450 pro stock esc for 250 dfc

[fr0stbyt3]

hi guys,

Would this be a good idea? It doesn't really seem to be much bigger, and the specs are way better. I have a spare just sitting here in the not-being-used-right-now box...

If yes on the first question, would it be a good idea to solder on the plugs of EC3 connectors to motor and esc? The stock plugs are really tiny...

Thanks in advance!

[terrabit]

Two words: too heavy.

[fr0stbyt3]

Originally Posted by terrabit

Two words: too heavy.

10g difference?

Or are you talking about the ec3 connectors vs the regular ones now?

[terrabit]

Suit yourself but, 10g is > 1/3oz. Way more than I'm willing to add to my 250. Disc loading is bad enough as is.

[JoeW]

I'd take a 10g hit for the right reasons.

If that were the newer style 35A that runs the 6A BEC (BL35X) I'd consider it.

If you're in the 300g range, an extra 10g isn't going to hurt.

[youturnjason]

Don't know if theres a new model but my 35x is only 2A and doesn't have a selectable voltage. I know the 35p is 3a and has 5v-6v adjustment but haven't heard of a 6A one.

[JoeW]

Meant 6V

My bad.

At 5V, 2A is on the light side, but at 6V it is just Ok


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[fr0stbyt3]

It's the BL35X, yes.

I'll have a look if I can solder the tiny motor connections from the 15A one onto the 35A one in a nice way. I was thinking as well that the 3A BEC was a big advantage, while adding just 10g to the total weight...

Thanks for the replies guys.

Btw, what would you run the BEC voltage at? 5.5 or 6?

[jonbailie]

Does the new 250 really need a larger esc? The stock one seems to put out enough juice for the stock motor/electronics setup.

Did your stock esc go bad, or do you just want to try something else, maybe something you've already got on hand? If you have to purchase something, there's the kontronik mini jazz, or the yge 18amp esc. If you need something cheaper, the stock 15amp esc does the job fairly well.

I just don't think that the esc is badly suited for this helicopter, unless you're having a problem with it of course.


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[JoeW]

If I was going to replace the stock with anything, I'd use the CC 25.

The only thing I'd improve on it is to make the BEC 6V instead of 5.

The 3A linear BEC is easily able to handle a FBL controller and some heftier servos.

And once you use their 'set RPM' gov mode... You'll wonder why you'd ever use anything else


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[fr0stbyt3]

I have the 35X here, sitting in a not-being-used-parts box, so that's why I was thinking of it, reading a lot of threads (here mainly... ) of people having shutdowns with the stock esc...

So far, I haven't had a single issue with any of the stock Align electronics on any of my machines...

So I was thinking that maybe I'd be better off putting the 35A on the 250 dfc when building it, instead of the stock 15A one with the 2A BEC.

It's not really that much bigger, so fitting it shouldn't be too big of an issue, I think.

Don't really want to spend more money unless it's really needed, so at this time, having the 35A one on hand, I'm not really leaning towards the YGE, CC or Kontronik...

[terrabit]

I'm not interested in trying to convince anyone of anything. But I will say this: once you've flown a ship with light discloading such as a Logo 600 or a Protos and acquired a taste for the way it feels in flight, it is difficult to be content with anything at the opposite end of the spectrum. You don't have to believe me, I'm okay with that. And, I have had Align electronics fail in flight on multiple occasions, including esc's, servos, and a fbl controller. I've been a longtime user of Kontronik, vbar, JR and Futaba stuff for one reason - they have never failed on me. This isn't such a big concern with something as small as a 250, hence the 3GX, YGE and MKS stuff, but as size increases so does risk - exponentially. I will say that the CC esc on my Protos has served me well. The governor is pretty good though it does require more headroom to operate effectively than Kontronic. Haven't made up my kind about the YGE yet. These are of course just my opinions based on my experience. As Finless would say, your mileage may vary.

[tworst]

I am looking at getting the CC Pheonix 25 but want to know the amp rating of the BEC first. I scoured the net and got conflicting info. So I sent an email to CC:

I want to buy one of these but I don't know how to tell if it is the 1.5A or 3A BEC version (BEFORE I BUY IT). Most websites don't say which version it is. I found 1 site that did, and it even gave a part number, CSEPHX25. I do a search on that part number, find another website and it says its only 1.5A BEC? So is the CSEPHX25 a 1.5A BEC or 3.0A BEC? If the CSEPHX25 is the 1.5A BEC version, what is the part number for the 3A BEC version? This is very frustrating. I have to spend hours trying to find part numbers and specifications and when I do find it, it is all conflicting. I even checked the CC website and you don't even state a spec for the BEC amp rating at all. The BEC rating is extremely important for my application, please advise.

This really does piss me off. It should be simple. X part number = Y specs. Thats it. CSEPHX25-1.5 or CSEPHX25-3.0. How hard could it be? Anyway, I go to the CC website to get the correct information. They don't even list the damn BEC amp rating! I dig deeper in some FAQ. Here is how you tell: find this little 3-prong device on the back side and if one leg goes to the + power input, its a 3A. So I guess I will have to find a website with fantastic pictures of the back side of the ESC. Un f----ing believeable.

[JoeW]

Unless you're buying really old stock, it's 3A. The 1.5 version hasn't been produced in a couple of years.

There aren't 2 part numbers because there aren't 2 different parts.

3A is sufficient. I only wish it was 3A @ 6V.

Don't let people tell you that the sticker colour has anything to do with it either. That may have been the case when they were initially switching to 3A nut not any more.

[tworst]

Thanks for the info. But how do you know its not 3 amps at 6V? Or for that matter the amps at any voltage? How would I know if I am buying old stock? If I had a unique part number, I would know. Maybe I am actually looking for the old version, how would I find it?


I still think that at least at one time there were 2 different parts. There should be 2 different part numbers. What happens when they go to 3.5 amps, then 4 amps, etc. Same situation all over again. CC, please make it easy for us. X part number = Y specs. All confusion is eliminated, forever. Also, I can't pay for any of this stuff with an old version of money.

[tworst]

Here is what I have been able to find out about the CC 25 specs.

The BEC is fixed at 5V. The peak current ratings of the BEC are:

2A peak with 3s pack.
3A peak with 2s pack.

Notice here the rating is in peak amps, not continuous. I have not got those specs yet. So, if you are running your 250 with a 3s pack, the BEC peak current is 2A. This means it can sustain currents up to 2A for some uspecified period of time. Its continuous current rating will be somewhat less - manybe around 1.5A. This means you could draw 1.5A continuously with no issues. If anybody out there knows the continuous current rating or the peak current withstand time, please inform us.