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Old 05-01-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
Danny_Swe
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Exclamation Ventilation fix - Part 1 of 3

We are having much warmer here now so I experienced this "three-beep" also at 1660 rpm the other day. Also when I have now tuned the motor it gets really hot also, you couldn't touch it before....

So we start with fixing the ESC. See photos. Have stripped the shrink wrap, added some spacers underneath (before I had self-adhesive tape, now it's exopy-glued wood pieces and screws). I had some heat sinks that was plan B, like cranes almost, but tried this first.

For info! Rob Cherry wrote i another thread:

Quote:
But the ESC is only warm, so I'm not sure exactly what component is getting hot. It seems to have a low tolerance to warm temps. The other thing, it's not exactly an over-temp warning, it's just a raised temp notification. If it over-temps, it shuts down to 50%.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:57 PM   #22
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Default Ventilation fix - Part 2 of 3

I tried without canopy before doing anything at all and got no problems at all! So I decided to make some "mesh" in the "wind screen" to get more air in.

Didn't have so much time for this project so I took some alu-mesh I had. Took a piece of paper, marked one side, folded it and cut out. Marked the hole and with the dremel I cut out the hole. Took the paper and put it on the mesh, added one centimeter, dremel again. With original piece I bent it to fit, epoxy and black paint. If I had put some more love in it I would have followed the original curvature (keep the cut out part for later if you wanna do a spare one).

Bonus feature: You can have your TDR as a lamp at home!
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:00 PM   #23
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Default Ventilation fix - Part 3 of 3

Result was not so awesome looking but it works good!!! Tried to get the temp warning on the ESC today in much warmer weather than last time I tried (with bad result). And it worked great! The motor got also much colder. Still quite warm but you can hold it for a little while. Same goes with the motor heat sink (which is thermal-glued to the motor).

So... guess I have reached the goal! Now it works great! The motor gets much warmer now when I changed PWM rate (from 8 to 14) but I get much more torque also! so this fix was necessary to prolong the life of my things.

I will try find some other mesh and do some nice spares with better curvature for next time.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:32 PM   #24
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Good, good.
I seen the default timing on the YGE is 18 deg, the maximum setable timing of Jive is 12, that should be one of the reasons the motors on YGE spins faster and make more heat.
Is possible to lower the timing?
You WILL loose power - as i gained power by setting my Jive from Auto to fixed 12 deg.
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:55 PM   #25
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on other ESC it's recommended to set it at 5 degree, according to mr Georges himself
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=397008

I have no idea about this with timing and pwm and stuff. But I think now when I have more power with same temp on the ESC, but warmer motor (still not critical). So should that be "better" setup. There is a auto timing on the YGE also but I have never tried it.

(there is lots of power now, I had problem to get the tail to hold, had to rise the precomp alot and still it kicks when I push the stick, but it kicks equal in both directions now )
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:38 AM   #26
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I have tested really all combinations of timing and freq. It had little effect on the temps in my YGE 160HV at these relatively low rpms, but sometimes noticeable effect on the smoothness of its running.

Also the difference between the YY 4525 UE and the Delta wound 4525 LE
in terms of ESC temp was small - in my case.

Improving ventilation - as you are doing now - has much more effect in my experience.

Unfortunately, the heatsink i am using is not as effective as while testing, probably due to the adhesive thermal tape I'm using now rather than thermal paste while testing.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:02 AM   #27
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great to hear that different settings doesn't change soo much.

yes thermal paste improves alot. I had my motor heat sink mounted w/o it before and now I use Zalman thermal epoxy and it was quite a bit difference.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:50 PM   #28
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Wanted to be able to remove the heat sink ...
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:41 PM   #29
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Oh my! That looks awful...

Couldn't you have drilled holes in the canopy instead?
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:06 AM   #30
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All you need is a small inlet with larger outlet, a large inlet does nothing if the air can't escape fast enough, also an open hole will create a ram air effect, whereas the mesh will disturb the airflow.
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:54 AM   #31
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So, i ordered YGE 160HV + ProgCard for quite a lot money (400 Euro).
I hope it will be worth it and will work fine with Vbar gov.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:35 AM   #32
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It arrived, i will have some questions for the users:
It have only German manual, is English somewhere downloadable?
The antispark feature is built in? No extra wire for charging the capacitors?
There is a Vbar adapter described in the manual, what is that for?
I guess i will need to learn somewhere how to use the ProgCard...
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:27 AM   #33
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I just read the manual. Not very much in it. . .
They say, that there is an anti spark feature, but they don't mention how it works or what you have to do.
Maybe they built in a slow-charge-timer for the capacitors.

Where did you read about the V-bar adapter?
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:56 AM   #34
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English manual:
http://elektrorc.com/article_info.ph...d3d24868ef231f

Anti-spark is built in somehow I think, I have a feeling it works because spark is very minimal.
V-bar adapter is for the rpm-output on HV only, if you want to use vbar-gov.
Prog card is easy to use, just read that manual. And don't connect a Prog Card II to HV
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:01 AM   #35
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Great, thanks for the link.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:17 PM   #36
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I received ProgCard III (3).
HV (8.4V) will do what to it?
The manual is "general" one; in the German printed one i received is some servo plugs drawing with description "Vbar adapter", but i guess some search in here on HF will clear things out (how to connect the progcard etc).
I look like a noob now; you know, new unknown stuff.
I need to figure out if i should remove the heatshrink and attach a cooling plate to it or not...
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:22 PM   #37
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the Prog Card III works for HV so no worries there!

have you seen the new heat sink, would be great I think:
http://www.rigidheli.com/Webwinkel-P...-assembly.html
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:29 PM   #38
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Great Danny.
I thought a friend can maybe make CNC alu mounting plate instead of the CF one, but that would face down to the batteries...
Or something like this...
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- TDR #1 sold (standart setup, 700+ flights)
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:46 PM   #39
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Is the voltage cutoff soft on the YGE?
Manual is not clear about that.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:51 PM   #40
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yes quite soft, on my 550E I can land when it cuts off
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