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| mCP X Brushless Mods Blade Micro CPx Brushless Mods and Conversions |
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#1 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SlowCal
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I just got another brushless M5 motor for another stock frame today.
My first motor was normal, no endplay and normal length 8T pinion. My second motor (from same source) has 2.5mm of rotor play as far as the shaft the pinion is mounted to and included a 5mm long pinion to make up for the slack! Does this sound normal to you guys? Seems like all or MOST of the play should be properly pressed out of the motor shaft.. instead of using extra long pinion to make up for excessive motor shaft play. they also used several washer to make the effect less as well! There would have been more play.I suppose I can try and fix it but it's likely I may ruin the tiny motor. Does anyone know if a bit of heat will let the M5 motor can slip off the shaft so I can rebuild the motor? Camera battery is charging, I'll take pics when I can..
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#2 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SlowCal
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Tons of play, added washers behind the E-clip, extra long pinion.
(They should have just got the shaft the correct length or pushed it all the way together) I will have to rebuild this. ![]() Motor can will slide half way off the stator. Could be almost enough for a bearing to fall out. ![]() Watch out for this stuff. Inefficiency in the name of production speed.
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#3 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SlowCal
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If they would take the time to press the motor together correctly, they wouln't need extra washers and long pinions.
I don't have a pinion puller so I could not remove the extra washer. Had to leave it. But I did press the motor together more to rid of all that play. Before the press, the shaft end was INSIDE the motor can about 1m. Now it hangs OUTSIDE the motor can 1.5-2mm. I could reduce it more if I could remove the extra washers. IMO, stacking extra washers between bearings and the shaft may cause some harmonic vibrations in a brushless motor. But I could be wrong. ![]() Much better. ![]()
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#4 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Haralson County GA USA
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Length of the shaft or how far it is pressed in has no effect on this end play. A
C clip,pressed on spacer / pinion can be used to adjust it it really bothers you but in fact it makes no difference at all. The magnets will hold the bell in place .The C clip a wheel collar etc. is really only needed on a BL outrunner motor's shaft when a tractor prop. is being used on the other end of the motor as it would try an pull the bell off off the stator. |
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#5 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: On the lamb...
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Yup. My M5 has been like this from day 1. Like EDF said, the magnets hold the bell down fine.
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#6 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: los angeles
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Mine is also the same. Over 1500 flights and no issues with alignment.
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#7 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SlowCal
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that's cool,
I just like mine assembled my way. I have a surprise for you guys soon too. Hang in there..
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#8 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Bay area, CA
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The early M5 did not have E clips at all. The later one does.
However, after my friend's M5 have a bending shaft. Now I remove all the E clips on the new M5. The magnet can hold the bell into place. In the unlucky case when you smash the heli into the ground and landing skid fly off. The bell can move up wards actually make it less likely to bend. Just one theory. I fly my crash heli M5 without E clips, haven't have any problem with it.
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#9 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SlowCal
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Yeah my first M5 was almost like this.
this one is just worse. Surprised me all the end play. Never seen motors built that way on purpose. No big deal really just when I opened the bag and saw all the play on the shaft was more than my last one. Can't wait until my next project is done to show off..
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