, but you can get away with using the 5minute stuff
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:45 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by bjb714 View Post
I misaligned the boom support ends when I CA'd them on one of the rods. My own fault.

I tried to pull them apart but...too late, I broke the rod.

Now I'm waiting on some replacements from Mullen. I know I should have been more careful, but a slot in the rod and a tab on the end for alignment would have idiot proofed it, which I apparently need!
I have undone CA'd ends from a tail pushrod by just touching a soldering gun to the metal end for a few seconds to heat it up, the ca let loose for me very quickly when I did this.

Hope this helps for next time..


Dave
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:31 PM   #9
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Default frame divider posts

did anyone have any issues with these lining up? i cross threaded mine so i had to get a new cf divider. i know i could have hacked something up to put a nut in there and a longer bolt but wanted to do it right. is there a trick to lining them up? its very tight fitting
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:44 PM   #10
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Are you talking battery divider? If you are,make sure you tap the tabs all the way forward. Its a tight fit, but it will move forward another 2-3mm and then the holes line up.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Are you talking battery divider? If you are,make sure you tap the tabs all the way forward. Its a tight fit, but it will move forward another 2-3mm and then the holes line up.


yup maybe thats why, i just forced the screws in and it stripped(since it wasnt lined up). ill tap it like you suggested. Thanks,
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:46 PM   #12
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No problem..Another quick tip, this was hard to tell from the manual..use the special servo spacer on the top two alieron bolts. It stops the canopy from binding the links

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Last edited by Rollin_3z; 02-21-2012 at 05:58 PM.. Reason: It is in manual, but not very noticable
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
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No problem..Another quick tip, this was omitted from manual..use the special servo spacer on the top two alieron bolts. It stops the canopy from binding the links
Nice find...
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:00 PM   #14
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Just edited my post, it is in the manual . Too quick on the build and missed it the first time.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:11 PM   #15
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I have not gotten to servos yet, so I'm right with ya. I'm waiting for all electronics to show up before I dig back in to the build and finish it up..
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:18 PM   #16
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My motor should be in by Thursday. Can't wait to test this out.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Just edited my post, it is in the manual . Too quick on the build and missed it the first time.
Being that I don't have one yet, not sure what that will be but is it obvious what the servo spacers are and where they need to go?
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:13 PM   #18
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I used a little too much thin ca to glue the bearings on the torque tube and seized a bearing. I had to take the heat gun to it to break up the ca then clean it really well with debonder, then re-lube with some grease and a touch of triflow. It works fine now.

Also, I found that my TT gear didn't mesh very right on the main gear so I removed the smallest shim from between the top of the main gear to the bearing block. It's much tighter now, but I can still get some paper between the gears.

It took took a little while to find the right tension for the tail pitch slider link bolts. To tight and the tail binds, but you don't want that to come apart. I found that some red locktight and just snug was the sweet spot.

I didn't have any issues with pinion mesh. I put the motor as close to the main gear as I could and found that if I wiggle the main gear and can detect just the slightest amount of play which is perfect. I usually set my gears up this way. I make it as tight as I can while I can still detect some play. It doesn't need much, just enough that the gear isn't bottomed out. Everything moves freely.

Another thing I found was that the savox high volt servos don't work on anything less than 6v without jittering. I set my CC BEC pro to 7.5 and they are way happier (and fast!). I don't trust the bec pro on 12s so it's wired to use only one of the 6s packs.

With the BEC pro, savox servos, spyder 6s5300 batteries and the 7200BX spektrum/beastx, KDBB tail blades and align 690D main blades, the heli came out pretty light at 11.5lbs.

schu
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:28 AM   #19
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"It took took a little while to find the right tension for the tail pitch slider link bolts. To tight and the tail binds, but you don't want that to come apart. I found that some red locktight and just snug was the sweet spot."

Mine was the same..the bushings are a tad too small, so when you tighten the bolt, it binds the link (You might get a slow wag on hover if your pitch slider not smooth).

Irishmatt, on page 27 it shows the servos without spacers and on 28 it shows the servos on the frames. I''ve built a few helis already, so when I got to that part, I braided my servo lines,hid the wires and setup my head geometry without double checking manual..lol
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:08 AM   #20
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Did everyone remember to remove and loctite the set screw that holds the pin in that keeps the rear torque tube output gear from moving?
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