New Trex 600EFL Pro!

[gtrsteele]

I just bought a Align TREX 600EFL pro. As you may know, it has no eletronics or batteries. I am pretty set on the BeastX FBL controller as it seems to be a very user friendly and good unit. I also need the following and you would recomned:

1) cyclic servo (must be digital) Are the Align digital servos that come with the full kit any good?
2) tail servo (must be digital) I hear Futaba makes a great one
3) ESC
4) deadicated BEC for the RX (Spektrum AR8000 with a TM1000 or I may get the AR7200BX. I might even use my CPII as well)
5) batteries
6) battery charger

I can't wait to put her together. I know need Loctite. What other glues and lubes do I need?

[satgod]

the align 610's on cyclics are fine and the 650 on tail
futaba makes some nice tail servos but so does savox
depends on what you got to spend

castle pro bec its what I use on my 600efl
3300mah batteries are the sweet spot or just look for any 6s that does not exceep 155mm x 51mm x 51mm best kept to about 150mm x 49mm x 49mm
some align or other bearing grease, blue loctite, a little ca glue
1.5mm - 3mm hex bit screw drivers

[BuckAye]

Originally Posted by satgod

the align 610's on cyclics are fine and the 650 on tail
futaba makes some nice tail servos but so does savox
depends on what you got to spend

castle pro bec its what I use on my 600efl
3300mah batteries are the sweet spot or just look for any 6s that does not exceep 155mm x 51mm x 51mm best kept to about 150mm x 49mm x 49mm
some align or other bearing grease, blue loctite, a little ca glue
1.5mm - 3mm hex bit screw drivers

+1 to all of the above.

I really like the AR7200bx because you don't need all the wires between the receiver and the flybarless unit.

[gtrsteele]

Originally Posted by BuckAye

+1 to all of the above.

I really like the AR7200bx because you don't need all the wires between the receiver and the flybarless unit.

I already own the AR8000, so I will probally just get the stand alone unit. I wire a/v racks for a living so I am not too concerned about it. I like the challenge of making it look good. One of these days I'll post pics of my Blade 450 3D. It currently is using the AR8000 and TM1000 with a Copilot II.

[BuckAye]

Originally Posted by gtrsteele

I already own the AR8000, so I will probally just get the stand alone unit. I wire a/v racks for a living so I am not too concerned about it. I like the challenge of making it look good. One of these days I'll post pics of my Blade 450 3D. It currently is using the AR8000 and TM1000 with a Copilot II.

That's cool - enjoy the build!

[sherman89]

I am also looking at the 600 EFL and will go with the Align 610's and 650, I already have a Kontroniks Jive 80HV with BEC-----anyone out there that is using the Jive/bec and not an extra on-board rx pak? I will be using the AR7200bx for a rx/3g combo. My tx is the DX-10T which I am now using on several airplanes as well as a scale hughes 500 with 600 align mechanicals.

[gtrsteele]

How about the ESC and deadicated BEC? Batteries and charger?

[BuckAye]

I use the CC ICE 80 HV (Came with the kit) and the CC BEC Pro

I use turnigy batteries 3000 20-30 C - though those are fairly low for the 600. my next Packs will be at least 3300 and 30-35C

Be careful about the dimensions of the batteries - it's easy to buy ones that don't fit the tray if you're not careful.

I also use a HK quatro 4X6 as my charger with a 540W power supply. I tend to stick to chargers and batteries from Hobby King - some guys don't like HK but I have had good luck with their batteries and chargers (no puffing or failures so far).

Hope that helps!

[gtrsteele]

Thanks everyone.

[gtrsteele]

I got my new TREX 600 kit, but I need to get a motor for it. I know Scorpion is good. What else should I consider?

[Commodore8888]

Costs a tiny bit more, but the KDE 600XF is pretty stupid powerful. Fits without modification in the majority of helis. Mine fits in the 600EFL without issue, although I've noticed very slight rubbing with it and the old 600mx motor under extreme stress. Might be time to add some cross members to the chassis.

[gtrsteele]

How about the Quantum Outrunner motor (4125- 560KV)? Would this be a good motor for the 600?

[Commodore8888]

I've heard the quantum is a good motor, but the motor can outer diam is larger like the scorpion so it will require servo shimming in the 600EFL

[gtrsteele]

Originally Posted by Commodore8888

I've heard the quantum is a good motor, but the motor can outer diam is larger like the scorpion so it will require servo shimming in the 600EFL

What is servo shimming? The diameter is wider so I don't know if wold even fit inside the frame. Maybe I should just by the Align motor.

[jones007]

I have the Scorpion HKIII 4035-530, and I had to add some small washers between the rubber servo grommets and the plastic frame insert on the aft screws of the roll and pitch servos in order to tilt the servos a bit more to keep the motor from rubbing them. I used relatively thick nylon washers and now have about 1mm clearance between the servo and rotating motor can. I have not pulled the motor yet to see if the servos flex enough to mark up the servo case while under load. With the soft servo grommets, this is a possibility. Easy fix though if you want one of the larger motors.

[bpgoa]

Mine has the stock motor and it has bags of grunt... It's coupled to a hobbywing 120hv speed controller and uses nano tec 3300 45-90 c batteries which I don't look after particularly well ( first ones I bought have puffed but they now have 100+ cycles and are a year old kept constantly charged ) the headspeed stays pretty constant over a 5 min hard 3d flight... I have just bought some 65c versions to try but not put them on yet.

I can also recommend buying a few packs of battery trays and using 25mm fibreglass packing tape to mount them in pairs. Forever...

To charge them I use an icharger 3010b and parallel charge board to charge 3 sets at a time..(6 x 6 packs). This will save your sanity charging.

For fbl I use a Vbar and have the DFC head, solid dampers and radix 600 v1 non flybarless blades. I love the pop.

The main bearing blocks have been changed to thrust race units, and the tail hub and blade grips to the v2 ... All win ...no bling..

Servos... Jr8717 on the cyclic and align 650 on the tail... All work well.. as do standard align( buy the savox branded versions they are cheaper)

Change the radial bearings in the blade grips on a regular basis as they wear real quick..

You will love this bird if you are a screaming turbo nutter..

Ade

[gtrsteele]

Originally Posted by bpgoa

Mine has the stock motor and it has bags of grunt... It's coupled to a hobbywing 120hv speed controller and uses nano tec 3300 45-90 c batteries which I don't look after particularly well ( first ones I bought have puffed but they now have 100+ cycles and are a year old kept constantly charged ) the headspeed stays pretty constant over a 5 min hard 3d flight... I have just bought some 65c versions to try but not put them on yet.

I can also recommend buying a few packs of battery trays and using 25mm fibreglass packing tape to mount them in pairs. Forever...

To charge them I use an icharger 3010b and parallel charge board to charge 3 sets at a time..(6 x 6 packs). This will save your sanity charging.

For fbl I use a Vbar and have the DFC head, solid dampers and radix 600 v1 non flybarless blades. I love the pop.

The main bearing blocks have been changed to thrust race units, and the tail hub and blade grips to the v2 ... All win ...no bling..

Servos... Jr8717 on the cyclic and align 650 on the tail... All work well.. as do standard align( buy the savox branded versions they are cheaper)

Change the radial bearings in the blade grips on a regular basis as they wear real quick..

You will love this bird if you are a screaming turbo nutter..

Ade

Is the DFC head that much better than the stock? I can't do any 3D yet so it's basic flying right now. Would I benefit with the DFC head?

[bpgoa]

It's fantastic with the stock head. I bought the DFC head to try and have just stuck with it. TBH I need to do further set up as I can't get the Heli to tick tock around the centre of the Heli since fitting and need to get back into the vbar sw.

If your not into hard 3d and just flying it around then fit the cheapest kit you can get away with to get through the first few crashes. Savox servos ( align servos are just rebadged Savox and more expensive )

Standard motor is so powerful. No need to change.

Standard align 3G blades also work.

Please don't try and slow the head down. It's just not designed to run slow and you will be forever unhappy and spend more time fiddling than flying.

If you have cash burning a hole. Blow it on a vbar and batteries.

You will never regret the extra spent on a vbar. ( but make sure you upgrade to pro)

By the time you are putting kit like the DFC head on you will know why your doing it and understand the pit falls.

Good luck.

A.

[Helis4me]

So,is there a noticeable difference between the DFC head and the stock head?
Is it really worth the upgrade?
Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bpgoa]

Originally Posted by Helis4me

So,is there a noticeable difference between the DFC head and the stock head?
Is it really worth the upgrade?
Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes there is.

The Heli is faster and reacts differently.

Jury is out if it's better until I can get the control movements back around the c of g.