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Atom 6HV and 6HVU Compass Atom 6HV and 6HVU Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 04-25-2012, 11:45 PM   #1
360Wings
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Default Increasing the fun factor - 1st mods.

Ok after getting some flights under my belt on the 6hv i decided to make a couple of mods.

1. KBDD Lime dampers and spacers(currently using the stock delrin ring setup)
2. 11T pinion (currently using 10T stock)
3. CC ICE2 80HV (on order) (currently using stock HW70HV)

This setup should allow me to get governed hs of 2200rpm which should really get the 6hv moving... Im anticipating my flight times to take a dive, to around 3:30-4mins?

Hopefully my gensace 3300/30C 's will be up to the task..
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:24 AM   #2
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I recently swapped my HW 70hv for an Ice2 80 also and like it. Much softer start up, the gov is better, and on board logging. Down side is it's more adjustable and so requires a bit of tweaking to get the most out of it, hard not to be a bit concerned about a fire though.

Good luck with your mods!
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Old 04-29-2012, 01:06 PM   #3
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That's the setup I have except that mine is governed at 2300 HS (idle1) and 2400 (idle2). It moves I have 4 min flight time that uses 80% of the pack.
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:47 PM   #4
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nice.. i was thinking of getting KBDD Lime dampers soon iam happy with the stock pinion i dont fly with crazy head speeds
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:54 PM   #5
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I would not recommend the Lime green dampeners for non hard 3d pilots. Stock ones are fine.
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:25 AM   #6
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i agree ,i noticed a difference in my atom 500
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:32 AM   #7
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I liked the Blue ones a lot while I had them in. They give a great balance of both worlds (slow headpeeds with no bobble, but progressive enough that they stiffen up really well when pushed). A lot of it is in how much pre-loading you put on them. If you don't use any shims, it should be nice and slinky. One thin shim and it'll take away any play, but you'll notice you can't hit as low of heaspeeds without the wobble.

If you are going to be really low on headspeeds, either the yellow or regular green dampers would be best. Greens (*note, these are not the lime green TWEE types) are the softest and are good on 30 size machines and very docile 50's. Yellows are for sport flying and beginning 3D. The oranges are for 3D and are a little stiffer than the blue TWEE's, but not as progressive in feel. Kind of like an in-between of the blues and lime-greens.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:34 AM   #8
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I liked the Blue ones a lot while I had them in. They give a great balance of both worlds (slow headpeeds with no bobble, but progressive enough that they stiffen up really well when pushed). A lot of it is in how much pre-loading you put on them. If you don't use any shims, it should be nice and slinky. One thin shim and it'll take away any play, but you'll notice you can't hit as low of heaspeeds without the wobble.


If you are going to be really low on headspeeds, either the yellow or regular green dampers would be best. Greens (*note, these are not the lime green TWEE types) are the softest and are good on 30 size machines and very docile 50's. Yellows are for sport flying and beginning 3D. The oranges are for 3D and are a little stiffer than the blue TWEE's, but not as progressive in feel. Kind of like an in-between of the blues and lime-greens.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:13 PM   #9
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I just switched from Royal Blue TWEE to Lime TWEE. Not much difference for me. It just flies great.

I think I just lost a set of packs yesterday, though. I was flying my Nano Tech 25C 3000's. All of a sudden, I lost power. It didn't get to LVC, but just shribbled up the nads and they ascended back up inside. While intially having the urge to turn my head and cough, I landed instead.

The packs showed 3.5v/cell, and they began to swell a little bit. They have well over a 100 flights, so not disappointed, and frankly, rather run the higher C packs anyway.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:18 PM   #10
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i just got 4 of those pack from hk
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:28 PM   #11
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I decided rather than install everything at once to do it step by step..

Ive put the damper is first as that seemed to require the least work.. I had about 4-5 flights on the weekend with the new dampers in. I developed a savage tail wag at a certain h/s on spool up. If i stay on the ground the tail wag continues... If i lift off before or even whilst the tail is cracking the s$%ts it disappears immediately.. Im guessing this is ground resonance i have read about?

Feels like it has a bit more bite/pop now when doing big tail slides and hard stops on tics toc/rainbows..

Next on the list 11t pinion... Leaving the ESC/solder job for a rainy day..
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:37 PM   #12
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No, the ground resonance issue involves the cyclis, not the tail. I would say that it's your gyro that's wigging out on that part. Maybe try some thicker tape? Can't say I've ever had the issue myself, but it was prevalent on a lot of FB helis when you had the tape on incorrectly or didn't have a metal plate added (on nitros).
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:19 AM   #13
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Strange thing is its happens randomly. Im using 1 layer of the 3M outdoor tape that it recommended instead of the foam pads that come with the Bx..

If i can be bothered I might add another layer but its not a big issue as once in the air the tail behaves well..
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 360Wings View Post
Strange thing is its happens randomly. Im using 1 layer of the 3M outdoor tape that it recommended instead of the foam pads that come with the Bx..

If i can be bothered I might add another layer but its not a big issue as once in the air the tail behaves well..
It doesn't seem like its a foam issue but more of a mechanical or radio setup.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:42 AM   #15
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I discovered whilst changing the pinion that one of my boom supports was a bit loose.. I have a feeling that might be at fault. I also added another layer of tape..

Im hoping to get a few flights in tomorrow, provided the weather isnt too bad..
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:26 PM   #16
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Adding another layer might dampen the vibration a bit more, but it sounds like you have a bigger problem and covering it up won't help solve it completely.

A loose boom support won't really do anything. It might show that you have a vibration, similar to how you see it on the vertical fin, but it won't add to the problem or cause a problem of itself. How many times has the model been crashed and what all have you replaced on it? If it's new, how is the gear mesh looking and have you tried running it with no blades on at all? (including tail blades).
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:07 AM   #17
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Its had about 10-15 flights,no crashes and the kit was purchased new. No problems without blades on the bench.

I typically fly at reasonable h/s.. With the 10t no gov. i was using 92% throttle (flat curve). Now with the 11t im running 2150 gov.

The problem only occurs on the ground and since putting the lime damper in. If it starts shaking I just pop into the air and the shaking/wagging stops immediately. Other than the intermittent wagging/shaking of tail on takeoff, the tail is great.

My theory is that when im on the ground it is changing the frequency of a vibe that upsets tail. On leaving the ground the vibe frequency changes to a level/amplitude that doesnt effect the gyro. Why else would it disappear as soon as I lift off and fly smoothly without incident? Even changing between h/s 1800, 2050 and 2150 the tail is solid.. The only thing is if i land the wag doesnt return.. Its only on initial spool up.. weird..
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:09 AM   #18
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it's called "ground resonance."

I recommend to remove the 2nd layer of tape.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:09 PM   #19
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I initial suspected ground resonance as the cause. No issues yesterday with the tail on takeoff. With the ICE2 going on, rewiring, RJX tail going on and 2x gyro tape its hard to pin point a solution...

I just put 5 flights on the 6hv yesterday running the 11t @ 2250 h/s and was the most fun ive had the 6hv so far.. . It wasnt my intention to fly at 2250, i was hoping for 2150 it was only after checking the logs @ home i discovered the actual rpms.

I setup the gov. in the ICE2 using gov high which gives you and estimate throttle % for the desired h/s... The %'s it calculated ended up giving 100rpms higher for my Normal,IU1,IU2, hence the higher than expected rpms.

At 2250 with the ICE2 Gov. (v3.27) there is limited head room and there are certain times during the flight it is spending 1-3secs at full power.. I normally have the timer at 5mins bring the 3300s to 70% used... At 2250 it used ~80%... So i reduced my timer to 4:30..

With a reduction in h/s to the intended 2150 or maybe 2200 I might be able to get back to 5min flights and provide the gov. with enough headroom for the entire flight.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:36 PM   #20
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Some of the explanation could be an imbalance on your blades on spool-up. Basically that means your blades aren't perfectly straightened out and it has some lead/lag on the blades which causes a temporary imbalance which is perfectly normal. However, I'm not sure why it wouldn't cure itself once up to speed. Maybe something to do with the control loop or the fact that while you're on the ground the blades kick up enough turbulence to keep the effect going? On my machine, I've only seen it do the wobbly stuff a few times and there's no real ryhme or reason to it. Black magic as far as I can tell
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