Connectors Workshop

[Mercuriell]

Been doing a lot of connectng recently so thought I'd expand the Power Pole review into a Connector Workshop to cover soldering and crimping of power and servo leads

Power Connectors

Review of 75A Anderson Power Poles - 55MB wmv

Review of 45A Anderson Power Poles - 16MB wmv

Soldering EC5 connectors


Lipo Packs

Splitting a 12S stick lipo into two


Servo connectors

Video review of servo crimping set

[Mercuriell]

My Hobby King shielded bullet connectors have done me great service for the past 2-3 years.

However, chasing speed, with some of the higher C packs and LE Scorpion motors, started to overstress them resulting in hot connectors and wire at the end of flights. I had heard good things about Anderson PPs so thought I'd try them out - here are my experiences using the 75 Amp connectors to be followed by a review of the much smaller 30-45A variety. The 75A 8-12 SWG connectors need a heavy crimping tool - I used a hydraulic variety

The Anderson website is excellent - full of detailed specs and how-tos !

Video 1 - Review of 75A Anderson Power Poles - 55MB wmv

Video 2 - Review of 45A Anderson Power Poles - 16MB wmv

[Dogdocphil]

Excellent review!! I have been using the APP's for over a year now and I have some comments to make and I will take some pictures to show you some tips if you would like. I am using the 45 amp APP's exclusively. They are rated to use up to 10 gauge wire and it is easy to do a crimp with that size wire. I also have a method to crimp the 45 amp connectors on 8 gauge wire. Most of the guys in our club are running the 45 amp APP's in the 700 class machines with absolutely no issues. We all use the little locking clips to hold the APP's together which I think is essential. One of the BIG advantages is make a 12s setup from 2 6s batteries. With APP's, all you need to make up is a single wire, usually around six inches long to do a series connection. I can provide pics of that. The Crimper I use is made for APP's and does an amazing job making perfect crimps every time. It will fold over the tabs AND turn them in so there is a large surface area that is in contact between the wire and the connector. Here is the link to that crimper. This one does NOT do the 75 amp connectors:

http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-to...-contacts.html

[Dogdocphil]

Oops! Here is the crimper I use for the 75 amp APP's. It works perfectly. It does all four sizes:

http://www.hamcq.com/powerpoles/powe.../prod_485.html

[Mercuriell]

Thanks for the helpful posts Phil, I think the tip about locking clips for the 45A is very advisable as they dont click securely together like the 75 A do

[Dogdocphil]

Your Welcome! As far as the locking clips, we go a step further. One of my buddies Al, at our heli field had a locking clip fall out in flight so he devised a very simple solution. He bought "O" rings and slid one on to the APP's. When he insterted the locking clip, he would roll the O ring over the locking clip to secure it. We have not had any issues since. We us # 42 O rings for this

[Marine6680]

Those are cool, looks like they will work great.

But yeah, those crimpers he linked would work better. That fold over crimp style is named for the original manufacturers. Molex...

We use molex style in full scale aviation for our simpler power connections. Not allowed to use them on flight critical connections.

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by Marine6680

But yeah, those crimpers he linked would work better. That fold over crimp style is named for the original manufacturers. Molex...

We use molex style in full scale aviation for our simpler power connections. Not allowed to use them on flight critical connections.

Interesting snippet on Molex from Wikipedia:

The company began by making flowerpots out of an industrial byproduct plastic called Molex. Later they made connectors for General Electric and other appliance manufacturers out of the same plastic.

[alilee]

Originally Posted by Dogdocphil

I am using the 45 amp APP's exclusively. They are rated to use up to 10 gauge wire and it is easy to do a crimp with that size wire. I also have a method to crimp the 45 amp connectors on 8 gauge wire. Most of the guys in our club are running the 45 amp APP's in the 700 class machines with absolutely no issues.

There is quite a bit of content in the forums and on the Net already discussing this issue, so I hope I'm not distracting from the great review.

The arc from a 6S connection does take its toll on the connector and I guess a 12S spark would be even more destructive. I'm thinking about an Emcotec Safety Power Switch to avoid hot connections altogether, so my point relates to continuous operation.

Can someone with electrical background confirm that t-rise is proportionate to the current (amps) rather than the power (watts) through the connector, which is what I read on the Net?

It seems intuitive to me that 45 amps at 110 volts (household) (4950W) will create more heat than 45 amps at 44.4 volts (12S) (being 1998W).

Should this give me confidence running the lower rated connectors?

[nightflyr]

If your concerned about the initial arcing when plugging your connectors together..
Might suggest installing a anti-spark resistor.
This will eliminate the initial arcing and damage to the connector contact..




Or

[Mercuriell]

I think the sparking problem is over rated. Most contacts arc on the tip of the contact then make definitive contact on a different surface. I have used 4 mm bullets on hundreds of lights on 12S with no contact problems. The PP 75 is rated for at least 250 hot cycles at 50A and 120V.

[Dogdocphil]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

I think the sparking problem is over rated. Most contacts arc on the tip of the contact then make definitive contact on a different surface. I have used 4 mm bullets on hundreds of lights on 12S with no contact problems. The PP 75 is rated for at least 250 hot cycles at 50A and 120V.

I agree with Mercruiell on this. The spark when you make a 12s connecton on the APP's is NOT where the contact is. I have taken the APP's apart and I have not seen any scoring on the contact surface of the APP's

[chrisag]

Let's put this in persepecetive. Like many safety issues usually you don't have a problem. Safety is not about what usually happens but what could happen. Sparks could damage the connector and could cause a fire.

If the connection point of a connector is damaged and causes a high resistance connection then the connector could get hot enough to burn fingers, melt, or cause a fire.
The spark could cause a fire if exposed to something that burns or explodes. Let's say for example the gasses given off from some types of batteries when being charged.

I said I would put this in persepective, so here it is. It's your heli, your fingers, and your life. Do what you want. But, stay away from my heli and please play at the other end of the field or better yet at another field.

PS I have seen the results of batteries that exploded. Both times from a spark caused by a poor connection.

[Elios000]

i know the Hobby wing HV esc that came with my 6HV has spark arrester on it like the first one in nightflyrs post

[Mercuriell]

Was asked to split a 12S pack down into two 6S for a guy who had previously bought stick packs - also wanted EC5 connectors adding so here are two films on how I split the stick pack down - gives an idea how they can be put together and how I soldered the EC5.

Like all electrical work you shouldn't attempt this unless you have a clear understanding of the principles and risks involved and you have the necessary knowledge and tools to perform the job properly and safely.

Splitting down a 12S STick pack - 143MB wmv

Soldering up EC5 connectors - wmv 44MB

[Elios000]

ok thats a cool idea i might have to make some thing like that

got any tips for Deans connectors?

[Mercuriell]

Yes I'll cover Deans although it has been done elsewhere in HF

[Elios000]

just wondering if you had any tricks that i might not have seen yet
but i think my real solution is to go to powerpoles

[Mercuriell]

Not really any tricks but:

1) use genuine Deans
2) dont mix makes of Deans type plugs if you use generics
3) tin the contacts using a powerful iron, at least 30W
4) dont use above 12 swg wires, they take so much heat to properly solder
5) use a croc clip holder to avoid burning fingers and moving the contacts while the solder cools

[Mercuriell]

A little look into the world of servo lead crimping (or other plug/socket like JST/XH etc if you can get the plugs/sockets.

Never really found good crimpers until I tried a pair from Hansen Hobbies which seemed to give consistently good results and easy (ish) to use:

Video review of servo crimping set - wmv 51MB