What should be changed about the Goblin?

[Blink 182]

I would like a slightly taller normal head with phasing arms. Not a fan of swash driverless or very low heads.

Outside of that I like it, I really would like blank tail booms and canopies, Not a fan of canomod one bit hehe. :-)

[Arclight338]

Kevlar belts? why. Cogged belts by Gates are an industry standard. They drive everything from vacuum cleaners to blowers on 8-10K hp Nitro fueled Drag Race engines. In Nascar the connection between the camshaft and the crankshaft isn't a gear-its a BELT. IMO, don't fix something that doesn't need fixing.

As a former Logo 400/600 flyer the belt adjustment capability of the Goblin resolves any issues that should be of a concern.

Light and STIFF-and it FEEL's like it. As a hard core nitro flyer,this Goblin is well beyond my expectations.

If you haven't already toss the rubber bands, use NO velcro and grab some nice velcro straps with a vinyl backing.No nearly as convenient as a battery tray but with such a small fuselage you gotta make it work.

[rcflyerheli]

Originally Posted by G200driver

Great bird now...all it needs is a sliding batt tray like the 7HV..

I simply took a short piece of aluminum (thin 1 inch faces) and cut two of them, one for each side of the packs, taped the packs between the angles and put the velcro on the bottom. The angles are so thin they don't cause interference, and they add nearly no weight to the heli.

I just slide in a piece of 1/64 plywood where the packs go, slide the tray onto the plywood to get it located on my positioning marks, and slide the plywood guide out to let the velcro grab.
Then put the orings across the packs to hold them down. Piece of cake.

[Arclight338]

Originally Posted by rcflyerheli

I simply took a short piece of aluminum (thin 1 inch faces) and cut two of them, one for each side of the packs, taped the packs between the angles and put the velcro on the bottom. The angles are so thin they don't cause interference, and they add nearly no weight to the heli.

I just slide in a piece of 1/64 plywood where the packs go, slide the tray onto the plywood to get it located on my positioning marks, and slide the plywood guide out to let the velcro grab.
Then put the orings across the packs to hold them down. Piece of cake.

OUTSTANDING idea.Really.

[Blueabyss]

Arc the Kevlar belt on the logo is light years ahead of the goblin belt. I can not believe that no one has come out with one for the Goblin yet. The Kevlar one has much less resistance when turning than the regular one. Take 2 heli's of the same model side by side and one with kevlar and one regular. Spin the blades hard by hand and see which stops first.. It wont even be close.. My last logo had about 70 flights on it and I NEVER adjusted the belt. It never slipped slapped rang or anything. I not saying it is a necessity but I guarantee you it will last longer and preform better.
Two other things I would fix would be the one way bearing issue and the canopy.. I am convinced they have a jig built to drill the canopy nut holes and the jig is off.. One side never fits right.

Chris

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by Blink 182

I would like a slightly taller normal head with phasing arms. Not a fan of swash driverless or very low heads.

Outside of that I like it, I really would like blank tail booms and canopies, Not a fan of canomod one bit hehe. :-)

I as well would be in for a slightly higher head with phasing arms to the head vs the existing two arm show.

[pitchandyaw]

Originally Posted by OICU812

I as well would be in for a slightly higher head with phasing arms to the head vs the existing two arm show.

I believe you're a TDR man as well? The TDR design seems to have the advantages of both methods (though I have no direct experience with it). It looks really nice!

What's you experience with the TDR head design been?

What's the TDR mainshaft diameter? Do you think an actual TDR head could be made to work on the Goblin?

[djamgils]

I was hoping OICU812 was talking about a conventional swashdriver and not the TDR, GAUI, MSH design. I dont know how it works for the tdr (apparantly it does the trick) but I didnt like it on the protos and the Gaui also has problems with it.
In the end the best system is just the conventional swash driver imho.

[pitchandyaw]

Originally Posted by djamgils

I was hoping OICU812 was talking about a conventional swashdriver and not the TDR.....

...
In the end the best system is just the conventional swash driver imho.

I believe he was. I was just asking a bit of a side question.

The conventional design does seem to have very few disadvantages. Just an extra minute or two to get the phasing 100%

[EricW]

When the arms are connected on the side of the main hub e.g., phasing is always correct.

[TomC]

Originally Posted by OICU812

I as well would be in for a slightly higher head with phasing arms to the head vs the existing two arm show.

I recently built and maidened a mate's batch 1 goblin and there is no way I'd buy one until they offer this. Same goes with the new DCF Trex700e V3 btw.

Also want to see a 3rd motor bearing support to help ensure longer motor bearing life.

More conventional (springy) landing gear would also be nice imho.

Cheers,
TomC

[CeeveeSiN]

Originally Posted by TomC

I recently built and maidened a mate's batch 1 goblin and there is no way I'd buy one until they offer this. Same goes with the new DCF Trex700e V3 btw.

Also want to see a 3rd motor bearing support to help ensure longer motor bearing life.

More conventional (springy) landing gear would also be nice imho.

Cheers,
TomC

We have already been over the 3rd bearing block issue. this design does not need it.
the pulley design ensures less stress on the motor. it is designed like a centrifugal supercharger the cogged belt combined with the very short shaft leaves very little stress on the motor bearings.

As for the head still nothing wrong with it.. they have had no failures related to the head design unlike Align.

The few boomstrikes we had were due to improper boom clearance that was remedied at the factory in later runs of the boom.
other than that keep the blades tight and keep the dampeners healthy and there is nothing to worry about..

the lower head design helps increase aerodynamics and speed and agility.

700E DFC rocks too.. flies very nice as well.. converted all my birds to DFC.

[haq0901]

FWIW I've managed to develop play on the threaded pitch links in 70 flights which obviously caused the heli to feel weird in piro maneuvers b/c of the phase change that was constantly happening. The wear and tear on this design is unacceptable IMHO. I will surely be changing to the swash follower design.

[kjoer]

Originally Posted by haq0901

FWIW I've managed to develop play on the threaded pitch links in 70 flights which obviously caused the heli to feel weird in piro maneuvers b/c of the phase change that was constantly happening. The wear and tear on this design is unacceptable IMHO. I will surely be changing to the swash follower design.

The alloy left hand threaded parts of the pitch links? Come with play out of the box, designed that way. To allow the dampening to work. That's why they're supposed to be lubricated. Or do you mean something different?

[haq0901]

Originally Posted by kjoer

The alloy left hand threaded bits of the pitch links? Come with play out of the box, designed that way. To allow the dampening to work. That's why they're lubricated. Or do you mean something different?

Precisely the part i spoke of... What were they thinking with that design originally? Threads will obviously develop more play over time Mine did and had to replace the rods with new ones to remove the excess play. Lubricated and all.

[djamgils]

Originally Posted by CeeveeSiN

the lower head design helps increase aerodynamics and speed and agility.

yep but that has nothing to do with it being dfc just being low.
Here is a nice low conventional head http://www.minicopter.de/images/stor...lo_Bau/154.jpg

Originally Posted by haq0901

Precisely the part i spoke of... What were they thinking with that design originally? Threads will obviously develop more play over time Mine did and had to replace the rods with new ones to remove the excess play. Lubricated and all.

What is acceptable play when looking at phasing... With the goblin I saw last weekend I was amazed how much play it had, perhaps 2~5 degrees of phasing change in each direction. Is that normal for the goblin or has that one worn out already?
edit, lowered the phasing change after speaking to somebody else who saw it, guess my mind was exaggerating

[haq0901]

Originally Posted by djamgils

What is acceptable play when looking at phasing... With the goblin I saw last weekend I was amazed how much play it had, perhaps 5~10 degrees of phasing change in each direction. Is that normal for the goblin or has that one worn out already?

Well that's just it, for the past few years in all the other flybar less heads I've done there have been hardly ANY play but def not more than a degree or 2. 5-10 degrees is what I had before replacing them and I notice an improvement, but not so much as when I fly another Heli with perfect phase.

[popokatepetl]

The link should be screwed almost all the way in. Just keep let's say one or two turns.
In that case there will be enough play so the head dampers can work.